Verona

Verona

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Pam and Carol's Excellent Adventure in Havana

Ramses, me, Omilay
Well comrades, this was indeed a very excellent adventure sprinkled with a real Cuban experience.  The doctor had a smooth transition into Cuba the last two times we visited but this time he chose not to go so Carol, my friend and colleague from work was my travel partner.
As one may expect, Havana is bloody hot in July.  I have a rather high tolerance for heat and extreme sweating and can still walk farther than most humans under these conditions.  But I have to say that Carol was a trooper with her very WASP skin and low tolerance for such extreme heat.  I took more cabs this time since no one but the doctor can keep up with me but since we rode in cabs designated for Cubans, it didn't cost us very much.  Now let me explain why this could have been a disaster trip but was saved by the kindness of our new Cuban friends.

Casa Particulars

Casa Particulars are homes with space for travellers and shared with Cuban owners.  One can rent an apartment, a shared space, or an entire house if one so desires.  I decided that since I have had the hotel experience in Havana, I would now try a casa.  For me, I would prefer to stay in Miramar or Vedado, but since it was Carol's first time in Cuba, I thought we should stay in the centre of town so she could see all of the UNESCO heritage sites.
I searched the net and contacted a number of companies that seemed reputable and finally settled on cuba-particular.com.  I dealt with a man by the name of Felix who arranged our stay.  The photos of the apartment looked very nice and I was assured of the following:  taxi pick-up and drop-off at the airport, English speaking hostess, a balcony with a  sea view, beverages awaiting our arrival, two full bedrooms with adjoining bathrooms, and a hairdryer so I wouldn't have to shlep mine across the ocean.
Once we were through customs in Havana, we were greeted by Aleida and Vladimir.  Vladimir was our driver and his wife Aleida chose to come along for the ride - fate was on our side.  They are the sweetest and most caring people on the planet.  Aleida spent some of her formative years in Canada and spoke English perfectly.  She works for a Canadian company in Havana and was well-versed in Canadiana.  How lucky can one Canuck be?  Once we arrived at the casa, I did not like the look of the area.  The apartment was lovely and clean but there was a problem, actually many problems - the list above was not fulfilled.  There was only one bedroom, the hostess Maria did not speak English (and my Spanish is not good enough to explain my displeasure), the drinks we ordered were given to other guests and we could not even get a glass of water, and although there was a view of the sea, there was no balcony.  I didn't even bother to ask about the hairdryer.  
I spoke with Felix and informed him of my displeasure with this whole experience and that he was not truthful with me.  He said that there would be two bedrooms in the morning and that Carol and I would have to share a room tonight.  NOT HAPPENING!  Thank goodness Aleida had left her cell phone number with me and I called her immediately and explained the situation.  I asked her to find us rooms at the Riviera Hotel since it is clean and inexpensive.  Once she had secured lodging for us, she and Vladimir picked us up and took us to the Riviera.  She escorted us in and spoke with the desk clerk who assured us that we could check again in the morning for available rooms.  Well, we were able to stay at the Riviera all week and loved it.  Bottom line:  DO NOT USE THIS CASA SITE

Riviera Hotel


I love this hotel.  Sure the rugs are worn but the rooms are clean and have an outstanding view of the sea.  The hotel has not changed at all since gangster Meyer Lansky had it built in 1956.  The colourful Orb which is visible outside was once the casino.  I assume there is still an entrance into this but I didn't ask.  Our cost was 44.00 CUC a night and the rooms were clean with marble bathrooms.  Don't expect much from the free breakfast in the morning.  There is a lot of food but most of it is not very good.  The ready-to-order omelettes are good and the hotcakes are edible.  Occasionally the bread is fresh and the fruit is firm but it's free and it's Cuba so don't sweat the small stuff.  The staff is very friendly and accommodating and the hotel is so funky that I can overlook last week's black beans for breakfast.
There is a large salt water pool and guests can invite friends to join them at the pool for  the day for a mere 15.00 CUC.  This includes lunch.  You will have to supply your room towels for your guests but this was a great way to treat our Cuban friends who also need an escape from the heat.
Ramses and Omilay at the Riviera Hotel pool.
The location of this hotel is perfect.  One can walk along the Malecon and find jazz clubs next door,  outdoor restaurants or outstanding restaurants about 20 minutes away (by foot).   The cab ride downtown is only 5.00 CUC or a fraction of that if you are fortunate enough to ride with Cuban friends in the fifties vintage cars.
If you are not a person who invites multiculturalism, this hotel is not for you.  You will be the only Yumas in the hotel.  All of the guests are from Mexico and South America which also means you will be the only woman at the pool in a one-piece suit who actually takes off her jewelry and swims lengths instead of making out with a boyfriend.  If I weren't menopausal, I may have been in danger of pregnancy from all of the activity going on under the water.

Bed Art

You cannot simply apply to be a maid in Cuba.  Oh, no!  I didn't realize this until Humberto informed me that one cannot just be a maid in Cuba.  One must attend maid training at Hotel Sevilla in La Habana Centrale.  There, one will train in all aspects of maidery (I just made that up) including bed art.  Yes folks, the Cubans are the most creative people on the planet and this extends to bed art.  What is bed art, you ask?  Well, your towels, bedding, room accoutrements, even your clothing can and will be used in bed art.  This is designed to wow you and increase the tips.  I mean, come on, how can you not leave at least one CUC when your bed has been turned into a masterpiece?  Here is an example of outstanding bed art:
bed art with my fedora
The only problem with bed art is that one must remake their bed every night because the bedding has been used to create Señor and Señora swans. I must say though, the photo above captures the most outstanding bed art I have encountered in Cuba thus far.  She wins maid of the year!

Banks and Cadecas
Another part of the Cuban experience is dealing with the constant change in rules and regulations that seem to happen on a whim.  Since I was just in Cuba in March, I didn't think that changing money would be a problem.  In the past, we simply went to the cadeca in the hotel lobby and changed our money.  End!  No, no, no folks - this is Cuba and as my friend Humberto says, "it's crazy".  Well, changing money and getting money off of my credit card was an all-day fiasco that ate into a planned outing with Humberto, his wife Yanaisa, and daughter Jennifer.  Many of the cadecas in the hotels are now closed or will only exchange funds for guests of that particular hotel.  Some of the banks would not comply if you did not have a visa even though Canada does not issue visas.  Some bank machines would not take any of our cards.  Needless to say, I was near tears and was ruining an otherwise lovely day with friends.  Finally, I found a bank on Obispo that would exchange Canadian money AND take money from my Mastercard (the reason I list the type of card is that this card is NOT the credit card of choice in Cuban banks).  I took out more than I needed so I wouldn't have to deal with this again.  
Thanks Fidel and Raul - another bonehead move.  This really encourages tourist dollars that help to rebuild this poor country (insert sarcasm here).
Here is the location of the bank that you must use:
257 Calle Obispo

The many uses for bananas and coconuts

Is there anything the Cubans cannot do?  When one is deprived of worldly goods, creativity kicks in and delightful creations emerge (bed art?).  It is an understatement to say that I love bananas and coconuts and to find various ways to prepare them is manna from heaven for this maven.  I had coconut ice cream served in a coconut shell, I drank coconut milk out of a coconut shell that had been opened with a machete.
Opening coconut with machete.
I even had home made pina coladas made by Omilay at a dinner in her boyfriend Ramses' apartment. Yum and double Yum.
This same ingenuity extends to bananas.  What I didn't realize is that there are different varieties of bananas and coconuts and each is used for a wide array of delicacies.  Omilay fried soft bananas and hard bananas for chips.  Each was delicious.  Here are Omilay and Ramses with the delicious Cuban feast.

Omilay told me how to make Pina Coladas from scratch and I will attempt it next week.  Of course, my tasteless Canadian ingredients will not have the flavour or punch of real Cuban fruit and sugar but such is life.  Here is Omilay's recipe for the main ingredients of the Pina Colada base:

Fresh coconut
One cup of sugar
vanilla
water (not much)
Cook over the stove until the mixture thickens.  Add more water if it is too thick.  Once it is fully cooked, remove from the stove and let cool.  Place a bit of this mixture into a blender with fresh coconut milk, pineapple juice, and rum.  (She may have used ice since it was cold).  Pour into individual glasses and sprinkle fresh cinnamon on top.  

We had Pina Coladas on the terrace of the Hotel National one day and not only were they expensive but didn't compare with Omilay's homemade concoctions.  I have never tasted anything so delicious other than her meal which included flan for dessert.  This meal was so extraordinary that I told her she should open her own restaurant.  Brava my little dragonfly!  BTW:  I will never complain about the size of my kitchen ever again after witnessing how Omilay can create such a lovely meal in a kitchen the size of a closet.  What a girl!

Conner Gorry is a bloody genius and her app is a must!

I discovered Conner by accident.  I was attempting to learn more about Cuba and stumbled across a great online magazine called, Cuba Absolutely.  While reading this mag, I saw an advertisement in the sidebar for Conner's blog: http://hereishavana.wordpress.com.  Conner is a New Yorker who married a Cuban and chooses to live in Havana.  She is a travel writer and writes for Lonely Planet as well as other travel books.  Not only are her insights interesting and informative, she has developed an app for Havana called Havana Good Time that quickly became my best friend while visiting last week.  This app lists restaurants, casa particulars (wish I had this app before I booked my ill-fated casa), museums, bars, music, and the list goes on and on.  All of her recommendations are spot on and the best part?  It works without internet AND each recommendation has photos and an interactive map with a GPS blue bouncing ball that led us to all of our destinations.  I LOVE CONNER GORRY and you will too if you have this app.

Restaurants recommended by Conner that are amazing.

Since we were now staying in Vedado, we needed restaurants that were close by and in walking distance.  With our handy-dandy app, we discovered a number of good places to eat that were within our budget.

La Fuente
Calle 13 between Calles F & G
This little outdoor boîte is cosy and an easy walk from the Riviera.  The food is great, portions large and service is friendly and quick.  We ate here twice, once with Ramses and Omilay.  Omilay loves the food here and her criteria is not only based on taste - the large portions fill a tiny girl who most likely eats once a day.  We took our Cuban kids to another fav of mine downtown but since I don't gauge my star recommendations on quantity, Omilay did not like this place due to the smallish portions.  I can certainly understand why Cubans would have a different Zagat rating than North Americans who don't eat at McDonald's.
Le Chansonnier
Calle J #257 between Linea and 15
Where do I begin touting the overall excellence of this restaurant?  For those who still believe you cannot get a good meal in Cuba, think again.  This restaurant could compete with any high end establishment in any major city.  Let me begin with the decor.
Once you approach this beautiful old home, you assume by the tired exterior that it will not be anything special inside but get ready to be fooled.  Owners Hector and Carlos and partner Laura (an interior designer) have created a breathtaking space within the bones of a stunning beaux arts home.  This home belongs to Hector's family and he chose to open a paladar on the ground floor of it.  The high ceilings, marble columns, stunning chandeliers and gorgeous windows set the stage for great art and furniture by Cuban artists.  All of the furniture has been made by a local artisan and the paintings have been carefully selected by top Cuban artists to enhance the overall experience before one even tastes the heavenly food. The  piece de resistance is the back wall that houses the washrooms (which are more modern than 5 star Hotel Parque Centrale).  A local metal sculptor, assisted by Carlos created a environmental piece on the back wall using scrap metal.  The colours, textures, and placement of each piece was meticulously selected by the artist.  The final result which took a month to create is the perfect complement to this extraordinary space.
Now the food:  Once one has absorbed the beauty of this space, the next phase begins with the exciting menu that is fusion French/Cuban.  The owners also have another restaurant in Paris of the same name (10th arrondissement); hence, the combination of ingredients and flavours.  I am aware that it is very difficult to obtain fresh ingredients in Cuba so I have no idea how they find such beautiful, fresh food, but who cares?  Every dish is a work of art from execution to final mouthful.  Rachel Ray would definitely rate this restaurant a triple Yum.
We visited this restaurant twice and took our other Cuban friends, Humberto, Yanaisa, and 13 year old Jennifer (the best behaved child on the planet) here on our last night.  I reserved the private dining room for us and my darling friends were treated like royalty by the waiter and Hector.  Humberto and his family do not normally eat in places such as this and I was delighted to have the opportunity to treat them to something so perfectly wonderful in their own city.  Here are a couple of dark photos of the back wall metal installation and the main dining room.  My photos do not do justice to this beautiful
space.
Main dining room
Spicy duck

Final parting words

Well, all good things must come to an end and Carol and I had to say Adios to Havana.  We summed up our few misfortunes by saying, "it's all part of the Cuban experience" followed by a Cristal on the breezy patio of our hotel while gazing out at the sea.  I look forward to my next Havana adventure and visiting with my friends.

Ramses, Carol, Omilay

I was fortunate enough to see how Cubans live by visiting both Ramses in his apartment and Omilay's family in their lovely home which is surrounded by guava trees.  The Cubans do struggle but are so accustomed to this way of life that it is just a normal part of each day in Cuba.
Ramses used to live with his grandmother in a lovely neighbourhood in Vedado.  Since his parents, (like many Cuban families), live in other countries, he resided with his grandmother in her large home which also served as a casa particular.  Once she died and he could not afford the license to run the casa particular, the government took his home and left him homeless.  He has forged a good life for himself in his tiny but sweet little apartment in La Habana Vieja but how does one reconcile their misfortune when their government takes rather than provides?  Tourist dollars are flooding the country and this money is renovating many dilapidated buildings but most homes are still very unsafe.  This year alone, there have been 45 deaths in Havana due to unsafe housing conditions.
If each Canadian supported one Cuban or Cuban family by paying a cell phone bill or setting up a bank account and sending money, or helping to network for employment, more Cubans could live a decent life.  However, the downside of this is there are some Cubans who are supported by relatives overseas and choose not to work.
My friends Humberto and Yanaisa are outstanding parents.  Can you imagine how much it hurts them to see Jennifer leave for school without breakfast?  Most evenings, the only meal Yanaisa can make for her family consists of rice and beans and when the beans run out, rice is the only option.
When I see the faces of this beautiful, hardworking family, I wish there was more I could do for them.  One can only hope that the future for Cubans will be good and Jennifer will have all of the options available to Canadians girls her age.  I wish prosperity and long life to my beloved Cubans.
Humberto, Jennifer, Yanaisa












Monday, July 9, 2012

Return to Havana

This March, the doctor and I decided to return to our new favourite city, Havana.  This vibrant, architectural gem in the middle of the Caribbean kept calling me and I knew that one visit would never be enough.
During this trip, we decided to stay in a different part of town so we could explore new territory.  We found a lovely hotel called The Quinta Avendia in the opulent neighbourhood of Miramar which at one time, was the area where wealthy inhabitants of La Habana Viejo traveled to escape the heat of downtown.  This beautiful section is a mere 10 minute taxi ride from downtown but is quiet and has a completely different vibe from the hub of the original part of the city which attracts the majority of the tourists.
The view from our hotel balcony of the cathedral and the sea
One of many mansions in Miramar
Miramar is dotted with an abundance of mansions that are now home to embassies, ambassadors, as well as Cubans who chose not to leave the country after the Revolution.  Despite popular belief, Cubans of means who chose to stay held onto their homes and money.  Unfortunately, there was no way for the fortune to continue to build so the money became necessary for daily life.  Some of the homes look faded due to diminished finances but many have retained their original beauty and are breathtaking inside.
While La Habana Viejo and La Habana Centrale are buzzing with activity, Miramar is quiet and serene.  One can see joggers, dog walkers with pampered pets, business people who work in the area, large grocery stores, new and faded hotels on the waterfront, outdoor shopping malls that are very nice, small local restaurants and paladares (restaurants housed in homes and run by families), local beaches for Cubans, beautiful parks, cathedrals, and great architecture as far as the eye can see.
From these few paragraphs, it is obvious that I love this area and will continue to stay here in the future.  All of the hotels in the area offer a lovely breakfast which is included in the price and shuttle service to downtown.  In addition, the pools are never busy because this area is frequented by business people who are working during the day; hence, I had the pool all to myself.  Heaven!
Prior to our trip, the doctor purchased a great book:  Great Houses of Havana - A Century of Cuban Style by Hermes Mallea.  We discovered a number of beautiful buildings we did not see during our first trip to Havana.  We wrote down the addresses of our selected homes and public buildings and went searching for them once we reached our tropical paradise.
Palacio de los Matrimonios

One building in particular, Palacio de los Matrimonios is located on the Prado in La Habana Centrale.  Originally, it was the first casino in Havana and is now used as the main location for marriages.  We were fortunate enough to see a wedding while we were there.  It appears that couples arrive in the middle of the day, perhaps during a lunch hour from work in their wedding attire.  Close family and friends meet them in the entrance after which, the wedding march begins, an official appears and boom!  The wedding is finite.
However, before we watched a Cuban wedding, we were taken on a tour of the building by Humberto Martinez Lopez our new Cuban friend and in my opinion, the smartest man in Havana.  Humberto escorted us around this magnificent building while giving us a wealth of information about Havana.  He told us about the renovations occurring downtown which have been spearheaded by Eusebio Leal Spendler (more about him later).  From the roof top of this palacio, Humberto waved his magic wand and made the city come alive for us in a very personal way.  He loves his home and his country and speaks about Havana which such awe and affection.  We exchanged email addresses with him so I could continue to ask questions about this beautiful city.
Humberto
Let me tell you a bit about Spendler.  He is the mastermind behind the recent renovations that are taking place in the downtown core of Havana.  In one year, the doctor and I saw a significant improvement. Spendler and his crew have renovated over 300 historic buildings and the work in ongoing.  Castro has given Spendler carte blanche to use tourist dollars for this renovation project.  Downtown Havana has been designated as a UNESCO heritage site which will ensure that these extraordinary buildings are restored rather than replaced. In addition, many Cubans are working as part of this project.  Occasionally, Castro makes a sound decision.
A former Spanish social club now an art museum
The doctor and I noticed more Americans this time.  At our hotel in particular, there were American university students with their professors who were there to observe companies in Cuba.  I was interested in listening to the observations of these Americans which of course, differed from what they have been told about Cuba.  When will the U.S. wake up and finally allow American dollars into this lovely place?  The Cubans deserve a break!
Since I teach Holocaust Studies, we continued on our search for synagogues in Havana.  Last time, if your recall, we visited a very old Orthodox synagogue in Old Havana.  This time, we discovered a beautiful shul as well as a Jewish cultural centre that had a Holocaust museum inside.  The guide was very sweet and gave us a tour of the museum, social hall and the tiny shul inside this new building.  Religion is once again flourishing in Cuba and the synagogues and churches are thriving.
Inside the Holocaust museum


Apart from all of the great architecture, much improved cuisine, beautiful art and music, one must appreciate the beauty of the Cuban spirit.  Cubans are very special indeed.  I recall Humberto telling me, "we are nice, but we are not stupid."  How true.  Cubans are kind and generous but they will let you know if they want something or in need.  Their needs are many and they are not shy about letting wealthy North Americans know it (they assume we all are wealthy because they have so little).

One evening I finally was able to convince the doctor to attend a performance at the Tropicana.  Sure, it's touristy, but it is also historical and I felt that it was part of Cuban culture in Havana that must be experienced at least once.  Well, it was terrific.  The shows are held in a large space outdoors that holds a thousand guests.  The costumes, dancing, singing and staging has remained the same since 1939 and was worth the price of the ticket.  Go once and have fun.
Omilay
Across the street from our hotel was a darling little paladar called Santana.  It was there we met our new Cuban daughter, Omilay.  She was our waitress during the many evenings we ate dinner there and literally stole our hearts.  She is the main reason I am returning to Havana tomorrow during the summer heat.  I also struck up a friendship with Humberto and his family and will be visiting them as well.  The doctor chose not to accompany me on this summer trip so I am traveling with my friend Carol.  By the way, the food at Santana is really good and the prices are fair.  Unfortunately, Omilay is no longer there and is spending her time concentrating on her studies in English.  But you will still have a good time at this delightful little place on Quinta Avenida.

Another charming little restaurant down the street from the corner of Quinta and the ugly Russian embassy is an outdoor restaurant frequented by Cubans.  I cannot recall the name of it but you cannot miss it.  The food is good, cheap, and the atmosphere is fun.  If I see it again on this trip, I will include the name.
Russian Embassy

Check out the broken glass embedded in the wall.  Don't mess with the Russians!
One day, we decided to walk up Quinta Avenida in the opposite direction (away from downtown).  We discovered a new neighbourhood with more charming buildings and outdoor food stalls.  We found the Yacht Club which is tired looking but still majestic and is positioned next to a small beach that is used by Cubans.  Next to the beach is an amusement park that is a fairly good size so if you are travelling with children, this is a lovely spot to entertain your young travellers.  We continued up this road and found ourselves standing in front of the famed art school of Havana.  The property was a golf course prior to the Revolution and was redesigned by Che Guevara in order to house the extraordinary talent of Cuban painters, sculptors, and musicians.  We were not allowed to enter the premises but could hear the sounds of the young musicians' instruments wafting through the air.  No one plays an instrument like a Cuban or a New Orleans musician.  However, the experience of listening to these bent notes while gazing at the unusual shapes of the buildings in this complex was worth the long walk in the heat.

There actually are some decent stores appearing in Miramar.  In between two hotels on the waterfront, one of which is the Comodoro, is a new outdoor shopping/eating complex that is similar to something you might see in North America.  I was shocked at the prices but if one works in the tourist industry, one can actually pay 80.00 CUC for a pair of running shoes.  I assume that since this mall is near the larger hotels, the focus is on tourist dollars.  Also, during one of our walks in Miramar, we found another little shopping mall which had outdoor food stalls.  This mall is definitely geared to locals-the stores were very different in appearance and quality of stock than the stores near the large hotels.  Let's just say that the shelves were not full and the items were less than thrilling.

I look forward to returning to this beautiful city tomorrow and seeing my new Cuban friends.  I have found some new art studios and music venues to explore.  Havana has so much to offer that it is difficult to find the time in one week to see everything but I will do my best and will be back with a new report in a couple of weeks. TQM  te quiero mucho!