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It has been nearly a year since the doctor and I traveled to Belgium and southern France for a month. My life is just too darn busy folks, but since we are leaving for Sicily in three weeks and will have much to report, I thought I would sit at my desk this morning and give my readers an overview of the fabulous trip last year.
For those of you who follow me religiously, you are aware that we rent apartments as often as possible. We love this type of accommodation for many reasons: our own space with our own time constraints, to feel as one with the city and area, to save money on meals, and experience life as a local by grocery shopping, visiting the markets and local stores, attempting to speak the language, learning to master a language by immersing oneself in the present culture, speak to and befriend locals who may become life-long friends. Occasionally, we may stay in a hotel if we are in a city for a few days but generally, we prefer the comfort of our home away from home.
Now on to Brussels. The doctor always chooses the best apartments that are centrally located, clean, well-appointed, and with luck, outstanding hosts who give of their time to let one know about life in the city for locals and cool things to do outside of the general tourist fare. Out interests are history, architecture, points of interest known only to locals, and for me, off the tourist track restaurants, vintage furniture and clothing stores, and innovative new clothing designers. Let's just say that Brussels did not disappoint.
I missed the first day because I arrived with the flu. Thank goodness our beautiful apartment in the centre of town had two beds so I didn't share my germs with the doctor. Although I still didn't feel well, I was not going to spend the rest of my time in this beautiful city in bed so I washed my face, pulled on my jeans and ventured out into the stunning main square in this hip and innovative city.
Our landlord informed us of the hip neighbourhoods which are loaded with the latest trend in furniture and clothing design. Presently, the Belgians are forerunners in these fields so I was eager to see what was happening in this cutting-edge city. Outside of the tourist area near the antique market square, the streets are teeming with vintage furniture and clothing stores. The current trend in vintage furniture is Danish Modern (which has also found its way across the pond). There are some extraordinary pieces which priced fairly and reasonably.
Since I am always in search of really good vintage clothing stores I found the creme de la creme of Brussels purely by accident or better yet, fate. While riding the train back from Ghent, the doctor and I were sitting next to a couple who were speaking English. We chatted with them and found out that the father lives in Canada and his daughter, Siobhan Davis lives in Brussels. Siobhan is married to a man from Tangiers and they own a unique store on the peripheral of the antique market called House of Wunders which specializes in natural gemstones from Morocco. She was so kind and invited us to visit her at her store. On the day of the antique market in the square we visited Siobhan and she informed us of points of interest in Brussels as well as the vintage store right next to her. She also offered her waterfront apartment in Tangier to us when we decide to return there. Connections are everything, folks.
The vintage store which I believe is called Modes is the best vintage clothing store outside of Paris. The store is arranged more like a high-end boutique rather than the typical jam-packed used clothing store which only look inviting to serious and patient shoppers. The stunning boutique had top quality items at very reasonable prices. I opted for a black Persian Lamb stole for 75 Euros but should have also nabbed a Burberry raincoat for an equally great price. There was an entire rack of excellent quality Burberry coats and the prices were practically free. Hindsight is 20/20 and I am still regretting my reluctance today.
There are a number of great shopping districts in Brussels. There is the vintage district which I spoke about above, there is the affordable luxury fashion area with European chain stores, and the other high-fashion area with top Belgian designers and luxury brands housed in stores that are also works of art. I was as mesmerized by the store designs as I was the fashion and how the two melded together to create a sense of installation art.
Language alert: In Brussels the main language is French but the three other cities we visited: Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges, the language of the masses is Flemish.
Transportation: The train service in Belgium is superb. The trains are cheap, clean, fast, and efficient. A round trip ticket is 12.00 Euros and since each of these aforementioned cities are nearby, a day visit is enough for general sightseeing. Also, the cities are very walkable so it is easy to get around on foot.
A brief bit of information on day trips to Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges.
Ghent
This charming little city is bustling with restaurants and cafes on the waterfront. It is clean, filled with historic buildings and sweet little stores. It is definitely geared toward tourists so a one day stroll around this lovely city is enough to take in the sites.
Bruges
I have been wanting to visit Bruges since I saw the film, In Bruges. The cinematography of this film was a love note to this beautiful city and once there, the city did not disappoint. I have never seen such a pristine city. In many cities in Europe, the buildings are covered with graffiti. But not here. The residents of Bruges obviously have great civic pride and insist on cleanliness and curb appeal. Each home is an architectural gem lovingly restored to perfection. The swans in the river add to the serene appeal of this picturesque city. Strolling through the streets we marvelled at each and every building and were transported back in time forgetting that we were actually in the new millennium. The windmills are a lovely added touch and I am surprised that more films are not shot here. It is sheer perfection.
Antwerp
Diamonds and more Diamonds: For my interests, one day is not enough in Antwerp. Yes, it is beautiful yet much larger and is lacking the quaintness Ghent and Bruges. But don't let that dissuade you. This is city is a world-class city on a number of levels. First of all, it has a large Hasidic community and is located near the diamond district. Antwerp is a diamond destination and jewellers from around the world trade and shop here. Unfortunately, we chose to visit on Shabbat (the Jewish sabbath) so many of the jewelry shops in the diamond district were closed. The shops that remained open were owned by non-observant Jews. However, if you are searching for a top quality stone at a reasonable price, this is the place to be. I was intrigued but do not have a keen interest in gemstones so I was not compelled to beg the doctor for a huge rock.
Mussels and Frites: Mussels and frites are plentiful in Belgium and can be found at most restaurants. I use the word plentiful not just because they are readily available but because of the quantity served. The doctor and I decided to have lunch at a lovely spot near the waterfront. We decided to try the mussels and frites since we had not yet sampled this Belgian fare. Once my dish arrived, the bowl was brimming with nearly 100 mussels. Mind you, they were delicious and I love shellfish, but I was having trouble making a dent in it. The doctor helped me with this tasty dish but we still had trouble finishing it. When I informed my waiter that although it was outstanding I could not finish it without my husband's help, the waiter replied that many people order two bowls each. And no one is fat in Belgium. How is this possible? This is right up there with rich sauces, cheese, and bread as a French diet staple and Parisians are thin. I need to find out what their secret is. Maybe they starve all week and load up during one meal. Whatever it is, it seems to work for them.
Fashion: This is a fashion capital. In Brussels and Antwerp, one is introduced to many brilliant young designers who are featured in stores of award-winning design. Unfortunately, I did not have enough time to peruse all of the stores in this district and the fashion museum was closed but one day I will return and spend the day in this neighbourhood. My son had told me years ago that the young people in Antwerp had great style - he was right on the mark. Every young person on the street was so hip. I wish this style would rub off on North Americans who live in sweat clothes and bad sneakers.
Weddings:
There is nothing like a good wedding especially when it is catered by Party in a box. Now I actually don't know the name of this Belgian service but it is brilliant nonetheless. Let me digress. Since we were in Antwerp on a Saturday, the downside was the closure of most of the diamond district but the plus side was the little treat known as the Belgian wedding. Now we are all aware of the overblown North American wedding that can cost a pretty penny and the possible sale of a kidney but in Belgium they opt for the sensible route. On Saturday afternoon, city hall is filled with couples exchanging vows in front of family and friends. Wedding dresses are worn, there are some attendants but once the ceremony is through, the groups descend enmasse to the city square in front of city hall for an impromptu party filled with well-wishers, photographers, and yes, Party in a box. What is this you ask? Well, a little truck pulls into the square and parks. The driver/bartender opens the side of his truck revealing a bar. He climbs into the back of the truck producing tall tables covered in black tablecloths. He serves the drinks while a waitress (who seems to magically appear) serves Hors d' oeuvres. Voila! An impromptu reception that is over in an hour or so and that probably cost a half a week's salary. The couple is feted, the guests are fed, and everyone still has time to spend the afternoon in a cafe.
Stores and shopping areas of interest in Brussels:
The best street for luxury shopping is Rue A. Dansaertstraat.
Just in Case
Rue Léon Lepardstraat 63
1000 Brussel
0032 (0) 511 50 01
Stijl
Rue A. Dansaertstraat 74
1000 Brussels
+32 (0)2 512 03 13
info@stijl.be
www.stijl.be
Note: If you are a serious fashionista, stop in Stijl and pick up a Fashion and Beauty Guide produced by Elle Belgium. It lists every quality store in Brussels. I wish I had a copy of this earlier in my trip. I would have ditched the doctor for a day and just perused all of the great fashion in this city.
Stores and shopping districts in Antwerp: (these stores are all in the same cool district)
Princess
"Little Princess"
Meir 51-53-55
2000 Antwerpen
www.princess.eu
Renaissance
Nationalestraat 28-32
2000 Antwerpen
renaissance-antwerp.com
Blue
Schrijnwerkersstr. 7
2000 Antwerpen
Bellarose
Lombardenvest 62
2000 Antwerpen
Drukkerijstraat 18-20
2000 Antwerp
Need some coffee and your dreads touched up?
Dreadlovers
(hair dye/stretchers/make-up/food/drinks/accessories/temporary exhibits)
Yes readers, you too can have coffee and a muffin while having your dreads rewaxed. This is a great place in a funky little neighbourhood that clearly illustrates one sector of this diverse city.
For those of you who follow me religiously, you are aware that we rent apartments as often as possible. We love this type of accommodation for many reasons: our own space with our own time constraints, to feel as one with the city and area, to save money on meals, and experience life as a local by grocery shopping, visiting the markets and local stores, attempting to speak the language, learning to master a language by immersing oneself in the present culture, speak to and befriend locals who may become life-long friends. Occasionally, we may stay in a hotel if we are in a city for a few days but generally, we prefer the comfort of our home away from home.
Now on to Brussels. The doctor always chooses the best apartments that are centrally located, clean, well-appointed, and with luck, outstanding hosts who give of their time to let one know about life in the city for locals and cool things to do outside of the general tourist fare. Out interests are history, architecture, points of interest known only to locals, and for me, off the tourist track restaurants, vintage furniture and clothing stores, and innovative new clothing designers. Let's just say that Brussels did not disappoint.
I missed the first day because I arrived with the flu. Thank goodness our beautiful apartment in the centre of town had two beds so I didn't share my germs with the doctor. Although I still didn't feel well, I was not going to spend the rest of my time in this beautiful city in bed so I washed my face, pulled on my jeans and ventured out into the stunning main square in this hip and innovative city.
Our landlord informed us of the hip neighbourhoods which are loaded with the latest trend in furniture and clothing design. Presently, the Belgians are forerunners in these fields so I was eager to see what was happening in this cutting-edge city. Outside of the tourist area near the antique market square, the streets are teeming with vintage furniture and clothing stores. The current trend in vintage furniture is Danish Modern (which has also found its way across the pond). There are some extraordinary pieces which priced fairly and reasonably.
Since I am always in search of really good vintage clothing stores I found the creme de la creme of Brussels purely by accident or better yet, fate. While riding the train back from Ghent, the doctor and I were sitting next to a couple who were speaking English. We chatted with them and found out that the father lives in Canada and his daughter, Siobhan Davis lives in Brussels. Siobhan is married to a man from Tangiers and they own a unique store on the peripheral of the antique market called House of Wunders which specializes in natural gemstones from Morocco. She was so kind and invited us to visit her at her store. On the day of the antique market in the square we visited Siobhan and she informed us of points of interest in Brussels as well as the vintage store right next to her. She also offered her waterfront apartment in Tangier to us when we decide to return there. Connections are everything, folks.
The vintage store which I believe is called Modes is the best vintage clothing store outside of Paris. The store is arranged more like a high-end boutique rather than the typical jam-packed used clothing store which only look inviting to serious and patient shoppers. The stunning boutique had top quality items at very reasonable prices. I opted for a black Persian Lamb stole for 75 Euros but should have also nabbed a Burberry raincoat for an equally great price. There was an entire rack of excellent quality Burberry coats and the prices were practically free. Hindsight is 20/20 and I am still regretting my reluctance today.
There are a number of great shopping districts in Brussels. There is the vintage district which I spoke about above, there is the affordable luxury fashion area with European chain stores, and the other high-fashion area with top Belgian designers and luxury brands housed in stores that are also works of art. I was as mesmerized by the store designs as I was the fashion and how the two melded together to create a sense of installation art.
Language alert: In Brussels the main language is French but the three other cities we visited: Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges, the language of the masses is Flemish.
Transportation: The train service in Belgium is superb. The trains are cheap, clean, fast, and efficient. A round trip ticket is 12.00 Euros and since each of these aforementioned cities are nearby, a day visit is enough for general sightseeing. Also, the cities are very walkable so it is easy to get around on foot.
A brief bit of information on day trips to Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges.
Ghent
This charming little city is bustling with restaurants and cafes on the waterfront. It is clean, filled with historic buildings and sweet little stores. It is definitely geared toward tourists so a one day stroll around this lovely city is enough to take in the sites.
Bruges
I have been wanting to visit Bruges since I saw the film, In Bruges. The cinematography of this film was a love note to this beautiful city and once there, the city did not disappoint. I have never seen such a pristine city. In many cities in Europe, the buildings are covered with graffiti. But not here. The residents of Bruges obviously have great civic pride and insist on cleanliness and curb appeal. Each home is an architectural gem lovingly restored to perfection. The swans in the river add to the serene appeal of this picturesque city. Strolling through the streets we marvelled at each and every building and were transported back in time forgetting that we were actually in the new millennium. The windmills are a lovely added touch and I am surprised that more films are not shot here. It is sheer perfection.
Antwerp
Diamonds and more Diamonds: For my interests, one day is not enough in Antwerp. Yes, it is beautiful yet much larger and is lacking the quaintness Ghent and Bruges. But don't let that dissuade you. This is city is a world-class city on a number of levels. First of all, it has a large Hasidic community and is located near the diamond district. Antwerp is a diamond destination and jewellers from around the world trade and shop here. Unfortunately, we chose to visit on Shabbat (the Jewish sabbath) so many of the jewelry shops in the diamond district were closed. The shops that remained open were owned by non-observant Jews. However, if you are searching for a top quality stone at a reasonable price, this is the place to be. I was intrigued but do not have a keen interest in gemstones so I was not compelled to beg the doctor for a huge rock.
Mussels and Frites: Mussels and frites are plentiful in Belgium and can be found at most restaurants. I use the word plentiful not just because they are readily available but because of the quantity served. The doctor and I decided to have lunch at a lovely spot near the waterfront. We decided to try the mussels and frites since we had not yet sampled this Belgian fare. Once my dish arrived, the bowl was brimming with nearly 100 mussels. Mind you, they were delicious and I love shellfish, but I was having trouble making a dent in it. The doctor helped me with this tasty dish but we still had trouble finishing it. When I informed my waiter that although it was outstanding I could not finish it without my husband's help, the waiter replied that many people order two bowls each. And no one is fat in Belgium. How is this possible? This is right up there with rich sauces, cheese, and bread as a French diet staple and Parisians are thin. I need to find out what their secret is. Maybe they starve all week and load up during one meal. Whatever it is, it seems to work for them.
Fashion: This is a fashion capital. In Brussels and Antwerp, one is introduced to many brilliant young designers who are featured in stores of award-winning design. Unfortunately, I did not have enough time to peruse all of the stores in this district and the fashion museum was closed but one day I will return and spend the day in this neighbourhood. My son had told me years ago that the young people in Antwerp had great style - he was right on the mark. Every young person on the street was so hip. I wish this style would rub off on North Americans who live in sweat clothes and bad sneakers.
Weddings:
There is nothing like a good wedding especially when it is catered by Party in a box. Now I actually don't know the name of this Belgian service but it is brilliant nonetheless. Let me digress. Since we were in Antwerp on a Saturday, the downside was the closure of most of the diamond district but the plus side was the little treat known as the Belgian wedding. Now we are all aware of the overblown North American wedding that can cost a pretty penny and the possible sale of a kidney but in Belgium they opt for the sensible route. On Saturday afternoon, city hall is filled with couples exchanging vows in front of family and friends. Wedding dresses are worn, there are some attendants but once the ceremony is through, the groups descend enmasse to the city square in front of city hall for an impromptu party filled with well-wishers, photographers, and yes, Party in a box. What is this you ask? Well, a little truck pulls into the square and parks. The driver/bartender opens the side of his truck revealing a bar. He climbs into the back of the truck producing tall tables covered in black tablecloths. He serves the drinks while a waitress (who seems to magically appear) serves Hors d' oeuvres. Voila! An impromptu reception that is over in an hour or so and that probably cost a half a week's salary. The couple is feted, the guests are fed, and everyone still has time to spend the afternoon in a cafe.
 |
| A very relaxed bride |
The best street for luxury shopping is Rue A. Dansaertstraat.
Just in Case
Rue Léon Lepardstraat 63
1000 Brussel
0032 (0) 511 50 01
Stijl
Rue A. Dansaertstraat 74
1000 Brussels
+32 (0)2 512 03 13
info@stijl.be
www.stijl.be
Note: If you are a serious fashionista, stop in Stijl and pick up a Fashion and Beauty Guide produced by Elle Belgium. It lists every quality store in Brussels. I wish I had a copy of this earlier in my trip. I would have ditched the doctor for a day and just perused all of the great fashion in this city.
Stores and shopping districts in Antwerp: (these stores are all in the same cool district)
Princess
"Little Princess"
Meir 51-53-55
2000 Antwerpen
www.princess.eu
Renaissance
Nationalestraat 28-32
2000 Antwerpen
renaissance-antwerp.com
Blue
Schrijnwerkersstr. 7
2000 Antwerpen
Bellarose
Lombardenvest 62
2000 Antwerpen
Drukkerijstraat 18-20
2000 Antwerp
Need some coffee and your dreads touched up?
Dreadlovers
(hair dye/stretchers/make-up/food/drinks/accessories/temporary exhibits)
Yes readers, you too can have coffee and a muffin while having your dreads rewaxed. This is a great place in a funky little neighbourhood that clearly illustrates one sector of this diverse city.
