Verona

Verona

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Kingston: Why not?


I have lived in Kingston, Ontario, Canada for 34 years.  When you are familiar with your surroundings, you forget that it may be a city with something to offer in terms of tourism, historical value, and beauty.  Kingston is such a place so I have decided to include it in my travel blog.
When I first moved here 3 decades ago, it was a pretty little town across Lake Ontario from my hometown of Rochester, New York.  Frankly, it was uber boring back then with little in terms of good restaurants, shopping, and nightlife.  I was accustomed to great Italian food, nightclubs, live music, trendy clothing, and did I mention great Italian food?  In Kingston?  I had my choice between stripper bars and low end restaurants posing as Italian.  It was not good and frankly, I thought I would die a slow painful death here.  Fortunately, Kingston finally caught up with the rest of the world and it is now a great city to live in.  I have also discovered the uniqueness and historical significance of this dynamic little place.


History - Kingston was established in 1673 and is the oldest city in Ontario.   
The City was built at a watery cross roads, where the southernmost end of the Rideau Canal meets Lake Ontario at the source of the St. Lawrence River and the western gateway to the Thousand Islands . The City's strategic location provided prosperity through shipbuilding and national defense during the 1800s. Kingston was the first capital of the united Upper and Lower Canadas from 1841 to 1844, and was one of the contenders to remain as Capital before Confederation. Unfortunately, Kingston lost out to an alternating location of Montreal and Toronto, and then later to Ottawa in 1857, where it has resided since. Kingston was, however, the home of Canada's first Prime Minister, Sir John A. Macdonald and on June 13, 1841 was the site of the first meeting of the Parliament of Canada.

The summer months in Kingston are by far the best.  Many Kingstonians will flee the city in favor of their cottages on the banks of our many back lakes, but I prefer to stay in town and ride my bike along the shore from my house to Confederation Basin which is located in the heart of the city.  By June, the harbor is filled with boats from all over the world and the patios are bustling with tourists and locals who have spent part of their day at our local market.  One can relax with a meal or beverage while their dog rests or drinks from a cold bowl of water from the restaurant's kitchen.  Throughout the summer, the basin plays host to a variety of festivals and activities:  Buskers, Poker Run, and the Blues Festival are just a few of the staples of summer time in Kingston.  Once I park my bike, I walk around downtown and shop at our many locally owned stores while listening to music performed by local buskers. 
Clues that indicate to Kingstonians that summer is here:
The first clue is the opening of Chez Piggy's patio.  If you are the fortunate individual who has discovered the patio open on the first decent day of spring, you are one lucky dude.  The Pig is a Kingston institution which opened in 1979 and is still owned and operated by the Yanovsky family.  Zoe Yanovsky is the present owner of this great restaurant as well as its sister restaurant/bakery, Pan Chancho.  Zoe's parents, Zal and Rose built this business with love and laughter.  Kingston is not the same without them but their generous gifts to our community live on in their charities, in Zoe, and their beautiful grandsons.


The second clue that it is summer in the city is the appearance of Bad Fiddle Guy.  This elderly man has been playing the fiddle very badly on Princess Street for a couple of decades.  One does not feel complete until a jaunt up Princess Street is met by the badly bent notes of classic songs.  If BFG were to improve, the experience would just not be the same.  Kingston has had other bad buskers such as harmonica/tambourine man but none with the longevity as Bad Fiddle Guy.  Guitar Guy, who plays in front of the Mac's Milk on Ontario Street plays all year long.  Hence, we cannot gage seasonal changes by his presence.
The third clue is the opening of White Mountain Ice Cream.  This establishment makes its ice cream on site and it is yummy.  The line often spills out onto the sidewalk but it moves quickly so you won't be waiting for your Chunky Monkey too long.
The fourth clue is the return of all of the vendors to the Public Market.  There are some vendors who remain throughout the winter on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday but the full market opens as soon as we have ditched our boots and coats.  On Sunday, Kingston has an Antique Market which is great.  I have purchased wonderful pieces here for years and the prices are much more reasonable than one would find in Montreal and Toronto.  Feel free to bargain with the vendors - it is half the fun!
The fifth clue is the appearance of shorts on Queen students.  As soon as there is a full day of sun and mild weather, the students are wearing shorts and sunning themselves on the roofs of their apartment buildings.  They often will drag their living room furniture out onto the front lawn of their abode and enjoy a few cold brewskies while studying for exams.
The sixth clue is the arrival of American tourists.  Americans love Kingston and the ability to park their boats in the harbor and explore the city without the need for a car.  How do we know when the Americans have arrived?  That's easy - family units decked out in white socks and sneakers.  It's a dead giveaway!

How to explore Kingston:
Kingston is a walkable city.  If you arrive by boat, you will not need additional transportation unless you plan on visiting the burbs or cottage country.  Everything you need is centrally located in our downtown core.  Princess Street is our main street.  You will find many restaurants from fine dining to poutine (my son tells me that Bubba's has the best poutine on the planet), clothing stores, cafes, coffee and tea shops, pubs, clubs, books, hairdressers and specialty shops.  The side streets offer a mix of interesting businesses from Buddha temples to tattoo parlors.  Yes, we aim to please.
Ontario Street is bustling with great restaurants and pubs, all with outdoor patios.  Live music is available most evenings and films are shown after sunset in front of City Hall in Market Square.  Lunch time music for all tastes is offered in Confederation Basin every day.  Grab a hot dog and a drink from a pushcart and enjoy the music and the view of Lake Ontario.  It is a great way to spend a part of your day.
I like to ride my bike around the city or walk along the waterfront and observe the baby geese which will unfortunately, grow into adult geese that eat and poo in one continuous motion.  So, watch where you walk.  They are cute but messy.  
There are boat rides which tour the Thousand Islands and one boat in particular offers dinner and music while cruising the lake.  You can rent kayaks, and jet skis near the Yacht Club and swim anywhere you like.  This side of the lake is clean and very usable.  I swim all summer long off the beaches near my home.
Kington is the second oldest city in Canada so there is beautiful architecture that is respected and preserved.  A stroll around our city will delight those who enjoy early 19th century architecture.  In fact, on Centre Street is the home of our first Prime Minister Sir John A. MacDonald.  It is open to the public so check it out.  
The Tourist Bureau is centrally located on Ontario Street across from City Hall.  They will let you know about all of our historic sites and their hours.  Fort Henry is a must for tourists.


So, if you decide to join me this summer, I will save you a seat on the Pig's patio.  I will make sure the wine is breathing.