Bari
I was born and raised in Rochester, New York, a hub of southern Italian and Sicilian food and customs. For me, pizza is not pizza unless it is made in Rochester by Sicilians. That said, the doctor and I felt another trip to Italy was necessary. This time, we would explore the boot and all of its charms.
We began our trip in the large seaside city of Bari. I knew nothing of Bari except that many friends' family members emigrated from there. I was curious about this intriguing city with so many ties to Rochester that I had to see it for myself. I was not disappointed.
Bari is a mixture of high culture and seafaring men who engage in heated card games on the street.
The fisherman can be seen at night along the beautifully lit walkway along the water's edge bringing in the catch of the day for the next day's sale. If one is an early bird, the lively activity at the fish market is Bari at its theatrical best and the frutti di mare is still squirming, hoping to find its way back to the sea. The most intriguing sea delight is the sea urchin or riccio di mare. This little critter is a spiny little ball that is cracked in half and then rid of its green liquid membrane. The orange flesh that remains is eaten raw and often on a piece of crusty Italian bread. I assumed that this was indigenous to the Puglia area but lo and behold, I found it on our street in Palermo but still passed it up.
This delightful city is very cosmopolitan with great architecture, shops, restaurants, and bars for all ages. There is a section near the waterfront that is a very cool pedestrian only area filled with interesting restaurants and bars that are not filled until much later at night. This area seems to attract a younger crowd, but hey, I'm young at heart and can stay up past 11 so I was eager to try it. Unfortunately, the doctor has a different bedtime schedule so we observed, made mental notes and called it a night.
There are a number of different neighbourhoods of equal interest in Bari. We were fortunate enough to rent an apartment in the medieval section of the city. The streets are a tangled web of surprises with small piazzas still occupied by the same families for generations. Our piazza was no different. The apartment we rented was very small but charming; however, the interesting note is that this tiny space was once home to a family of 13. We never needed to lock our doors or close them when we were home because each occupant of this piazza looks out for one another; hence, no need for additional security measures. I wish all cities were like Bari.
This sweet neighbourhood was home to many tiny shops selling meat, cheese, wine, and some household supplies. Some women were drying their homemade pasta in wooden bins on the street. Exterior home displays of the Madonna were the norm, often encased in a wooden frame with glass and adorned with flowers and candles. One can assume that life has changed very little in this neighbourhood for hundreds of years.
has its own pottery designs that are unique to the area. The riccio di mare is revered and is honoured with its likeness in beautiful ceramica of varying sizes and colours. I am so glad I chose to buy one because I was unable to find any more in all of Puglia.
Cisternino and Alberobello and the beauty of the Trulli
Trulli structures have been on my bucket list for quite some time. I follow Vogue editor, Anna Dello Russo on Instagram for two reasons: she is outrageous and a fashion trendsetter and lives in Cisternino in a Trullo house. Anna often features her stunning home and the town of Cisternino and I was determined to travel to this town and find Anna's home.
Once we arrived in Cisternino, the doctor and I parked the car and looked for Anna's favourite restaurant. We couldn't find it. We also noticed that the countryside around this bland little town is dotted with hundreds of trulli homes. My shoulders dropped because I knew that the doctor was not keen on driving around looking for Anna's house. I tried whining a bit and telling him that if Anna knew I was looking for her that she might invite me in for an espresso. Well, the whining didn't work and my Where's Waldo moment died so we decided to drive to Alberobello where the trulli are clustered together in a small town and easier to observe.
All was not lost. The drive between Cisternino and Alberobello was worth the disappointment of not finding Anna's home (well, almost). The countryside is filled with trulli in every shape, form, and state of decline and restoration. They are the most beautiful structures of bleached white stucco and stone roofs. Some of the structures are combined with modern additions that work well with these ancient abodes and each home is unique and a complement to its owner's taste and whimsy.
Once we reached Alberobello we were mesmerized by the beauty of the cluster of white stone buildings sitting on top of a hill reflecting the sky's light. I thought I had died and gone to heaven. Once we reached the top of the hill and began exploring the town, we were disappointed with the number of tacky souvenir shops housed in these magnificent structures. I thought we might find some more of the beautiful ceramica we saw in Bari but no such luck. Each street was littered with one tacky store selling cheap crap that was most likely made in China. Two disappointments: No Anna and no Apuglia ceramica. Well, I did get to see the trulli and I still love them.
Hits and Misses in Sicily
We have been fortunate enough to see many cities in Sicily. Some are better than others so I thought I would give my readers my two cents regarding what is a must and what is not.
I must mention that the doctor and I are walkers. We can see a small city in a day and cover about 5-8 miles at a time. When we were a bit younger, we could cover more ground but we still seem to be able to see the major sites in record time. All of the cities mentioned below were covered by us in a day; however, if you are not a long distance walker, you may wish to spend two days discovering the charms of each city.
Hits
Taormina: a stunning mountain top city loaded with charm, historic sites, great food and plenty of ceramica to choose from. If you are not planning on visiting Caltigirone, then consider buying your pieces here. The stores will ship to your home if you are unable to carry your purchases on the plane.
If you do decide to stay for a few days, spend some time below the city and enjoy the lovely beaches. The water is still warm and enjoyable in November.
Caltagirone: This beautiful city is known for its steep stairway that is adorned with flowers in May. We were there in March so it was not as pleasant as May but the advantage is that you can easily see the city in a day and purchase great ceramica for greatly reduced prices because it is off season. Do not buy from shops in the main square. Head to Via Roma where the artisans are working in their studios. This street is lined with shops and workshops which provides great window shopping. Do not be afraid to bargain for prices. Warning: this city, like many in Sicily, is very hilly. Wear good shoes and be prepared to climb if you want to really see the city and the stunning vistas from the old part of the city.
Messina: We had no idea that we would find Messina so enchanting - lovely buildings, green spaces, and flat enough for the novice walker. It is an easy ferry ride from Reggio Calabria to this port city. The evenings are filled with people of all ages strolling the main shopping streets and sipping espresso at outdoor cafes.
Siracusa and Ortigia: Ortigia is a stunning port area that is actually an island and part of the city of Siracusa. It has great outdoor markets, upscale dining, a Jewish quarter with a hotel that has an ancient Mikvah below the hotel. There are many Roman and Greek ruins to explore.
San Cataldo: I mention San Cataldo for a number of reasons. It is a lovely city but not on the same level as Taormina or Caltagirone. However, it is an important city because many Sicilian-Americans left here at the turn of the 20th century when the mines closed in this area. If you were to poll Americans from the Scranton, Pennsylvania area as well as Rochester, New York and New York City, you would find that many of the present populations of these cities have ancestors for San Cataldo and its neighbouring city of Caltanissetta. San Cataldo is home to Chiesa Madre, the mother church built in 1633. It is a stunning cathedral and one of many important churches found in this city. The Pasqua Settimana Santa is the most elaborate of any of the celebrations throughout Italy. The entire population of San Cataldo is involved in one way or another and the streets become home to a passion play and processions extraordinaire for five full days.
This city also has one of the best bakeries in Sicily called Imera. Its owner and pastry chef, Giovanni Imera is a master and one should not leave Sicily without sampling his delicious pastries.
Monreale: If you are spending the week in Palermo, Monreale is a short drive away. It has a great cathedral that is famous and worth the trip.
Erice: This is another day trip one can do from a home base in Palermo. It is a mountain top medieval city above the city of Trapani. Trapani is pretty but the main attraction is Erice. Ride the funicular to the top and remember to bring a sweater or coat. It is chilly up there.
Agrigento: Agrigento is a must for anyone visiting Sicily. It is an ancient Greek settlement that has been preserved beautifully. In fact, many say that the temples in Agrigento are in better shape than those you would see in Greece. Stroll through the remains while glancing down to the deep turquoise sea. You will not want to miss this. If you are using Palermo as a base, you can be in Agrigento by car in two hours. It is an easy day trip.
Cefalu: If you are staying in Palermo, there are many little day trips one can do by car. Cefalu is about an hour away from Palermo and depending on what your interests are, you can see it all in one day or spend a week here enjoying the gorgeous beach, eating great food, and exploring this tourist friendly city.
San Vito di Capo: The film Mary Magdelene was recently filmed here, posing as ancient Galilee. The beach is heavenly and one can rent any one of the charming beach homes that dot the coastline. I would recommend the beach homes owned by Vera and Teresa Werber who also own the apartment we love in Palermo.
Misses
Catania: The doctor and I find value in every place we visit so nothing is every a true miss. However, if your schedule is tight and you want to see the best of Sicily, I would recommend skipping Catania. The main square with the famous elephant sculpture is lovely and one can climb to the top of a museum for a good look at Mount Etna, but the view of the volcano can also be viewed from Taormina which is a better use of your money and time.
We did stay in a stunning apartment with frescoed ceilings but the apartment was so big that we found it very cold. The landlord did leave space heaters for us which helped. The other disadvantage was that the bathroom was quite far away from the bedroom which made it difficult for my elderly doctor to make his multiple nightly trips to the loo. The location of the apartment was close to the beautiful fish market and main square which made sightseeing rather easy.
The best route to use to explore the island
As I have already mentioned, we began our trip on the mainland of Italy. If you would like to begin your trip in Sicily, there are many ways to do this but I think that this route might prove to be the best.
Begin your trip in Messina and work along the eastern coast and travel westward. Once you reach Agrigento, travel inland and northeast to the towns mentioned above, finishing this part of the journey in San Cataldo. Continue north to Palermo and remain here in our favourite apartment and use as a base to explore all of the charming cities near it.
Palermo
What else can I say but that I love Palermo. It is a great city with beautiful parks, great food, stunning waterfront and views, cool neighbourhoods with young artists, cafes filled with university students from the nearby University of Palermo. There are an abundance of historically important works of architecture as well as the delightful combination of high culture mingling with fishmongers who speak a distinct dialect of Sicilian that some Sicilians claim to not understand. Some of these ancient structures have not been repaired since World War Two. However, they stand as reminders of the perils of war and the poverty that has plagued the island during times of hardship. Young artists have taken ownership of these structures and decorate them with artistic renderings of youthful Sicilian ideas influenced by the various ancient cultures that have dominated the island. If you stay in Palermo in October, all of the major buildings normally not open to the public are available for tours. You can purchase a booklet of passes or individual passes at each building.
We were fortunate to have found the perfect apartment in Palermo. Although the city is primarily on the water, there are few buildings that have a water view. The doctor knows that a water view is paramount to my travel pleasure and found this apartment that had everything and more. Our landlord
Vera Werber or one of her delightful children will meet you at this spotless apartment. This home must be at least 2000 square feet and is surrounded by French windows with wrought iron Juliet balconies that allow one to see the city from three directions. The terrace is essentially an outdoor room where we spent most of our time, enjoying a glass of wine and watching the ferries come and go from the nearby port. Similar to other cities in Sicily, local transportation is available, but it is a very walkable city that is safe and beautiful when lit by sunshine or dim street lamps at night.
The grocery store is a five minute walk from the apartment and restaurants are everywhere so you will never starve. And folks, it is Sicily - all of the food is delicious, even the street food.
If I were able, I would return to Sicily every year to visit family, more towns and cities and stay in my favourite apartment in Palermo. If you are like me and do not wish to spend your winter in Florida playing golf and bridge, then head to Sicily and be ready to fall in love over and over again.
AirBnB Apartments I recommend
Ortigia/Siracusa
https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/12000593?s=51
Messina
https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/18968966?s=51
Bari
https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/2729196?s=51
* This is apartment is in a great location and is very cute with a modern bathroom. There is a minimal kitchen and not suitable for lengthy stays.
Caltagirone
https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/10739976?s=51
The most beautiful breakfast is made and served by the owner.
Palermo
https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/2575823?s=51
This is our favourite apartment in the world. It is located on the top floor of a modern building with a huge terrace that overlooks the parts of the city, sea, and mountains. This apartment has every modern convenience and is located in a perfect neighbourhood close to a large grocery store, major shopping streets, an art district, many restaurants, and the most sinful bakeries on the island. Vera is a tremendous host and she and her sister also own two stunning rental homes on the sea in Lo Vito de Capo which is located one and one half hours north of Palermo.
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