Verona

Verona

Thursday, January 6, 2011

Traveling Abroad

Traveling outside of your comfort zone can be a blessing or a curse.  It all depends on how you prepare for travel.  First, let me provide you with savvy tips for travel in Europe.

Dress:
Europeans dress well.  Enough said!  In some countries teenagers still look to American culture for trends but no one knows about style more than French, Italian and Spanish people.  Many Americans find the French haughty but let's be realistic, if a French woman has one dollar to her name, she will find a way to make her outfit work and look fabulous. 
The European lifestyle is very different than what we are accustomed to in North America.  Most people live in apartments, take public transportation, shop daily for food, and own beautiful clothes.  But the difference between Euros and us is that they have fewer clothes but better quality.  A French woman may have one winter coat but it will be a gorgeous coat accessorized with just the right purse and shoes.

Clothing Musts:
When traveling in Europe, dress like a European.  A simple pair of trendy jeans, a great pair of walking shoes, and a couple of nice blouses or tees with a beautiful scarf will prepare you for any place you need to go.  For men, have a nice pair of pants, shirt, tie, and jacket with you if you plan on eating in a nice restaurant.  Italian men dress well.  For women, bring a simple black dress and heels.  Keep it simple, trendy, classic, and comfortable.  You will be doing a lot of walking but DO NOT WEAR SNEAKERS IF YOU ARE OVER 25!  European kids and teens wear colorful Converse canvas sneakers and some teens in Italy are beginning to wear American style sneakers but do not wear them if you are no longer eligible for a student discount!
Travel purses must look good but  light enough for walking and cross your body for safety.  It must have a zipper.  I will cover safety issues later.

This photo is from the Italian film, I am Love which was shot on location in Milan.  Italians do dress like this except when they are on holiday near the sea.

Clothing Must Nots:
Everyone has heard the stories regarding the "Ugly American" but when one notices what many Americans wear when traveling, I must agree and I am an American/Canadian.  The outfits consist of the following for both men and women:  white sneakers with white socks; ghastly knee-length jean shorts, fanny-pack, knapsack, ball cap, too much jewelry(women), and t-shirts with tacky slogans.  If you dress like this you will not be regarded as fashionable but instead, will be ridiculed and targeted by pickpockets.  Try to fit in not stick out!  When Europeans travel, they do carry knapsacks but they are small and have a very specific look that distinguishes them from North American Vera Bradley bags.

During the summer months, you will see many tank tops (men included) and flip flops worn by American tourists.  But during our trip in the spring of 2010 to Italy, I was beginning to notice Italian kids wearing flip flops; however, if you are a bit older than 25, purchase a nice pair of leather sandals for the summer heat. There are two problems with tank tops:  first, you will not be allowed in the churches and all churches in Italy are a must  to see (this rule also applies in Spain), secondly, men do not look good in tank tops at any age!  For women, if you are wearing a sleeveless top, purchase a lightweight scarf and keep it in your purse.  When you wish to visit a church, throw it over your shoulders and you will be allowed to enter. I also did this when I was in Jerusalem so I was covered each time I visited a sacred place.

 I rest my case!
Well, what sort of shoes should I wear, you ask?  Driving loafers.  My husband and I own a number of pairs and they look good and are comfortable for long distance walking.  We usually walk about 15 miles or more a day when we travel so our shoes must be able to handle it.

Driving Loafers


Eating:
Europeans do not eat while driving or while walking down the street.  They consider this bad form.  North Americans are used to eating on the run but let's face it, our lifestyle has not been good for our waistlines.  Think of the European lifestyle as one you shared with your family when you were young.  My grandparents were European so meal time was sacred.  Time was spent preparing food and we ate together as a family.  This ritual served us well and few of us had weight problems.
Europeans take food very seriously.  So much love and time is spent preparing dishes which are shared with family and friends. They believe that one should stop all activities at meal time which allows one to slow down and enjoy. 
You can purchase food on the street but make sure you sit on a bench and take your time to enjoy it.  The parks and architecture in Europe are so beautiful and this creates a perfect opportunity to relax and observe the life our grandparents shared with us.
Restaurants:  If you ask the concierge for a restaurant suggestion, he/she will send you to a restaurant that caters to tourists.  Now if this is what you want, then take the advice.  We prefer to eat where local residents dine so we can practice speaking the local language and learn the colloquialisms.  Immersing myself in the culture of Italy, France, Spain, Hungary,etc. is my way of really getting to know everything about the people and their customs. 
Another Ugly American story?  "How come I can't get American food anywhere?"  Give me a break!
Hint: Some of the best and cheapest food is found in little out-of-the-way places far from high traffic areas. 
Language:
Come on, folks, don't let me hear you say, "How come nobody speaks English around here?"  Here are some helpful hints for speaking in countries where the language is different from yours:
Berlitz travel books:  I have been using these for years.  I study them and learn enough so I can order a meal, ask directions, order tickets for museums and concerts, ask for reservations at a hotel, shop in a clothing and grocery store.  If you try, people will do their best to accommodate you.
Some of us have a natural aptitude for languages and can learn them quite easily and duplicate the accent rather well.  But if you don't have these skills, don't worry - the local people will be thrilled that you are attempting to speak their language.
IPhone translators: During our last trip to Italy, I purchased a travel plan for my phone which allowed me to access my translator each time I needed it.  This really helped me build my vocabulary.  When I found a phrase on my translator that I knew I would use often, I copied and pasted it into my IPhone notepad for future use.  In the evening, I would re-read my Berlitz book and continue looking for phrases and words in my translator which also, by the way, will speak to you so you can hear the correct pronunciation.
I am much more comfortable with Spanish and Italian and my husband is more familiar with French.  I have a lot of trouble with German and the Slavic languages are difficult for me because the alphabet is different.  This is why a translator or Berlitz book is essential.

Safety Issues:
If you are lost and need to check a map, do not pull it out on the street and look at it.  Step into a store and look at it away from prying eyes.  There are pickpockets in major European cities (in particular - Spain and Italy) so be careful.
If you just carry a wallet, carry it in your front pocket.  Never carry a lot of cash and clean out your wallet of unnecessary cards before leaving home.
As stated above, dress like the locals so you don't stand out.
Don't eat on the street.  It's gauche and it will also single you out as a North American.
Have a cell phone that is a quad phone.  You never know when you may need to contact someone in case of emergency.
Don't walk away from your luggage or purse.  My husband is still the trusting boy from Saskatchewan who after telling him dozens of times about safety issues, will walk away from our luggage which contains money and passports.  Recently, he purchased this great coat I saw advertised in the New York Times that looks terrific and has 50+ interior pockets.  It will even hold an IPad .  Problem solved unless we travel in the summer.  In this case, I carry all of our documents.

Travel safely and travel well!

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Driving in Italy.

We had heard over the years that one should not attempt driving in Italy- Italian drivers are crazy, they drive too fast, they take risky chances, etc.  But my very thorough husband researched this topic and asked Maven Joan's husband Ted about driving  in Italy-he reassured us that we would be safe.  Since we wanted to travel around the Tuscan countryside, one needs to have a car so we decided to follow Ted's advice and rented a car in Bologna.  I cannot drive a standard (it is much more expensive to rent an automatic) and I hate driving in general so I was the navigator and Jerry was the pilot. Once we drove onto the streets of Bologna, we felt completely at ease.  All of the horror stories we had heard disappeared as we leisurely drove on country roads or on the highway.  It was a piece of cake. 

Here is some advice:
You must rent your car in North America and pay in either American or Canadian funds.  The price is high because you must take the insurance.
Here is the website with all of the information regarding car rental and driving in Italy:
www.slowtrav.com/italy/driving/index.htm
This website has detailed aspects of Italian driving with several internal links.
For example:  make sure you know if your car takes gas or diesel when you rent it.  Do not rely on gas station attendants to know about your car.  Learn how to ask for gas in Italian.  It helps.

Maps and directions:
Download the European maps onto your GPS.  We used this often while trying to navigate our way from one city to another.  Sometimes the GPS will not locate a particular address.  In this case, I got a travel package for my IPhone.  The GPS device in it works really well and the little green bouncing ball will indicate if you are going in the right or wrong direction.

Have fun exploring!

Hotels and Restaurants I recommend in Northern Italy

We had the good fortune to stay in some fine hotels and apartments.  Although we had the misfortune of booking one hotel through a shady site (see previous post about Verona), all of the places we stayed were beautiful, clean and offered breakfast in charming breakfast rooms.  I have always loved the European breakfasts that are offered by hotels.  I wish they had something comparable in North America.

Here is the list of hotels and their cities:

Bologna:  Una Hotel Bologna; Viale Peitramellara 41/43
This hotel is very modern and really not to my taste but it was very nice and close to everything including the train station.  We chose to begin our road trip after here and found that the car rental company was a block away from the hotel.  There is a large, beautiful old hotel a short walk down the street that is incorporated into a lovely park.  We had the good fortune to visit this park one evening on our way home and listen to a wonderful orchestra playing for a private party on the terrace of this grand hotel.  In Italy, there is a treat around every corner.

Venice:  Molino Stucky Hilton; Guidecca 810
We chose to stay on a neighboring island instead of the main island of Venice.  This hotel is beautiful but does not offer a free breakfast.  Guidecca is quiet and has the same architecture and canals of Venice but is quaint.  Our hotel had free water taxi service to Venice so we never had to pay for transportation.

Lucca:  Hotel Ilaria; Via Del Fosso 26
This hotel was also recommended by Maven Joan Shapero and it is a must.  In fact, Lucca is a must.  The hotel is quaint, charming, and the staff is very accomodating.  In the main lobby, there is a snack bar that is always filled with cookies, pastries, espresso, water, wine.  The breakfast room has a beautiful outdoor patio and the selection of food items is excellent.  There is parking available.

Tellaro:  Locando Miranda; Via Fiascherino 92
Locando Miranda is a must.  Above is the view from our room"s balcony.  The town is very small but worth every minute.  The restaurant is a five-star fish restaurant but the prices are reasonable.  Breakfast is served in this charming dining room.  Parking is available.  Tellaro is a great place to stay while visiting Lerici, Portevenere and Cinque Terre.

Verona:  Hotel Accademia; Via Scala 12
This hotel is beautiful and the breakfast room is filled with exquisite treats.  It is here that we had the difficulty with the less-than-reputable booking agent but the hotel still found us a beautiful suite and could not have been more professional and kind.

Padua Hotel:  Grand Italia Hotel; Corso Del Popolo 81 (near train station)
Our room was not ready when we arrived so to accomodate us, they gave us a huge suite instead.  Okay, I'll take it!!  This room was more like an apartment.  Although the hotel and its rooms appear very modern, they have kept the original charm of the breakfast room which has 12 foot ceilings and sculpted ceiling medallions.
This location can be a bit dicey in the evening.  We were walking back to our hotel after dinner and a fight broke out between some of the African men who sell fake purses (you will see these men in nearly every city in Italy, with the exception of Verona).  This fight escalated with one man breaking a bottle and chasing the other man with it.  Time for Jerry and Pam to flee the scene!

Retaurants:
We ate in many fine restaurants in Italy but there are two that stand out for me.  While walking around Verona one afternoon, I stumbled upon a very attractive little restaurant on one of the many squares in Verona.  It was far away from the central area which appealed to me.  The menu was intriguing so I mentioned it to Jerry and we decided to spend our last night in Verona at Antica Torretta; Piazza Briolo 1. 
The service was extraordinary, the dishes were unique, the decor was stunning and the food was absolutely delicious.  And to top it off, the prices were extremely reasonable for a restaurant serving five star food.  There was one downside to this place - the bathrooms.  They were clean but in some of the restaurants in Verona, regardless of size, price, style, the toilets are porcelain plates on the ground which one must straddle.  Now, I have very poor balance and I was wearing heels at this time while attempting to use this contraption.  My advice?  Spend more time climbing hills in Verona to build up your leg muscles.  This activity will serve you well when attempting to use a washroom.

My next favorite restaurant was another one I stumbled upon in Bologna called Ristorante Il Moro; Via de Falegnami 5.
For lunch, I chose a cheese stuffed tortellini with a poppy seed butter sauce.  All I can say is that this meal was orgasmic!  One bite and I was singing its praises.  While walking around Bologna that day, all I could think about was that dish.  I could not get it out of my mind.  So we decided to have dinner there and although our lovely seasoned waiter (he served us during lunch too) tried to encourage me to sample something else from their extensive menu, I just had to have the tortellini again.  I wasn't disappointed.  I now make it at home but mine is not as good because I don't make my own tortellini and as I've mentioned before, the fresh ingredients in Italy make all the difference in the taste of the food.

Buon Appetito!!

Firenze!!

Everyone loves Florence because it is beautiful, elegant, historically important and filled with charm and mystery around each corner.

We chose Florence as our final destination.  As much as I hated to leave Cecina, Florence was worth the wait.   Since we were in Florence the second week of June, it was very hot and I missed the sea but our apartment had air conditioning so this helped. We drove to the Florence airport (another post will discuss driving in Italy) and dropped our car off.  Driving in Florence is a finely tuned skill, one I did not wish to learn any time soon.  There are major boulevards but many of the streets are narrow and one-way; hence, very confusing.  Once you have learned your way around the neighborhood, it is an easy walking city but driving?  Forget it.

Our landlord, the amazing Laura Merlini,  http://www.welcome2tuscany.it met us at our beautiful apartment on the less touristy side of the Arno River in Florence in an area called Oltrarno. This area is quiet, filled with students, beautiful shops, churches, the Pitti Palace and Gucci headquarters (more on it later).  It was fashion week while we were in Florence so the city was teeming with fashion folks and beautifully decorated windows with outlandish designs by high school students who study fashion design.  For example, the antique stores may have a window showcasing a beautiful antique and a mannequin with a highly creative design made by a student.  Window shopping had never been so interesting.  One of my favorite windows belonged to a hair salon.  The mannequin was extremely tall and the dress was made out of colored hair rollers that fell to the ground creating a train of rollers.  It was truly exciting to see such uninhibited creativity.

Roller Dress
There are many beautiful churches (it's Italy!!) but do not ignore the churches that have plain exteriors.  These churches have the most beautiful interiors.  The church in our neighborhood was stunning and its piazza was surrounded by restaurants, shoemakers and an outdoor market.  On the last day of school,
(school-age children attend school 6 days a week; 8-noon) the students gathered on the bridges, piazzas and had their traditional water fight.  They filled bottles and splashed each other until they were so exhausted, then flopped on the steps of the churches resembling drunken sailors.

Santa Spirito, our neighborhood church and site of student water fights

We had been told not to miss the monks from the church on the hill, San Mianato al Monte who chant Gregorian chants in the same manner as they have in this church for 1000 years.  They do this everyday at precisely 5:30P.M.  We climbed the very steep steps to a landing, Piazzale Michelangelo which allows one to see Florence from a bird's eye view.  We continued to climb up to the church and sat in the lower sanctuary, listening to the monks chant.  I imagined myself sitting in the same spot as one would have done 1000 years before me experiencing this same sound.  After the service, we walked around the area behind the church where large homes overlooked the city.  Vineyards are abundant below the park area behind the church and Florentine palazzi dot the landscape in the distance.

San Mianato al Monte
View on the ascent to Piazzale Michelangelo

Let's talk shopping!

Florence is a fashion and leather capital.  The towns surrounding Florence produce the finest leather goods in the world.  Everywhere you look in Florence there are leather stores.  We visited a number of markets but the largest one is San Lorenzo.  Needless to say, I bought a number of bags and I love to bargain in Italian with the merchants.  It is so much fun.  I must say that by the time I reached Florence, my Italian had greatly improved.  Bargaining in the market is a skill which I perfected when I was in Jerusalem.   Before I buy anything, I look at all of the products and stores before I purchase.  I am not an impulsive shopper and I knew the type of purse and style of shoes I was looking for.  I had seen a purse in Milan that I loved but I kept telling myself that I would wait until I reached Florence and I am so glad I did.

Jerry and I were crossing one of the many bridges to the busier side of the Arno when I noticed a locally owned leather store called Giotti that specializes in braided purses.  Florence seems to specialize in braided leather (Bottega Veneta, a Milanese-based company, is a very expensive brand that specializes in this design) and I love this look which is called intrecciato. But this look is actually specific to the Veneto region of northern Italy.   As I stood outside the Giotti store (http://www.giotti.com/), I saw the bags I had been waiting for.  They looked very expensive (Bottega Veneta bags can cost on an average of 6200.00) but Jerry urged me to go inside and look.  He was so right.  The bags were perfect and I found one that was half price so I bought it on the spot, (not to worry, it was not half of 6200.00).  I love this bag and carry it everyday for work.  According to Laura Merlini, Florentine women know where the factories are located outside of Florence and purchase their handbags there for very reasonable prices.  I will do this the next time I am in Florence.

If you would like to learn more about Bottega Veneta and the century-old tradition of their braided bags, read the recent article about them and their designer-in-residence, Tomas Maier in
The New Yorker http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2011/01/03/110103fa_fact_colapinto


Since we had an apartment, I cooked most of our meals.  I loved shopping in the market for fresh ingredients so we rarely ate out unless it was near lunch time and we weren't close to the apartment.  I had asked my landlord, Laura, if she could recommend anyone who would teach me to cook a Tuscan meal and speak Italian with me.  Laura volunteered and we had the loveliest morning.  She arrived at the apartment and we proceeded to walk to San Lorenzo market where besides leather stalls, has an extraordinary indoor food market.  Laura is a third generation Florentine and knows the city and its history well.  She pointed out historic buildings that Jerry and I had missed and explained the relevance of the design as well as the history of each building. Once we arrived at the market, Laura took me to all of her favorite merchants and showed me how to select the ingredients for our Pappa al Pomodoro.  One merchant sold Tuscan bread, meat and cheeses.  Laura told him what we were making and he chose the correct bread for our dish (the bread must not be fresh).  He then proceeded to combine ingredients for me to taste:  a paper thin cracker with parmigiano, tuscan prociutto and a candied lemon.  He then offered me the same combination with a Parma procuitto.  The combination of these flavors was extraordinary.  Laura was impressed that I could order what I needed in Italian without resorting to any English.  Had I remained in Italy for another month, I am confident I would have been able to converse with little assistance from my IPhone translator.
I have tried to duplicate this recipe at home but without much luck.  The secret is in the bread and our North American Italian breads are just not the same.  When Tuscan bread is mixed with a liquid, the consistency is more of a lumpy couscous.  This holds the soup together without that wet, gummy texture of North American Italian breads.

Now for my Gucci story:



Gucci Headquarters

Two days prior to our departure, we had spoken to some cab drivers who informed us that we would have no trouble getting a cab on the morning we planned on leaving for Canada.  LIE!!  We were packed the night before and left our apartment at 7:45A.M.  I stood on the narrow sidewalk with our luggage while Jerry walked to cafe to use the phone and call a cab.  Each time Jerry called, the cab dispatcher hung up on him.  The cafe owner called - same thing.  Jerry continued to try and I was trying to flag down a cab but they do not stop for people on the street.  It is against the law for a cab to stop for a person on the street; one must call for a cab.  Our flight left at 10:00A.M. and it was now 9:00A.M. and needless to say, we were panicking.  The window washer on the street also tried to help us but he was informed that there were no cabs available because it was Fashion Week and all of the fashion personnel were occupying the cabs.  The window washer suggested we go to the Gucci headquarters around the corner and ask for one of their cabs.  So Jerry ran to Gucci and arrived back in a cab which got us to our flight just in time.  The people at Gucci were very kind and after hearing Jerry's story, offered him one of their cabs.  Gotta love Gucci.

Jerry and I still miss Italy and cannot wait to return.  The people, the culture, the food, the architecture, the landscapes, the sea make this country the most glorious place on earth.  Paris is still my favorite city but Italy is home.