Home in Halmstad

My mother's parents played a key role in my life.  I spent nearly as much time in their home as I did in my own.  I loved listening to Grandma's stories about her childhood, her sister Marta who died at the age of 10 and her beloved sister Naemi, the only sibling to remain in Halmstad, Sweden, Grandma's place of birth.  Each time I visited her and Grandpa Gustave, we would take out the little leather-bound photo album that contained the visual memories of her family; each person frozen in time, retaining the innocent glow of a perfect, yet simple life in a little seaside town called Halmstad.

Grandma

Naemi and Marta

The Photo Album

 Once Grandma married and had Mom, she never returned to Halmstad.  It was a decision that pained her deeply but circumstances did not allow her the benefit of seeing Naemi and her children before Grandma passed away.  Mom and Dad visited Aunt Naemi in the eighties and although I never had the opportunity to meet my aunt, whom I felt I knew intimately from Grandma's stories, I had pledged that I would meet Naemi's family while I was still healthy enough to travel.

Eva Martenson

For the past two years, I have been corresponding (via Facebook)with Eva Martensen, Naemi's daughter-in-law.  Since Mom is no longer well enough to navigate the Internet, I happily took the reins as family correspondent and genealogist.  When the doctor read about the conference in Stockholm, I asked if we could spare a few days to travel to Halmstad.  This did not require discussion - he was happy to accommodate me.  Finally, I was going to make the trip that Grandma so desperately wanted to do.  Throughout the short flight between Stockholm and Halmstad, I carried Grandma in my heart so I could share each precious moment with her.

Jan Martenson

We arrived at the airport in Halmstad and were greeted by Eva and my cousin Jan (Eva's husband) who looks exactly like Grandma's brother Joel.  The warm hugs we received pressed Grandma's history deep inside my chest where Grandma was waiting to receive the love of her family.  It was good to be home.
Jan and Eva drove us directly to their home in the countryside outside of Halmstad.  The farm, where they previously lived and still keep their sheep, is now owned and occupied by their son, my other amazing cousin, Mats and his two sons.

Mats and I with one of his 100 or so motorbikes

The homes are typical of Swedish country architecture: red or a muted yellow-gold with batten board siding.  I fell in love with this quaint look which was always replicated in Grandma's crocheted designs.  Once inside Jan and Eva's home, I was surrounded by more Gustavian delights.  The home has many beautiful family treasures.  The house is heated by a floor-to-ceiling ceramic stove that I have previously seen in European palaces but is common in Swedish homes.  In fact, our hotel room also had one of these beautiful ceramic beasts.

from left: Ulla, me, Eva, Jan, Mille

Once we were settled and greeted by the two dogs, Eva and I sat at the dining room table to look at the family photos I brought from Canada and the photos she had of the Olson/Martenson clan.  Before long, we were interrupted by a steady stream of relatives arriving from down the road and from Gothenburg.  Now, for the first time, I was meeting my cousin Mille (who looks like my Grandma) and his wife Ulla.  They were followed by Mats and his partner Annika carrying trays and trays of Swedish delights.  Eating this meal with my family was the most extraordinary experience.  The food was delicious and the conversation was as comforting as the familiar foods.  When the conversation was spoken in Swedish, my cousin Mille would ask, "do you understand what we are saying?"  I replied that I knew some of the words but just listening to them speak with a Halmstad dialect made me feel as though I was wrapped with the warmth of their words.  The ability to understand was irrelevant.
At the end of the evening, the doctor and I retired to our hotel room.  We had chosen to stay in another Clarion hotel which also served both breakfast and dinner.  Most of our dinners were eaten at Eva and Jan's home but we shared one meal with them at the hotel and it was very good.  This hotel did not have a bar so we couldn't have wine with dinner, but since we are not big drinkers, there was no loss.  BUT THE ROOM--I need to tell you about our room.
If you read the Stockholm blog entry, you will remember that our room there was very small.  But the room we were given in Halmstad was a suite. It was the size of a small apartment with a separate living room, bedroom, large bathroom with a whirlpool tub and a stunning floor-to-ceiling ceramic stove.  The view outside our window was of the main park in Halmstad where my grandmother walked as a young girl.  This was definitely the way to end this three city trip!

Slottsmollan

Interior of Slottmollan

The next day, Eva, Jan, Ulla, and Mille took us on a tour of Halmstad.  Our first stop was Slottsmollan, a large brick complex that was once a dye and paper factory built in 1823.  It was here that my great-grandfather Nils worked as a blacksmith.  The building has been lovingly restored and is filled with 100 companies with a wide range of interests.  Walking through the building gave me a sense of life in Halmstad during the 19th century and early 20th century when Grandma and her siblings were young.

Halmstad city core

Once we finished our tour of Slottsmollan, Eva drove us to the centre of town which is a delightful mix of old and new.  I wasn't sure what to expect of the central core since all of the photos I had seen of Halmstad remained frozen at the turn of the 20th century.  But it is a surprisingly modern little town with boutiques, (yes, another H&M), and trendy restaurants ensconced in ancient buildings; some as old as the 14th century.

We stopped for lunch at a restaurant in a former fire station.  The food was delicious and the crowd was young and very hip.  It was hard to imagine my religious little grandmother co-existing in a town with teens sporting tattoos and piercings.  Halmstad has certainly kept up with the times.

Home of Mayor of Halmstad

Mille and Jan standing in front of their paternal grandparents' home on the oldest street in Halmstad

After lunch, we continued our walking tour and were directed to a street that has the oldest remaining homes in Halmstad.  These tiny little 14th century houses are well-maintained and fully occupied.  Eva mentioned that there had been some discussion about tearing them down, but sanity prevailed and they remain as a reminder and testament to the struggle of Halmstad Swedes to break free from the Danish king.

St. Nicholas Church

After leaving this area, we found ourselves in front of St. Nicholas Church which was begun in the 14th century.  It was here that my Grandmother and her siblings were baptized and attended services until she left for America.  Mille and Jan were also baptized here.  Once inside this beautiful church, I felt Grandma's presence with me.  She had been raised in a very strict Lutheran family and her faith had remained strong until her death.  I knew that her spirit had found its way back here and it was at this moment, I knew she was with me.  Tears fell quickly as I sat on the front pew with her.  Eva suggested that we light candles in memory of Grandma and her sister Naemi.  It was the right thing to do.

Interior of church

It was now time to pay our respects to the dead.

Eva placing flowers on the graves of my great-grandparents

We drove to the main cemetery in Halmstad where three generations of Olson/Martensons are buried.  Prior to our arrival here, Eva and Jan stopped at a beautiful flower shop to purchase flowers for each grave.  Once there, we placed flowers on the graves of Aunt Naemi and her husband Emil, Great-grandparents Nils and Augusta Olson, as well as the graves of my great-great grandparents, and the children who did not survive:  Marta and Enoch.  I knew that Grandma would want us here paying respect to her loved ones.
We finished our tour with a trip to the North Beach.  Halmstad is buzzing with activity in the summer because of the beautiful sand beaches at the edge of the sea.  However, since it was November, we had the sand and shells all to ourselves.

Gathering shells to take home

After three glorious days in Halmstad, it was time to return to Canada.  We had a long flight ahead of us and were eager to get home and see our little Poppy but our visit was much too short.  Jan and Eva drove us to the airport and we said our goodbyes.  I hope that they will visit us in North America so Mom and Dad can see them again before Mom's memory is completely gone.

Jan and Mille

Family is a blessed gift.  I am grateful that I have two wonderful families:  my biological family and my adopted family.  Each has given me such important gifts that have made me who I am today.  I treasure my time in both worlds and I will always remember my pilgrimage to Halmstad.  Eva and Jan were such gracious hosts and we will relive our time in Halmstad over and over; for me, for Mom and for Grandma.  Home is definitely where the heart is.

Hotel:
Clarion Collection Hotel Norre Park

Norra vagen 7  Halmstad, Sweden
035-21 85 55
Phone:+46 (0) 35 21 85 55

Places of Interest:

Slottsmollan

Fastighets

AB Villa Ekebo 302 31 Halmstad

St. Nicholas Church
Center of town
035-282 2060

Online photos of Halmstad

http://www.worldtravelimages.net/Halmstad_City.html

www.slottmollan.se

Stuck on Stockholm

Dala horses

I was raised in a Swedish-American environment in Rochester, New York and hoped that someday, I would visit Sweden and connect with my mother's family.  My parents visited in the eighties and had the opportunity to meet my mother's relatives who did not emigrate to the United States.  After seeing  photos of my family in Sweden, I was struck by the resemblance to our kin in Rochester.  There was no doubt that they were related to us.  I was intrigued by my cousin Tim, who lives outside of Stockholm.  He is a costume designer who designs for celebrities and the Swedish Royal family.  After my mother met him, she said, "you would love Tim.  You two have so much in common."  This gave me more incentive to visit Sweden.

And so begins my journey to the homeland - the land of the midnight sun, Dala horses, and tomte.  
The doctor had a conference in Stockholm so I asked him if he wouldn't mind cancelling our plans to visit San Francisco in favour of Sweden.  He knew how much I wanted to meet my Swedish relatives so the plans changed and Sweden became our destination.  After four lovely days in Amsterdam, we flew to Stockholm, the Venice of the North.
I had watched the Steig Larsson trilogy (the Swedish films, not the new American adaptations) and fell in love with Stockholm.  I also have had a love affair with Gustavian furniture and interiors for quite some time and this trip would allow me to view Gustavian in its natural environment with the correct northern light.  But the most important aspect of this trip was that I was finally going to meet my amazing cousin Tim.
The doctor made a reservation at the Clarion Collection Hotel Wellington on Storgatan in Ostermalm.
This hotel chain is fantastic and a must when staying in the most expensive city in the world.  Clarion offers a free breakfast and dinner and the dining room and adjacent lounge are cosy.  Swedes tend to use candles often which added to the ambiance of this sweet little space for meals.  The food was very good and the 24 hour cappuccino machine, tea assortment and cookies were a bonus.  The tidy room was the size of a dorm room but the bathroom was larger and modern.  There was very little room to hang clothing so we were forced to keep our clothes in suitcases.  However, robes were provided and the view from our balcony was breathtaking.  If the weather had been warmer, we would have spent more time sitting on this balcony in the evening, and by evening, I mean 5PM.  Yes, Stockholm is pitch black at 5PM in November.

Theatre

We had a few days to explore Stockholm before we met Tim for dinner.  Stockholm is a very walkable city.  I was surprised at the enormity of many of the buildings.  It certainly is a world class city.  We wandered across one of the many bridges into Old Town or Gamla Stan.  The town dates back to the 13th century, and consists of medieval alleyways, cobbled streets, and archaic architecture. Northern German architecture has had a strong influence in the Old Town's construction.

Stortorget is the name of the scenic large square in the centre of

Gamla Stan

Gamla Stan, which is surrounded by old merchants' houses including the Stockholm Stock Exchange Building. The square was the site of the Stockholm Bloodbath, where Swedish noblemen were massacred by the Danish King Christian II in November, 1520. As well as being home to the Stockholm Cathedral (a must), the Nobel Museum, and the Riddarholm church, Gamla stan also boasts Kungliga slottet, Sweden's baroque Royal Palace, built in the 18th century after the previous palace Tre Kronor burned down. The    House of Nobility (Riddarhuset) is on the north-western corner of Gamla stan.

Royal Palace

A tour of the Royal Palace is a must.  The rooms open to the public are very grand and the Hall of State with the solid silver throne is very impressive.  If you look directly above this magnificent throne, you will see plumage fashioned in a very artistic manner.  The original plumage was rather old and in need of replacement.  A call to my fabulous cousin Tim was made and he designed a new plumage canopy just in time for Princess Victoria's wedding.  Just thought I would add the family plug!
Although Gamla Stan is filled with touristy shops, don't let this stop you from exploring the charming narrow streets and eating the outstanding herring (sil) offered in the trendy little restaurants such as the one where we stopped for lunch called Ej Kvitto.  The sil we had for lunch had the texture of velvet and the flavour of my Grandma's sil which will always be my favourite. Everyone speaks English in Sweden so don't worry if you are unfamiliar with Swedish cuisine.  Swedes are friendly and happy to explain the various foods to you.

With the exception of one dinner, we sampled the local cuisine during lunch.  The best meal was at Saluhall in Ostermalm about two blocks from our hotel.  This indoor food market was bustling with activity.  Locals were buying local fish and meat to take home but most people, including us, were scanning the various restaurants for a sit-down lunch.

Saluhall

We chose Tysta Mari and I am still thanking my lucky stars that I made the right choice.  I ate a fish soup that had large chunks of white fish floating in a yummy tomato broth.  I asked my cousin Ulla for a recipe and am waiting for her letter.  There is nothing that compares to food made with fresh ingredients.  I am not a huge fan of fish if it tastes fishy.  But the fish in Stockholm is brought in daily from the sea and when seasoned properly, the experience attacks all of the senses throughout the body.  I did not want to stop eating that soup, in fact, I was so depressed when I saw the bottom of my bowl.  Oh sure, I could have ordered a second bowl, but I was full and didn't want to appear like a total a loser!

Since we had eaten most of our meals at the hotel, we were ready for a night on the town.  My cousin Tim arrived at the hotel at exactly 4PM.  Swedes are very prompt and if they tell you they will be there at 4:01, you better be ready at 4:01.  Being prompt was drilled into my head at a very young age so I am always ready on time.  Once I saw Tim in the lobby, we squealed and hugged as if we hadn't seen each other in some time rather than meeting for the first time.  And he was everything I had expected and more.

Tim and me

We sat in the lobby for about an hour looking at family photos so he could see what the family in Rochester looked liked.  He was struck by the strong resemblance to the family in the states and in particular, how much he looks like my cousin Joey and his sons.  Of course, since Tim is a costume designer, he pays careful attention to his own attire.  Let's just say he is the coolest person on the planet!
And since he is the coolest, he chose the best restaurant in Stockholm for our dinner.  Now choosing the top restaurants comes with all kinds of perks but since Stockholm is ubër expensive, it was also the most expensive restaurant in the city.  But cost didn't matter since I was spending time with the cousin I had longed to meet for the past 25 years.
We walked to the restaurant which allowed Tim to give us a walking tour of his adopted city.  Once we reached the palace, he told us about his time there and the work he had done for the Royal family.  He also directed us to where he once lived in the neighbourhood of Sodermalm which is the very hip area of Stockholm.

Sodermalm and tower where we ate dinner

Sodermalm

We had wandered around this neighborhood the day before and were thrilled with the number of interesting little restaurants and shops with clothing by young designers - just my cup of tea.  When we finally arrived at the restaurant Erik's Gondolen,  which was located in this neighbourhood on the top floor of a very tall building, the doctor had a bird's eye view of Stockholm and was able to capture some great night time shots.  Erik is a world renowned chef and the menu did not disappoint.  We could see the lights of Stockholm while the doctor and I savoured the local sil resting in various sauces.  Tim had the toast with bleak roe from Kalix, red onion, crème fraiche and lemon.  According to Tim, the best caviar comes from Kalix and after tasting it, I can say that it was the best caviar I've ever had.  I chose the deer entree and let me tell you, deer in Sweden tastes nothing like venison in North America.  There is no gamey taste and it can be served medium rare.  The meal was exceptional from beginning to end and of course, the time spent with Tim was worth the price of this meal (and don't ask how expensive it was, just take my word for it).
It was hard to say goodbye to Tim at the end of the evening.  But he had to return home to his little village outside of Stockholm because he was creating costumes for a famous singer's back-up dancers who would be performing in a couple of nights on, get ready; Swedish Idol.  We watched the show so we could see his work and I must admit, I really liked Swedish Idol.  And of course, Tim's creations were gorgeous.
Places worth a visit:
Everyone we spoke to told us to visit the Vasa Museum.  It is definitely worth a visit and it is a short tram ride from the downtown core to the museum area.  You can also walk there by crossing one of the bridges that links the mainland to one of the many islands.  I love museums but to see a ship, built in 1625, that has been raised piece by piece from the bottom of the sea and carefully rebuilt and restored is  impressive.
I urge everyone to take a tour of City Hall and see where they hold the Nobel Prize dinner and ball each year.  I have always loved Carrara marble from Italy, but this building is covered in Swedish marble that has the most beautiful coloration.  If I ever redo another room, I am using this marble.  One room, where the ball is held, is called the Gold Room because it is covered in gold.  I learned a great deal about Swedish history and the history of its capital during this tour.  I highly recommend it.

exterior of City Hall courtyard

Blue Room where Nobel Prize winners enter from the grand staircase

Gold Room

Of course, how could one visit any capital city without seeing the palace-Kungliga slottet).  One can see King Gustav's fascination with 18th century French interiors which created the Gustavian aesthetic.  The royal carriages are much more beautiful than those belonging to Queen Elizabeth.
Once again, we chose a hotel in an area that provided me with all of the eye candy necessary to feed my clothing and designing needs.  I did not purchase anything because of the cost of clothing is much higher than other places in the world; however, the window shopping was enough to satisfy me.  I was interested to see how many H&M stores I could find within a city block since Stockholm is the home of this funky chain.  I found the perfect corner in the main shopping district that had an H&M on all four corners.  This is the equivalent of the over saturation of Starbucks in North America.  But my browsing goal was to find the design district and the plethora of Gustavian furniture.  Well, lo and behold, it was right around the corner from my hotel.  If one strolls along Karlaväven and the streets near it, Gustavian furniture is everywhere including antiques and reproductions.  I was in Gustavian heaven!  Two stores in particular that caught my eye were Fogelmarck and Solgården.  From luscious dining rooms sets to Mora clocks, these establishments represent the cream of the crop.  The subtle blues, greys, and milky whites used on these pieces would look stunning in any home and as I said earlier, are enhanced by the northern light of Sweden.  I would love a Mora clock but will most likely purchase one in Hudson, New York where many of the shops specialize in Gustavian decor.

After 5 glorious days in Stockholm and the experience of a real Swedish sauna in our hotel, we caught another flight to Halmstad, the city of my grandmother's birth and home of Tim's family.  The dream of being in Halmstad finally becomes a reality.

Hotel:

Clarion Hotel Wellington.  Address: Storgatan 6 (in upscale Ostermalm district)


Restaurants:
Tysta Mari (Saluhall)

Östermalms Saluhall
114 42 Stockholm
Phone: 08-662 60 36
info@tystamari.se


Ej Kvitto (Gamla Stan)
sorry, can't locate the address.

Eriks Gondolen  (Katarinahissen Tower)
Stadsgården 6
Box 151 55, 104 65 Stockholm
+46(0) 641 70 90
www.eriks.se

Shopping for Gustavian Treasures:
Solgården
Karlavägen 58, 114 49
Stockholm
08-663-93 60
www.solgarden.se

Fogelmarck
Karlavägen 74, SE-114 59
Stockholm
08-662 63 21
www.fogelmarck.se

Amsterdam is Dope!!

Okay, okay, I know that was a cheesy way to get your attention, but now that you're here, let me tell you about my recent time in Amsterdam.
Amsterdam is a city of contradictions.  It is a beautiful city full of history; yet, very progressive in terms of its acceptance of vices that are forbidden in other countries.  Let's face it, everyone knows that Amsterdam has liberal laws regarding pot and prostitution but I was also quite astonished to see how westernized it is.  This was somewhat disappointing for me, because if I want to go to McDonald's or shop at an American retail chain, I would drive to Syracuse.  That said, I still loved Amsterdam and the Dutch lifestyle even if they do bow to American consumerism.

Memphis Hotel

We stayed at the Memphis Hotel which was a block away from the main area for shopping and eating.  It was also near the Central Park of Amsterdam called Vondelpark. This neighbourhood felt like the West Village in NYC - independent clothing designers, great restaurants, bakeries and beautiful architecture.  I prefer not to stay in areas that are saturated with tourists and Oud-Zuid met my expectations.  We found three darling restaurants that served fusion Dutch, Indonesian, Italian food that was scrumptious.

Three different views of Vondelpark

Restaurants

After a long flight, we didn't want to venture too far away from the hotel so we randomly chose a restaurant in our neighbourhood.  Either my instincts are really great or my luck is outstanding because I found the perfect restaurant.  Around the corner from the hotel, we saw a beautiful restaurant called Brasserie DeJoffers .  The menu looked very interesting so we decided to take a chance.  The patio was still open and heated which allowed us to savour a few more moments of early fall weather. Since this was my first time in Amsterdam, I was not aware of the generous food portions so I ordered an appetizer and entree and was too full to finish one of the most delicious Indonesian fusion meals known to humankind.  Mushroom soup is a staple in Amsterdam so we made sure that we ordered it.  However, this appetizer was a full bowl instead of a cup and we still had our main courses waiting for us.  Now, I have had mushroom soup in the past and let me tell you, Maven Joan makes a mean mushroom soup, but this soup was good enough to bathe in.  Someone should tell the patrons of the "coffee shops" in Old Town that this mushroom soup is the new drug and I NEED MY FIX!

My entree was Dutch sausage called ossenworst which is essentially beef tartare saturated with a mouth-watering peanut sauce.  Well, I thought the mushroom soup could not be topped but I was wrong.  Once that meat met my tastebuds, I was transformed into Rachel Ray:"Yummo!"  Where have I been all my life that I have not experienced such orgasmic food?  I never thought anything could compare with the tortellini and butter sauce in Bologna but this restaurant is worth a red-eye flight to Amsterdam for a weekend filled with noshing.

After riding our bikes around Amsterdam (more on my disasterous biking experience later), we decided to have lunch at a little cafe in our neighbourhood.  Downstairs housed a bakery with mouth-watering Dutch baked goods and upstairs was a trendy little restaurant that served food that was both intriguing and delicious.  Unfortunately, I cannot find the receipt and am unable to tell you the name of this place. However, if I stumble across it, I will gladly pass it on.

But if you find yourself in need of a good meal after visiting the museums, you will find such a place across the street from museum row at the corner of Willemsparkweg and Van Baerlestr called Small Talk.  Yes, the name is in English as are many establishments in Amsterdam.  The decor is not noteworthy but the food is devine.  What did we eat?  You guessed it:  mushroom soup and Indonesian sateh with peanut sauce and it was worth the trip from plate to mouth.  Did it compare with DeJoffers?  No, but it was definitely good.
There are Indonesian restaurants everywhere in Amsterdam but we chose to eat at Aneka Rasa which is located in Old Town.  We did not seek out this restaurant, rather, stumbled upon it while strolling through this bizarre little neighbourhood.  The menu seemed traditional enough so we decided to take a chance.  Another winner!  This restaurant offers traditional Ris Taffel which is similar to tapas.  A variety of little dishes are delivered and each one was distinctive and very savoury.  Once again, due to the amount of food, I could not finish my meal but I would definitely return here for the food, good service and interesting location.
The final restaurant worth mentioning is Restaurant De Knijp which is also located in the Oud Zuid neighbourhood.  There were a number of trendy restaurants on this street but this one was recommended by our concierge so we decided to try it.  Normally, I am hesitant to rely on a concierge because they usually recommend a restaurant that caters to tourists and I prefer a place that is frequented by the locals. But since our hotel was a boutique hotel and not located in a tourist trap neighbourhood, I trusted their advice. Restaurant De Knijp is a very hip restaurant that gets high marks for decor, ambiance, cool patrons, great service, and food that was equal to a religious experience.  The doctor ordered the daily special of three game meats and I chose the rabbit from the regular menu.  Since we had learned our lesson from previous restaurants, we chose not to order any starters even though the selection was very tempting.  The young lovebirds sitting next to us, must have heard us cooing about our food and said that this was their first time at this restaurant and they would return because of the great food.  Enough said.
So except for two meals eaten in Old Town, we preferred the restaurants in Oud Zuid, in fact, we preferred everything about Oud Zuid.
Cycling in Amsterdam:
Our hotel rented bikes to its guests.  We took this as a sign that if we were really going to experience Amsterdam life, we should do it on a bike.

The doctor and I were amazed that an international city like Amsterdam has relatively little traffic.  This is due to the use of bikes.  There are designated bike lanes everywhere in Amsterdam and the rules must be learned or one is in deep trouble.  Our concierge told us to stay to the right but he did not elaborate.  Unfortunately, we learned the other rules the hard way.  For our first venture out into the streets of Amsterdam, we chose to ride around our quiet neighbourhood and through Vondelpark.  This park is just breathtaking and it was easy to learn how to ride safely in Amsterdam while gazing at the duck-filled ponds and grand homes that surround the park.  Here are some of the cycling rules we learned during our stay in Amsterdam:
Rule Number One: stay to the right.  One must ride on the right hand side of the bike path so those who are in a hurry (this applies to all residents of Amsterdam) can pass on the left.  The speeders will ring their bike bells and if you don't move quickly enough, will tell you to move.  Unlike rude North Americans, the Dutch will never raise their voices or scream obscenities at you (at least I don't think they were swearing at me!).
Rule Number Two:  don't walk in the bike lane.  You are asking for trouble if you do.  The bell will ring, you will be verbally notified and if that fails, you will be run over.  The Dutch mean business when it comes to cycling.
Rule Number Three: Don't follow the examples of Dutch riders when crossing the street.  They ride right through lights, traffic, barricades - essentially anything that could prevent them from getting from point A to point B in ten minutes.  We tried to follow one rider through a light and nearly lost our lives.  Thank goodness car traffic is light!
Rule Number Four: The Dutch know these streets and have been riding on them since they were children so don't think that you can behave in the same manner.  The Dutch will talk on the phone, hold an umbrella, and carry their children on their bikes while dodging traffic with seamless effort.  Tourists should not do any of this and should stop at all lights, look in all four directions before venturing out again.  I was not planning on talking on the phone, holding an umbrella or carting a small child on my bike but when I did stop at one point, I attempted to get back on my bike and ride away without looking in all four directions.  Before I knew it, the Dutch Lance Armstrong was on my right side and knocked me off my bike.  I fell into the street, cut my knee open, and developed an immediate fear of bike riding.  Although the Dutch are daredevil riders, they are also very kind.  Many people stopped to help me, including Lance, making sure I was okay before they continued on with their day.
Rule Number Five: Do not screw with these bikers!  Need I tell you why?

Museums:
Since I am a history teacher who specializes in the Holocaust, I seek out museums which have some connection to this topic.  Amsterdam did not disappoint since it was knee-deep in the Holocaust.  But since the Canadians and Dutch Resistance were instrumental in the survival of many Jews, Amsterdam has three very specific museums which focus on this:

Anne Frank House Museum

Dutch Resistance Museum

Jewish Historic Museum

Most people have heard of the Anne Frank museum but these other two museums are top notch and worth a visit. The information I received from these museums will form the foundation of the new unit I will teach about the Dutch Jews, Resistance, and the involvement of Canadian soldiers.
I also highly recommend the Portuguese Synagogue which is near the Jewish Historical Museum.  The Dutch Jews are primarily of Sephardi origin so their history and culture vary slightly from the Ashkenazim Jews of Eastern Europe.


Canals:
Amsterdam is known as a city of canals.  Its historical relevance as an international port and centre of finance and diamonds is reflected in the design of its clocks from the 16th century.  On top of these highly prized clocks, one can see Atlas holding up the world, indicating Amsterdam's importance during this time.            
Why is it importance that I mention this?  Because once again, I was embarrassed by a few American tourists who shared our transportation from the airport to the center of the city.  This is a sample of the conversation between these four individuals:
Man:  We just came from Paris and it was horrible.  No one would speak English to us.  They just hate Americans there.
Woman:  I know.  We hate Paris too.  They did the same thing to us.  They are so rude and hate Americans.  We tried to talk to people but no one would speak English to us.
Man:  (looking out window).  Hey, look at the river!
Need I say more?  For those of us who actually learn something about a country before we travel or attempt to speak the language where English is not universally used, this kind of behaviour is embarrassing.  We, along with the young woman from Britain (who was sitting next to us) smirked, and I bit my tongue preventing me from saying something to these ignoramuses.

I strongly recommend taking a canal ride for three reasons:  It is very relaxing and you can see the beautiful Dutch architecture from one of the primary sources of transportation.  Also, you are experiencing the history of Amsterdam by using its original mode of travel.  Last, you can have a much better view of the extraordinary houseboats that line the edges of the canals.  These are year-round homes and each one is strangely beautiful in its own way and are so much a part of Amsterdam's funky style.  Some of the homes are quite modern and look like floating condos.  Yes, folks, only in Amsterdam.

Houseboat

Let's talk about Old Town:
I knew that at some point in my life, I would visit Amsterdam and see what all the fuss was about in Old Town. I was surprised at how civil it was despite the plethora of "coffee shops" and red lit rooms on the street level.

This neighbourhood is a maze of streets with narrow little buildings that house restaurants, bakeries (filled with chocolate covered waffles and pizza), shops with clothing by young designers, lovely family-owned apartments, and of course, pot cafes, and prostitutes.  There seemed to be no shame for these women who sat in rooms waiting for clients and for the men who negotiated prices before making their final selection.  It was just another day in Old Town. Families strolled by these establishments as if they were corner stores.  There were no drunken patrons or pot-induced craziness on the street.  Restaurants were full, coffee shops were attracting customers and families felt a sense of calm as they ventured out for a nightly stroll.  Although the new Dutch government is trying to curtail the pot and prostitution activity in this neighbourhood, it was obvious that the present government control seems to work well.  Very civilized indeed.

Shopping:
Shopping was a mixed blessing in Amsterdam.  There are a number of very talented Dutch designers on display in Oud Zuid and Old Town.  The traditional couture labels are present but unfortunately, there are also a number of American chain stores on the main pedestrian shopping area called Kalverstraat. This pedestrian-only street and its adjacent alleys and "Kalvertoren" shopping center feature a mix of chain clothing stores (Esprit, H&M, Mexx, WE, Zara), and many shoe stores.  For a moment, I forgot I was in Amsterdam and thought I was in the shoe capital - Madrid. The most shocking thing to me other than the presence of American stores was that most of the stores' signs are in English.  This also extends to restaurant signs.  Granted, the Dutch speak English well but the absence of Dutch on retail signage was disappointing.  But of course, for the American tourists on our bus, this would be their idea of  heaven.
There are two upscale shopping experiences in this area that are worth a visit:  deBijenkorf, a posh department store that resembles Bergdorf Goodman or if you're Canadian, Holt Renfrew.  The other is a shopping mall Magna Plaza, inserted in an old building which is a must to see.

Magna Plaza

Have I mentioned in the past how much I love the markets in Europe?  I don't care if they're selling junk, I love the whole experience associated with markets.  I seek them out in every city and find something unique and captivating in each one.  Amsterdam's markets did not disappoint me.  The flower markets filled with colours I have never seen, fabric shops with beautiful faux furs and silk and yes, the junk - I bought the son a WW2 gas mask.  I don't know what he'll do with it, but you just can't find junk this good in North America.

I wish we had more time in Amsterdam.  There were so many things I missed.  But I hope to return someday and eat my little heart out at DeJoffers and try the chocolate covered waffles.  Amsterdam's charm is overshadowed by its reputation as a haven for liberal sex and drugs.  There is so much more to this city of ris taffel, mushroom soup, bikes, and "rivers".



Places of Interest:

Restaurants
Small Talk
Willemsparkweg 1
Amsterdam
020-6620029

Brasserie DeJoffers
Willemsparkweg 163
1071 GZ Amsterdam
020-6730360
www.brasseriedejoffers.nl/home

Aneka Rasa
Warmoesstraat 25-29
1012 HV Amsterdam
020-6261560
www.finerestaurant.nl

Restaurant De Knijp
Van Baerlestraat 134
1071 BD Amsterdam
Tel +3120 671 42 48|
ddeknijp@diningcity.com

Restaurant Het Melkmeisje


Hotel
Memphis EMB Hotel
De Lairessestraat 87
1071 NX Amsterdam
Tel: +31 (0)20 673 31 41
Fax: +31 (0)20 673 73 12
Email: memphis@embhotels.nl
www.embhotels.nl/en/memphis-hotel/algemeen/home-memphis-hotel.html
Does not offer a complimentary breakfast

New York, New York!!

The doctor and I just returned from another memorable trip to New York City.  I have been visiting this glorious place since the sixties and still love it after all of these years.  I have decided to talk about this trip in the travel blog because most travel sites will list all of the top tourist sites but since I have "been there, done that" I will focus on my favorite neighborhoods and haunts.

The Village is still the place to be:
I love Greenwich Village - period!  For me, there is nothing like the "Village" and the West Village.  I also love the Lower East Side, East Village, and Gramercy Park which I will discuss in future blog entries but for now, it is all about my favorite neighborhood on the lower west side of the island of Manhattan. What makes Greenwich Village so special?  It is a real neighborhood with gorgeous brownstones, intriguing history, great restaurants, shops and interesting residents.  It is a place devoid of throngs of tourists that feels like a home away from home.  You will find upscale chain stores on 5th Avenue in this area but stay west of 5th and explore the locally owned shops and restaurants that are far more interesting and retain the flavor of this historic neighborhood.   Granted, 7th Avenue and Bleeker Street have a sprinkling of designer shops such as Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs but these fashion giants have integrated their wares well into this funky place so we'll excuse them for now.
The Neighborhood
For this purpose, I will include the West Village in all discussion of Greenwich Village since it is really a continuation of Greenwich.  This neighborhood has existed since the 15th century but the majority of the buildings are 19th century built prior to the Civil War.  I highly recommend strolling the streets 9-14 between 5th Avenue and the Hudson River early in the morning and after dark.  The morning is quiet and gently stirring which enables one to see this beautiful place getting ready for the day.  Grab a coffee at French Roast on the corner of West 11th Street and 6th Avenue or at Starbucks on 6th Avenue near West 9th Avenue.  You will notice many sweet little restaurants that serve breakfast.  Scout out the other restaurants for a romantic meal preceding your late night stroll.  These walkabouts will serve you well when you are ready to nosh and shop.  Make sure you stroll along all of Bleeker Street on a weekend evening.  The climate of the street is so much different than during the day.
Note:  make sure you have a walking map with you since this area of NYC is not a grid pattern.  The streets are laid out in a haphazard fashion which makes a map a necessary accessory. 
Where to stay:
Since this is a residential neighborhood there is a scarcity of hotels.  For many years, I have chosen to stay in a hotel that caters primarily to Europeans who are accustomed to spartan hotels.  The Larchmont Hotel is located on the most beautiful street in the Village - West 11th Street.  Most of the rooms require you to share a bathroom but a sink, towels, toiletries, bathrobes, and slippers are provided in the room.  There is a larger room that will accommodate a family or larger group that comes equipped with a bathroom.  A continental breakfast is served each day.   Some of the hotel is still occupied by full-time residents who live in some of the original apartments.  The cost of the rooms is reasonable and the location is terrific.

 The Larchmont Hotel

West 11th Avenue street view of The Larchmont Hotel

I have stayed here on Halloween which is amazing.  The brownstones are decorated by the residents, some of whom are set decorators.  The annual 4 hour Halloween parade marches down 6th Avenue so a front row seat for this great event is a short stroll away.  Some of the residents who are trick or treating with their children are celebrities who happen to live in the neighborhood.  One year, I noticed this lovely little boy trick or treating and then noticed his mother - Rachel Weisz.

Halloween in the Village

Favorite Village eateries:

One need not travel far for great food, shopping, and necessities.  At the corner of West 11th and 6th is Gene's Restaurant.  It is a neighborhood institution but the food remains top notch.  Another neighborhood favorite is Pesce and Pasta on Bleeker Street.  Both offer Italian food at its best.  These are not restaurants you will read about that have a celebrity chef or an ultra chic crowd; however, the food is great and you will see famous faces (if this is your goal) simply because the food is excellent rather than trendy and these folks just happen to live in this cool neighborhood.
If you love gelato then I highly recommend Grom Gelato on Bleeker Street near Carmine Street.  This is the best gelato outside of Barcelona (yes, Barcelona not Italy).  L'Arte del Gelato on Seventh Avenue South near Barrow Street is also good but Grom is heavenly.
Now let's talk about bakeries.  There are a number of great bakeries in the Village and some of the Italian bakeries and delis are located near Pesce and Pasta.  But il Cantuccio is the Tuscan bakery I have been dreaming about.  Ever since I left Florence, I have been searching for the right Tuscan bread to make Pappa al Pomodoro.  No North American bread can duplicate the Tuscan bread from Italy until I discovered il Cantuccio.  The owner (who is from Florence) assured me that this bread will work well with my soup.  I bought two loaves and will make it later this week.  I will keep you posted.
I try and stay away from ultra-trendy unless the establishment is worth the trend.  Don't get me wrong, I am as much a trend junkie as the next TJ but in NYC there are so many great restaurants one doesn't need to follow a trend.  That said, I needed a housewarming gift and decided to purchase some bake goods. Since trendy Magnolia Bakery is in the West Village on Bleeker, I decided to buy some goodies.  I stayed away from the oh-so-popular cupcakes and purchased a variety of small round cheesecakes as well as a Key Lime dessert of the same size.  Mama Mia!  So amazing!  My hosts were thrilled and I am now a convert.
Yes, grocery stores exist in the city:
There are a number of great grocery stores on Sixth Avenue but my favorite is Citarella's near West 9th.  They have great take-out if you don't feel like getting dressed up for dinner.  Take some of this great Italian and French fare back to your hotel or to the closest park and have a delicious feast.
...and speaking of drug stores:
Don't worry about forgetting your toothbrush or umbrella, there are many Duane Read and Rite Aid drug stores on 6th.  But the best store is C.O. Bigalow Pharmacy.  It was established in 1838 on Sixth Avenue/Ave. of the Americas.  It carries everything from their delicious bath and body products (I love the lemon scented products) to the most beautifully packaged bottles of perfume from Paris and Florence.  The interior remains the same as it did in 1838 and the experience you will have in Bigelow's cannot be duplicated in any Duane Read.  They now have a website so you can check out their products online but don't use this as a substitute for the live shopping experience.
Summer in the City:
I dislike NYC in the summer because of the heat; however, there are many free concerts, plays, outdoor activities and sales - everything is on sale in the summer.  So if you need to pick up a few new pieces of clothing or furniture, this is the time to shop.  If you travel during the Christmas holiday, make sure to do your shopping on Christmas Eve.  Male Maven Mark told me that he checks out his favorite stores before Christmas then purchases everything on Christmas Eve when the prices are slashed.
Local Mavens are a must:
I am fortunate to have many friends and relatives in NYC.  When I need to know about galleries, theatre, or music, I contact one of my local mavens.  Male Maven Kevin works in the music industry and is well-aquainted with all of the concert venues as well as the smaller venues that host musical giants from all  genres.  He is also knowledgeable about theatre so I pick his brain before buying tickets.
Maven Margo knows just about everything associated with her beloved city (she grew up on West 11th, my street).  But no one knows more about art, museums, or galleries than Maven Margo.  Since I am an art junkie, I always check with Margo about the latest exhibits.
For theatre, I read the NYTimes reviews as well as the opinions of the New Yorker's theatre critics.  Since I am a  graduate of Queen's University's Drama department, I am familiar with playwrights and revivals.  But I still rely on my NYC Mavens for their expert opinions.
..but if you must leave the neighborhood:
Occasionally I venture uptown because I love the museums the skirt Central Park. The original mansions of New York are here so if you love architecture as much as I do, you will enjoy these gems.  The park is also a stunning bit of landscape designed by Olmstead but spring is my favorite time to stroll in the park.  Everything blooms earlier in New York than in Ontario so if you need an injection of spring, New York is the place to visit.

Museums in the city:

During this trip, Maven Margo took us to the Morgan Library which is a stunning piece of New York architecture.  It also houses important literary works that were purchased by J.P. Morgan.  J.P.'s home was originally adjacent to the library but was torn down by J.P. Junior who expanded the museum/library and its collection and at the same time built a swanky mansion for himself next door.  You can view some of its interior when touring the library.
I love museums but my favorites are the Metropolitan, Fricke, and The Neue Gallery.  Each building has its own flavor but are all worth more than one visit.
We spent 4 hours in the Met this time.  We saw the Alexander McQueen exhibit which was a must.  We also spent time viewing the great decorative arts collection, most of which was donated by Mr. and Mrs. Charles Wrightsman (Jayne Wrightsman was Jackie Kennedy Onassis's best friend).  This collection of French decorative arts is magnificent.  If you love furniture and antiques and long to be in Paris, I highly recommend this exhibit.
The Fricke is not as important for its paintings as it is for the combination of art, furniture and the original Fricke mansion that houses the collection.  In this building you can experience life as the wealthy elite did during this prosperous time in American history.
The Neue Gallery is a personal favorite.  Ronald Lauder (of Estee Lauder cosmetics) is a leading authority of German Expressionist and Viennese Secessionist art.  He purchased this former Vanderbuilt mansion and turned it into a grand museum with a world class collection.  One is able to view the beauty of this grand old home while either listening to a pianist play a Viennese waltz as one sips coffee in the Viennese coffee room or admiring the work of Klimt and Kirchner. This museum also houses the famed Adele Bloch Bauer portrait by Klimt that was stolen by the Nazis and finally returned to the descendants of Bloch Bauer.  The family members sold this portrait to Lauder for $135 million dollars.
Gallery hopping:
If you would like to spend an afternoon gallery hopping, check out the galleries in SoHo, Chelsea (in the 20's), East Village and the Lower East Side.  The East Village and Lower East Side are becoming gentrified so you will find interesting clothing stores and galleries that don't open until after 11AM.
One of my favorite places to buy art is on the street in SoHo.  Each Saturday afternoon (don't get there too early - artists are not morning people) artists set up their work near the corner of Prince Street and Greene Street.  You will also see art along West Broadway.  If you need a few new pieces for those empty walls, you can pick up some great art for very reasonable prices.  I have about 4 paintings from these artists and I love them.
Okay, okay, I guess there are a couple other things I like uptown:
Maven Lynn is a long-time resident of New York and is an art dealer, producer and fundraiser who has her finger on the pulse of this great city.  She lives uptown and asked the Doctor and I to meet her at her favorite restaurant (yes, she has her own table) Rouge Tomate on East 60th Street.  Since this was Restaurant Week in NYC, many of the top restaurants were offering meals at heavily discounted prices.  Let's just say, had this not been a discount, the Doctor and I would have had to take out a second mortgage to pay for this meal.  But, oh boy, what a meal!  The prix fixe menu was priced at $25.00 and was by far one of the best meals I have had since I returned from Italy.  If you can afford it, go there and feast like you've never feasted before.
Maven Margo and her husband treated the Doctor and I took a brunch at the Harvard Club on West 44th Street.  Now there are two reasons I am mentioning this brunch.  If you know someone who is an alumnus of Harvard and a member of this club, find a way to wrangle an invitation.  The building is extraordinary and the food is divine.  In addition to the restaurant, bar, lounge areas, there is a hotel for out-of-town guests of Harvard folks.  We took a tour of the rooms and could stay there as guests of Maven Margo but we still prefer to be in the village.  While there, check out the Yacht Club next door.  You will not be able to walk past the lobby but look upstairs and you will see one of the most beautiful ballrooms in NYC.  Don't forget to admire the outside of this building.  The corbels are designed to resemble waves.
Plan on driving to NYC? Parking is available:
The doctor and I love this parking garage because it is so reasonable and that is a word that is not used often in NYC.  Once you have parked your car, just hail a cab and direct it to your hotel.

Primary Parking, 10th Ave at 49th St
Website for discount parking coupons by various NY neighbourhoods: http://www.iconparkingsystems.com/Coupons_Area.asp
You can easily reach this garage by driving on the Henry Hudson Parkway.

Bargains outside of Manhattan:
If you drive to the city, you might want to stop at Woodbury Commons Outlet Mall.  Many of the top designers have stores in this sprawling complex and there are bargains to be had!  But be careful - some stores sell merchandise that is made only for the outlet store or sell cheap merchandise that you will most likely never find in one of their city stores.  I love Gucci, Prada and Tod and bought something in every one of these stores because the prices were amazing.  The doctor bought a gorgeous Burberry coat that was 75% off the regular price.  If you are planning on getting married or have a function to attend that requires a special dress, do not miss the Oscar De la Renta store.  The bridal gowns are stunning and a fraction of the original cost.  It is definitely worth the trip for a dress for your special day.

There is never enough time to see everyone and do everything one wants to do in NYC.  You either have to live there or visit often.  But check this blog out before you go and Maven Pam will be happy to help you.

Places of Interest:
Gene's Restaurant                        
73 W 11th St # 1
New York, NY 10011-8605, United States
(212) 675-2048Open Daily 12pm-11pm
Subway: 6 Av

Il Cantuccio
91 Christopher Street
New York, NY 10014, United States
(212) 647-8787Open Weekdays 8am-10pm
Subway: Christopher St - Sheridan Sq

Magnolia Bakery
401 Bleecker Street New York, NY 10014 (212) 462-2572

Grom Gelato
233 Bleecker St at Carmine St
New York, NY 10022
(212) 206-1738

The Larchmont Hotel
7 West 11th Street
New York, NY 10011, United States
(212) 989-9333Open Daily 24 Hours
Subway: 6 Av

Rouge Tomate
10 East 60th Street
between Madison and Fifth Avenue
New York, New York
646-237-8977