New York, New York!!

The doctor and I just returned from another memorable trip to New York City.  I have been visiting this glorious place since the sixties and still love it after all of these years.  I have decided to talk about this trip in the travel blog because most travel sites will list all of the top tourist sites but since I have "been there, done that" I will focus on my favorite neighborhoods and haunts.

The Village is still the place to be:
I love Greenwich Village - period!  For me, there is nothing like the "Village" and the West Village.  I also love the Lower East Side, East Village, and Gramercy Park which I will discuss in future blog entries but for now, it is all about my favorite neighborhood on the lower west side of the island of Manhattan. What makes Greenwich Village so special?  It is a real neighborhood with gorgeous brownstones, intriguing history, great restaurants, shops and interesting residents.  It is a place devoid of throngs of tourists that feels like a home away from home.  You will find upscale chain stores on 5th Avenue in this area but stay west of 5th and explore the locally owned shops and restaurants that are far more interesting and retain the flavor of this historic neighborhood.   Granted, 7th Avenue and Bleeker Street have a sprinkling of designer shops such as Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs but these fashion giants have integrated their wares well into this funky place so we'll excuse them for now.
The Neighborhood
For this purpose, I will include the West Village in all discussion of Greenwich Village since it is really a continuation of Greenwich.  This neighborhood has existed since the 15th century but the majority of the buildings are 19th century built prior to the Civil War.  I highly recommend strolling the streets 9-14 between 5th Avenue and the Hudson River early in the morning and after dark.  The morning is quiet and gently stirring which enables one to see this beautiful place getting ready for the day.  Grab a coffee at French Roast on the corner of West 11th Street and 6th Avenue or at Starbucks on 6th Avenue near West 9th Avenue.  You will notice many sweet little restaurants that serve breakfast.  Scout out the other restaurants for a romantic meal preceding your late night stroll.  These walkabouts will serve you well when you are ready to nosh and shop.  Make sure you stroll along all of Bleeker Street on a weekend evening.  The climate of the street is so much different than during the day.
Note:  make sure you have a walking map with you since this area of NYC is not a grid pattern.  The streets are laid out in a haphazard fashion which makes a map a necessary accessory. 
Where to stay:
Since this is a residential neighborhood there is a scarcity of hotels.  For many years, I have chosen to stay in a hotel that caters primarily to Europeans who are accustomed to spartan hotels.  The Larchmont Hotel is located on the most beautiful street in the Village - West 11th Street.  Most of the rooms require you to share a bathroom but a sink, towels, toiletries, bathrobes, and slippers are provided in the room.  There is a larger room that will accommodate a family or larger group that comes equipped with a bathroom.  A continental breakfast is served each day.   Some of the hotel is still occupied by full-time residents who live in some of the original apartments.  The cost of the rooms is reasonable and the location is terrific.

 The Larchmont Hotel

West 11th Avenue street view of The Larchmont Hotel

I have stayed here on Halloween which is amazing.  The brownstones are decorated by the residents, some of whom are set decorators.  The annual 4 hour Halloween parade marches down 6th Avenue so a front row seat for this great event is a short stroll away.  Some of the residents who are trick or treating with their children are celebrities who happen to live in the neighborhood.  One year, I noticed this lovely little boy trick or treating and then noticed his mother - Rachel Weisz.

Halloween in the Village

Favorite Village eateries:

One need not travel far for great food, shopping, and necessities.  At the corner of West 11th and 6th is Gene's Restaurant.  It is a neighborhood institution but the food remains top notch.  Another neighborhood favorite is Pesce and Pasta on Bleeker Street.  Both offer Italian food at its best.  These are not restaurants you will read about that have a celebrity chef or an ultra chic crowd; however, the food is great and you will see famous faces (if this is your goal) simply because the food is excellent rather than trendy and these folks just happen to live in this cool neighborhood.
If you love gelato then I highly recommend Grom Gelato on Bleeker Street near Carmine Street.  This is the best gelato outside of Barcelona (yes, Barcelona not Italy).  L'Arte del Gelato on Seventh Avenue South near Barrow Street is also good but Grom is heavenly.
Now let's talk about bakeries.  There are a number of great bakeries in the Village and some of the Italian bakeries and delis are located near Pesce and Pasta.  But il Cantuccio is the Tuscan bakery I have been dreaming about.  Ever since I left Florence, I have been searching for the right Tuscan bread to make Pappa al Pomodoro.  No North American bread can duplicate the Tuscan bread from Italy until I discovered il Cantuccio.  The owner (who is from Florence) assured me that this bread will work well with my soup.  I bought two loaves and will make it later this week.  I will keep you posted.
I try and stay away from ultra-trendy unless the establishment is worth the trend.  Don't get me wrong, I am as much a trend junkie as the next TJ but in NYC there are so many great restaurants one doesn't need to follow a trend.  That said, I needed a housewarming gift and decided to purchase some bake goods. Since trendy Magnolia Bakery is in the West Village on Bleeker, I decided to buy some goodies.  I stayed away from the oh-so-popular cupcakes and purchased a variety of small round cheesecakes as well as a Key Lime dessert of the same size.  Mama Mia!  So amazing!  My hosts were thrilled and I am now a convert.
Yes, grocery stores exist in the city:
There are a number of great grocery stores on Sixth Avenue but my favorite is Citarella's near West 9th.  They have great take-out if you don't feel like getting dressed up for dinner.  Take some of this great Italian and French fare back to your hotel or to the closest park and have a delicious feast.
...and speaking of drug stores:
Don't worry about forgetting your toothbrush or umbrella, there are many Duane Read and Rite Aid drug stores on 6th.  But the best store is C.O. Bigalow Pharmacy.  It was established in 1838 on Sixth Avenue/Ave. of the Americas.  It carries everything from their delicious bath and body products (I love the lemon scented products) to the most beautifully packaged bottles of perfume from Paris and Florence.  The interior remains the same as it did in 1838 and the experience you will have in Bigelow's cannot be duplicated in any Duane Read.  They now have a website so you can check out their products online but don't use this as a substitute for the live shopping experience.
Summer in the City:
I dislike NYC in the summer because of the heat; however, there are many free concerts, plays, outdoor activities and sales - everything is on sale in the summer.  So if you need to pick up a few new pieces of clothing or furniture, this is the time to shop.  If you travel during the Christmas holiday, make sure to do your shopping on Christmas Eve.  Male Maven Mark told me that he checks out his favorite stores before Christmas then purchases everything on Christmas Eve when the prices are slashed.
Local Mavens are a must:
I am fortunate to have many friends and relatives in NYC.  When I need to know about galleries, theatre, or music, I contact one of my local mavens.  Male Maven Kevin works in the music industry and is well-aquainted with all of the concert venues as well as the smaller venues that host musical giants from all  genres.  He is also knowledgeable about theatre so I pick his brain before buying tickets.
Maven Margo knows just about everything associated with her beloved city (she grew up on West 11th, my street).  But no one knows more about art, museums, or galleries than Maven Margo.  Since I am an art junkie, I always check with Margo about the latest exhibits.
For theatre, I read the NYTimes reviews as well as the opinions of the New Yorker's theatre critics.  Since I am a  graduate of Queen's University's Drama department, I am familiar with playwrights and revivals.  But I still rely on my NYC Mavens for their expert opinions.
..but if you must leave the neighborhood:
Occasionally I venture uptown because I love the museums the skirt Central Park. The original mansions of New York are here so if you love architecture as much as I do, you will enjoy these gems.  The park is also a stunning bit of landscape designed by Olmstead but spring is my favorite time to stroll in the park.  Everything blooms earlier in New York than in Ontario so if you need an injection of spring, New York is the place to visit.

Museums in the city:

During this trip, Maven Margo took us to the Morgan Library which is a stunning piece of New York architecture.  It also houses important literary works that were purchased by J.P. Morgan.  J.P.'s home was originally adjacent to the library but was torn down by J.P. Junior who expanded the museum/library and its collection and at the same time built a swanky mansion for himself next door.  You can view some of its interior when touring the library.
I love museums but my favorites are the Metropolitan, Fricke, and The Neue Gallery.  Each building has its own flavor but are all worth more than one visit.
We spent 4 hours in the Met this time.  We saw the Alexander McQueen exhibit which was a must.  We also spent time viewing the great decorative arts collection, most of which was donated by Mr. and Mrs. Charles Wrightsman (Jayne Wrightsman was Jackie Kennedy Onassis's best friend).  This collection of French decorative arts is magnificent.  If you love furniture and antiques and long to be in Paris, I highly recommend this exhibit.
The Fricke is not as important for its paintings as it is for the combination of art, furniture and the original Fricke mansion that houses the collection.  In this building you can experience life as the wealthy elite did during this prosperous time in American history.
The Neue Gallery is a personal favorite.  Ronald Lauder (of Estee Lauder cosmetics) is a leading authority of German Expressionist and Viennese Secessionist art.  He purchased this former Vanderbuilt mansion and turned it into a grand museum with a world class collection.  One is able to view the beauty of this grand old home while either listening to a pianist play a Viennese waltz as one sips coffee in the Viennese coffee room or admiring the work of Klimt and Kirchner. This museum also houses the famed Adele Bloch Bauer portrait by Klimt that was stolen by the Nazis and finally returned to the descendants of Bloch Bauer.  The family members sold this portrait to Lauder for $135 million dollars.
Gallery hopping:
If you would like to spend an afternoon gallery hopping, check out the galleries in SoHo, Chelsea (in the 20's), East Village and the Lower East Side.  The East Village and Lower East Side are becoming gentrified so you will find interesting clothing stores and galleries that don't open until after 11AM.
One of my favorite places to buy art is on the street in SoHo.  Each Saturday afternoon (don't get there too early - artists are not morning people) artists set up their work near the corner of Prince Street and Greene Street.  You will also see art along West Broadway.  If you need a few new pieces for those empty walls, you can pick up some great art for very reasonable prices.  I have about 4 paintings from these artists and I love them.
Okay, okay, I guess there are a couple other things I like uptown:
Maven Lynn is a long-time resident of New York and is an art dealer, producer and fundraiser who has her finger on the pulse of this great city.  She lives uptown and asked the Doctor and I to meet her at her favorite restaurant (yes, she has her own table) Rouge Tomate on East 60th Street.  Since this was Restaurant Week in NYC, many of the top restaurants were offering meals at heavily discounted prices.  Let's just say, had this not been a discount, the Doctor and I would have had to take out a second mortgage to pay for this meal.  But, oh boy, what a meal!  The prix fixe menu was priced at $25.00 and was by far one of the best meals I have had since I returned from Italy.  If you can afford it, go there and feast like you've never feasted before.
Maven Margo and her husband treated the Doctor and I took a brunch at the Harvard Club on West 44th Street.  Now there are two reasons I am mentioning this brunch.  If you know someone who is an alumnus of Harvard and a member of this club, find a way to wrangle an invitation.  The building is extraordinary and the food is divine.  In addition to the restaurant, bar, lounge areas, there is a hotel for out-of-town guests of Harvard folks.  We took a tour of the rooms and could stay there as guests of Maven Margo but we still prefer to be in the village.  While there, check out the Yacht Club next door.  You will not be able to walk past the lobby but look upstairs and you will see one of the most beautiful ballrooms in NYC.  Don't forget to admire the outside of this building.  The corbels are designed to resemble waves.
Plan on driving to NYC? Parking is available:
The doctor and I love this parking garage because it is so reasonable and that is a word that is not used often in NYC.  Once you have parked your car, just hail a cab and direct it to your hotel.

Primary Parking, 10th Ave at 49th St
Website for discount parking coupons by various NY neighbourhoods: http://www.iconparkingsystems.com/Coupons_Area.asp
You can easily reach this garage by driving on the Henry Hudson Parkway.

Bargains outside of Manhattan:
If you drive to the city, you might want to stop at Woodbury Commons Outlet Mall.  Many of the top designers have stores in this sprawling complex and there are bargains to be had!  But be careful - some stores sell merchandise that is made only for the outlet store or sell cheap merchandise that you will most likely never find in one of their city stores.  I love Gucci, Prada and Tod and bought something in every one of these stores because the prices were amazing.  The doctor bought a gorgeous Burberry coat that was 75% off the regular price.  If you are planning on getting married or have a function to attend that requires a special dress, do not miss the Oscar De la Renta store.  The bridal gowns are stunning and a fraction of the original cost.  It is definitely worth the trip for a dress for your special day.

There is never enough time to see everyone and do everything one wants to do in NYC.  You either have to live there or visit often.  But check this blog out before you go and Maven Pam will be happy to help you.

Places of Interest:
Gene's Restaurant                        
73 W 11th St # 1
New York, NY 10011-8605, United States
(212) 675-2048Open Daily 12pm-11pm
Subway: 6 Av

Il Cantuccio
91 Christopher Street
New York, NY 10014, United States
(212) 647-8787Open Weekdays 8am-10pm
Subway: Christopher St - Sheridan Sq

Magnolia Bakery
401 Bleecker Street New York, NY 10014 (212) 462-2572

Grom Gelato
233 Bleecker St at Carmine St
New York, NY 10022
(212) 206-1738

The Larchmont Hotel
7 West 11th Street
New York, NY 10011, United States
(212) 989-9333Open Daily 24 Hours
Subway: 6 Av

Rouge Tomate
10 East 60th Street
between Madison and Fifth Avenue
New York, New York
646-237-8977