Home in Halmstad

My mother's parents played a key role in my life.  I spent nearly as much time in their home as I did in my own.  I loved listening to Grandma's stories about her childhood, her sister Marta who died at the age of 10 and her beloved sister Naemi, the only sibling to remain in Halmstad, Sweden, Grandma's place of birth.  Each time I visited her and Grandpa Gustave, we would take out the little leather-bound photo album that contained the visual memories of her family; each person frozen in time, retaining the innocent glow of a perfect, yet simple life in a little seaside town called Halmstad.

Grandma

Naemi and Marta

The Photo Album

 Once Grandma married and had Mom, she never returned to Halmstad.  It was a decision that pained her deeply but circumstances did not allow her the benefit of seeing Naemi and her children before Grandma passed away.  Mom and Dad visited Aunt Naemi in the eighties and although I never had the opportunity to meet my aunt, whom I felt I knew intimately from Grandma's stories, I had pledged that I would meet Naemi's family while I was still healthy enough to travel.

Eva Martenson

For the past two years, I have been corresponding (via Facebook)with Eva Martensen, Naemi's daughter-in-law.  Since Mom is no longer well enough to navigate the Internet, I happily took the reins as family correspondent and genealogist.  When the doctor read about the conference in Stockholm, I asked if we could spare a few days to travel to Halmstad.  This did not require discussion - he was happy to accommodate me.  Finally, I was going to make the trip that Grandma so desperately wanted to do.  Throughout the short flight between Stockholm and Halmstad, I carried Grandma in my heart so I could share each precious moment with her.

Jan Martenson

We arrived at the airport in Halmstad and were greeted by Eva and my cousin Jan (Eva's husband) who looks exactly like Grandma's brother Joel.  The warm hugs we received pressed Grandma's history deep inside my chest where Grandma was waiting to receive the love of her family.  It was good to be home.
Jan and Eva drove us directly to their home in the countryside outside of Halmstad.  The farm, where they previously lived and still keep their sheep, is now owned and occupied by their son, my other amazing cousin, Mats and his two sons.

Mats and I with one of his 100 or so motorbikes

The homes are typical of Swedish country architecture: red or a muted yellow-gold with batten board siding.  I fell in love with this quaint look which was always replicated in Grandma's crocheted designs.  Once inside Jan and Eva's home, I was surrounded by more Gustavian delights.  The home has many beautiful family treasures.  The house is heated by a floor-to-ceiling ceramic stove that I have previously seen in European palaces but is common in Swedish homes.  In fact, our hotel room also had one of these beautiful ceramic beasts.

from left: Ulla, me, Eva, Jan, Mille

Once we were settled and greeted by the two dogs, Eva and I sat at the dining room table to look at the family photos I brought from Canada and the photos she had of the Olson/Martenson clan.  Before long, we were interrupted by a steady stream of relatives arriving from down the road and from Gothenburg.  Now, for the first time, I was meeting my cousin Mille (who looks like my Grandma) and his wife Ulla.  They were followed by Mats and his partner Annika carrying trays and trays of Swedish delights.  Eating this meal with my family was the most extraordinary experience.  The food was delicious and the conversation was as comforting as the familiar foods.  When the conversation was spoken in Swedish, my cousin Mille would ask, "do you understand what we are saying?"  I replied that I knew some of the words but just listening to them speak with a Halmstad dialect made me feel as though I was wrapped with the warmth of their words.  The ability to understand was irrelevant.
At the end of the evening, the doctor and I retired to our hotel room.  We had chosen to stay in another Clarion hotel which also served both breakfast and dinner.  Most of our dinners were eaten at Eva and Jan's home but we shared one meal with them at the hotel and it was very good.  This hotel did not have a bar so we couldn't have wine with dinner, but since we are not big drinkers, there was no loss.  BUT THE ROOM--I need to tell you about our room.
If you read the Stockholm blog entry, you will remember that our room there was very small.  But the room we were given in Halmstad was a suite. It was the size of a small apartment with a separate living room, bedroom, large bathroom with a whirlpool tub and a stunning floor-to-ceiling ceramic stove.  The view outside our window was of the main park in Halmstad where my grandmother walked as a young girl.  This was definitely the way to end this three city trip!

Slottsmollan

Interior of Slottmollan

The next day, Eva, Jan, Ulla, and Mille took us on a tour of Halmstad.  Our first stop was Slottsmollan, a large brick complex that was once a dye and paper factory built in 1823.  It was here that my great-grandfather Nils worked as a blacksmith.  The building has been lovingly restored and is filled with 100 companies with a wide range of interests.  Walking through the building gave me a sense of life in Halmstad during the 19th century and early 20th century when Grandma and her siblings were young.

Halmstad city core

Once we finished our tour of Slottsmollan, Eva drove us to the centre of town which is a delightful mix of old and new.  I wasn't sure what to expect of the central core since all of the photos I had seen of Halmstad remained frozen at the turn of the 20th century.  But it is a surprisingly modern little town with boutiques, (yes, another H&M), and trendy restaurants ensconced in ancient buildings; some as old as the 14th century.

We stopped for lunch at a restaurant in a former fire station.  The food was delicious and the crowd was young and very hip.  It was hard to imagine my religious little grandmother co-existing in a town with teens sporting tattoos and piercings.  Halmstad has certainly kept up with the times.

Home of Mayor of Halmstad

Mille and Jan standing in front of their paternal grandparents' home on the oldest street in Halmstad

After lunch, we continued our walking tour and were directed to a street that has the oldest remaining homes in Halmstad.  These tiny little 14th century houses are well-maintained and fully occupied.  Eva mentioned that there had been some discussion about tearing them down, but sanity prevailed and they remain as a reminder and testament to the struggle of Halmstad Swedes to break free from the Danish king.

St. Nicholas Church

After leaving this area, we found ourselves in front of St. Nicholas Church which was begun in the 14th century.  It was here that my Grandmother and her siblings were baptized and attended services until she left for America.  Mille and Jan were also baptized here.  Once inside this beautiful church, I felt Grandma's presence with me.  She had been raised in a very strict Lutheran family and her faith had remained strong until her death.  I knew that her spirit had found its way back here and it was at this moment, I knew she was with me.  Tears fell quickly as I sat on the front pew with her.  Eva suggested that we light candles in memory of Grandma and her sister Naemi.  It was the right thing to do.

Interior of church

It was now time to pay our respects to the dead.

Eva placing flowers on the graves of my great-grandparents

We drove to the main cemetery in Halmstad where three generations of Olson/Martensons are buried.  Prior to our arrival here, Eva and Jan stopped at a beautiful flower shop to purchase flowers for each grave.  Once there, we placed flowers on the graves of Aunt Naemi and her husband Emil, Great-grandparents Nils and Augusta Olson, as well as the graves of my great-great grandparents, and the children who did not survive:  Marta and Enoch.  I knew that Grandma would want us here paying respect to her loved ones.
We finished our tour with a trip to the North Beach.  Halmstad is buzzing with activity in the summer because of the beautiful sand beaches at the edge of the sea.  However, since it was November, we had the sand and shells all to ourselves.

Gathering shells to take home

After three glorious days in Halmstad, it was time to return to Canada.  We had a long flight ahead of us and were eager to get home and see our little Poppy but our visit was much too short.  Jan and Eva drove us to the airport and we said our goodbyes.  I hope that they will visit us in North America so Mom and Dad can see them again before Mom's memory is completely gone.

Jan and Mille

Family is a blessed gift.  I am grateful that I have two wonderful families:  my biological family and my adopted family.  Each has given me such important gifts that have made me who I am today.  I treasure my time in both worlds and I will always remember my pilgrimage to Halmstad.  Eva and Jan were such gracious hosts and we will relive our time in Halmstad over and over; for me, for Mom and for Grandma.  Home is definitely where the heart is.

Hotel:
Clarion Collection Hotel Norre Park

Norra vagen 7  Halmstad, Sweden
035-21 85 55
Phone:+46 (0) 35 21 85 55

Places of Interest:

Slottsmollan

Fastighets

AB Villa Ekebo 302 31 Halmstad

St. Nicholas Church
Center of town
035-282 2060

Online photos of Halmstad

http://www.worldtravelimages.net/Halmstad_City.html

www.slottmollan.se