Havana - my home away from home

There are certain places in the world where I feel most at home:  New York City's Greenwich Village,  the entire country of Italy, southern Spain, and Havana.  From the first moment I laid eyes on this miracle by the sea I was enchanted.  I am unsure what interests me most:  the architecture, the blue sky melting into the sea, the vegetation, street life, the people, music, art, or the intriguing culture that continually feeds my need for more.  When I am away from Havana, I dream about it, talk about it, and long to return.  I never seem to have enough time for continued exploration of the island because my Cuban friends (who have become part of my extended family) want me nearby.  I cannot say I do not share this need.  As much as I love the buzz of this city, I love my Cuban friends and family more.  They tug at my heart strings like no other, compelling me to hold them tightly against my bosom, keeping them safe and blissful.

Door to door knife sharpening business 

I had not been back to Havana for a year.  Since I first arrived here four years ago, I have made a point of returning twice a year.  But this past year was extremely busy with weddings, work, the doctor's health issues, and a month-long retirement trip to Belgium and southern France (next post).  Once the doctor was on the mend, I contacted my friends in Cuba and told them that I was on my way.  Of course there were requests for items unavailable in Cuba and I obliged within my luggage weight limit for the plane.  Last year, I cooked dinner at Yanaisa and Humberto's home which alerted me to the fact that they had very little to work with in their kitchen.  I made a mental note of missing items and one trip to the dollar store remedied the utensil shortage.  Also, I purchased a set of cutlery for them since they only had three forks for meals.  Once one cooks in a tiny Cuban apartment kitchen, one should never complain about their 10 year old cupboards.

Alejandro and Farrah and their new baby Diego

Humberto and Yanaisa's family before the Italian meal

 And shopping for food?  Don't get me started!  This year's feast was easier since I knew where to shop for groceries.  But last year?  Oye veh!  It took me an entire day to buy the food for one Italian meal.  Why was I cooking Italian food in Cuba, you ask?  Well, my dear friend Humberto loves Italian food so I promised I would make sauce, meatballs, and pasta for he and his family.  Cooking Italian in Cuba?  Famous last words of the utterly naive.

Grocery shopping dilemma #1:
I began my day with a visit to the local Supermercado near my hotel.  I shop at the Galleria across the street from the Riviera Hotel which is about 5 blocks more or less from Hotel Presidente, my hotel of choice.  This is a very busy spot but with very little selection.  The abundance of rum and various spirits overshadows the sparse selection of canned food items.  Need bottled water?  No problem.  Need rum or wine?  No problem.  Cans of tomatoes and bags of rice and pasta?  No problem.  Need fresh meat, dairy products, fresh fruit and vegetables, Cuban coffee that is not instant?  Problem.  Yes, folks, this is Cuba and there is no coffee, fresh produce, dairy, meat, sugar, to be found.  Now granted, Uncle Castro gives his people a monthly stipend of sugar, chicken, rice, beans, milk (if you have children under 7 years old) and coffee.  But when most of this runs out in 15 days?  Well, one is SOL.  After I loaded up on cans of tomatoes and boxes of pasta I was on my way to the agro.

Meat Note:  Do not buy frozen ground beef at the supermercado.  I am convinced it is some foreign substance that is being passing off as meat.  Last year, My meatballs were made from fresh ground beef found at a butcher shop in la habana vieja.  Real meat with a few flies in attendance can be found at the agros.  One can also take a taxi to Miramar which has better grocery stores; although, a bit more expensive.  The variety is due to the many embassies located in this neighbourhood and their need for better food choices for dignitaries.  God forbid regular folks should have better food choices, but hey, if you are a Cuban with money, you can buy parmigiana cheese too.

Grocery shopping dilemma #2:
I love markets and seek them out in every city in the world.  One learns so much about the local culture when shopping for food in a market.  The Cuban agros are no different.  In fact, they are so much fun that I seek them out in every neighbourhood.  The agros are normally crowded so I look for the booths that are almost empty or where there seems to be a big crowd.  Obviously, these are the most popular vendors based on price and quality.  One also pays in Cubano pesos rather than CUCs but the vendors will take one dollar CUCs if you run out of the other currency.  There are also cambios in most agros in case you need to change your money.
The dilemma at the agro lies in knowing the culture of these establishments before you attempt to buy anything.  Can a foreigner be cheated?  Of course, so I recommend you shop with a local before attempting these spaces on your own.  Also, until you know which agro carries what and where they are located in your neighbourhood, you will find yourself traveling all over Havana for something as simple as basil until you realize that the illusive herb looks different than what we grow at home and was actually available at the agro you initially went to first thing in the morning.
Know your produce:  Cuban onions, garlic, and basil are much smaller than those in North America.  They are often sold in large quantities and now I know why.  They are less flavourful as ours so you need more of them in order to recreate the savoury dish you make at home.  Bread crumbs are also available at some agros but the bread is sweet so the flavour of the breadcrumbs can detract from the meatballs.

Bread Crumb sign at Agro

Cheese:  Are you kidding me?  This is Cuba folks.  No cheese here.  Last year I was told that a new cheese shop downtown (I stay in Vedado which is about 15 minutes from Old Havana) actually sold parmigiana so my culinary travels continued only to find that the parm was gone (most likely two days prior to my visit).  I was forced to buy Havarti which any Italian can tell you will not cut it on sauce and pasta.  This year, I was smart and smuggled my own parm and olive oil (also difficult to find and very expensive) into the country.  Next year, I am adding bread crumbs, chilis, and decent canned tomatoes to the list.
Once the shopping was finished, I dragged my groceries and tired butt to Playa del este and cooked sauce for 4 hours before sharing a lovely meal with my sweet, appreciative friends.

A delicious Cuban meal made by Omilay's Mom

Omilay, Tamara, and Darian

Each year I am fortunate enough to experience new aspects of Cuban life via my friends in Havana.  Because they treat me like family, I am included in family celebrations such as Quinces, Santerian conversions, clubs with new up and coming musicians, homemade luncheons of Cuban delicacies, motorcycle rides through the city, and secret entry into Cuban radio stations.  Due to these wonderful and eclectic experiences, I have made more friends located in Cuban daughter Omilay's neighbourhood who welcome me into their homes to share family photos and a cafecito.  Unlike Parisians who may know you for forty years and still not invite you to their home, Cubans will eagerly open their homes to you shortly after holas are exchanged and will treat you as a new member of their family.

Sweets made by Omilay for the Santerian ceremony

This year, Omilay's mother (mami numero uno) was having her Santerian ceremony.  She chose to become Santerian last year and December 7th was her formal ceremony.  I took a few photos of the special room in her home that is now her prayer room.  Omilay baked for two days creating the most beautiful sweets that filled the alter floor space.  Santerians arrived wearing white and prayed on the floor speaking softly in Yoruba while shaking maracas, and ringing bells.  Regla, Omilay's mami wore blue which she must also wear each year on December 7th.  For the rest of the year she must wear white and cannot be photographed.  Unlike European based religions, the party after the ceremony was in true Cuban style:  dancing, drinking, eating, and socializing.  I met some of Omilay's neighbours who are now my new Facebook friends.  One in particular is Tamara Perez who is known to Cubans as the one and only Tamara Pero, a famous radio personality.

The One and Only Tamara Perro

Tamara Pero is well-known in Cuba and has worked in radio for 15 years.  She is a lifelong friend of Omilay and also lives in Diez Octobre.  We immediately clicked so she invited me to visit her at the radio station where I met all of her colleagues who are the coolest group in Cuba.  The women do not dress like most Cuban women.  Their look is downtown NYC and Toronto - a retro Patti Smith  hipster appearance. While spending time with them, it was difficult to imagine I was still in Cuba.

Tamara and the gang at Cubano Radio

Tamara at work

Like anything else in Cuba, it is next to impossible to obtain the newest North American music for airplay due to limited access to the internet.  Tamara hosts two shows.  The first features "classic North American" music.  Classic in Cuban terms translates to banned music during the seventies and eighties.  Her other show features "new music" which means new for Cubans.  She would love to have access to the freshest sounds of North American music but this is still very difficult.  However, since the news of Obama's acceptance of Cuba into America's fold, Tamara may soon have the opportunity to introduce Cuban music fans to the latest sounds outside of Cuba.

Beautiful Yanaisa and Handsome Humberto after our shopping trip.

So many stories and experiences yet so little time in Cuba.  I still did not see the zoo or Regla, visit Jewish graveyards, or explore new neighbourhoods, but I will return again and again to this place I call home.  For all of its limitations, Cuba continues to maintain a spirit of community and solidarity.  I commend the Cuban people for their ability to thrive among the cracks and to celebrate life's joyous occasions when the world outside their door is bleak.  They are still trusting and welcoming while their stomachs grumble from a lack of sustenance.  Yet, their spirits find a way to remain full and optimistic.  Let's hope that when I return in May of 2015, my friends will have more money in their pockets and opportunities in their future.

Places to visit:
Believe or not, 354 new restaurants opened in Havana this year.  I sampled the food at a few new places near my hotel and loved each for different reasons.

Razones
Calle F no. 63e/3ra. y 5ta
Vedado
This restaurant has two spaces:  a grill and a more upscale restaurant.  I did not sample the fare at the high end spot but ate at the grill twice - lunch and dinner.  The food is classic Cuban and delicious.  The portions are big and the prices are fair.  The decor is lovely and is open to the elements.  During our lunch, we were given beautiful straw hats which added to our enjoyment of this meal.  The staff is very professional but not as warm as the two other restaurants nearby.

Opera
Calle 5ta no. 204 entre E y F
Vedado
I have been curious about this place for some time.  Each time I visit, I have observed the ongoing construction of this place which finally opened during this last visit.  It was well worth the wait.  Owner Judith Almaguer and Claudio, her Italian-Cuban chef husband lovingly restored this stunning home and use the front for their restaurant and the rear for their living quarters.  The space retains the charm of Beaux Arts style while incorporating modern Cuban art (all for sale) and quirky furnishings mixed with traditional seating.  The outdoor patio is equally stunning and perfect for sharing a pitcher of Sangria with friends.
We ordered the rabbit which was presented beautifully and was mouth watering delicious.  The mashed vegetable dish was so perfectly executed that my vegetable-hating Cuban friends ordered a second dish.  As an Italian who makes tiramisu often decided to try this restaurant's version.  I have had this dessert in Havana before and it was not very good but the chef's own twist on tiramisu was enjoyed by all.  Since mascarpone cheese is unavailable in Cuba, he created a sensational variation that although was sans mascarpone, was picture perfect in every way.
Judith is the loveliest person and took me on a tour of the restaurant and the art.  She was so kind and it is obvious that her family hails from the upper echelon of early Cuban society.  She is personable and sweet; yet, her elegance and demeanour are clear indicators of one who at one time lived grandly.
I will return here each time I visit Havana to test the Claudio's new creations and visit with Judith.  By far, the best restaurant in Havana.

Lovely Judith

Opera Restaurant

Porto Habana
Calle E, No. 158B, Piso 11 e/Calzada y 9na
Vedado
I love this place, you will love this place, the staff loves working here.  Porto Habana has been around for a while and is so successful that the owner Jonathan has purchased the mansion next door to this high rise (the restaurant is on the 11th floor in a former apartment with a sweeping view of Vedado and the sea).  The mansion will now house the main restaurant while the apartment will be used for private parties.
Before I rave about the food, let me mention the world's sweetest waiter - Gio Raudl who is the added bonus to a perfect meal.  After Omilay and I complimented the food, Gio said, "That is because it is made with love".  Is this why the food is so delicious and always consistent?  I have sampled the menus of a number of places in Havana and enjoy the food and atmosphere but made with love?  Well, that's it for me.  The deal was sealed and I now rate this as my 2nd favourite place.
Granted, Le Chansonnier,  El Cucinero, are beautiful and offer consistently great food, but how can one beat consistent, delicious, great view, and made with love while being served by the most adorable waiter in Havana?  Omilay and I love this place and highly recommend the pineapple chicken with black beans.  Rico!

Check out this new band
I have the fortunate experience to hear a new band in Havana that I highly recommend.  They are called Mañana Club and honestly, there is no one like them.  Full brass, full percussion, 4 singers, and guitars.  The one lead singer is a cross between James Brown and Bruno Mars.  It is not always easy to locate a band and where they are playing but if you can locate them, you will not be disappointed.

Nail Salons and Theraputic Massage
Nail salons are now on every corner and massage was not applied by very skilled professionals until just recently.  However, like everything else in Cuba, these two professions are growing and now there are excellent technicians.
Marco Scambogia a recent transplant from Italy is one of the newest trained massage therapists on the island.  He is stunning to look at and is very skilled.  His prices are fair because:  A - this is Cuba, B - he is not located downtown in the tourist area.  One can get here easily by taking a cab which should not cost more than 7 CUC from either Old Havana or Vedado.

Marco's Gallery
Calz: 10 de Octobre  #954 e/ Lacret y Luis Estevez
marcvscambogia76@yahoo.es

Pabexpo
This is a shopping experience like no other but is only known to Cubans.  I was introduced to it my dear friends Yanaisa and Humberto.  It is in Playa on the western part of Havana near Marina Hemingway.  It is an enormous pavilion which used to be a disco that held 5000 partiers.  Now it is home to hundreds of merchants selling everything from furniture to shoes.  I spent an hour here but could have easily been wandering around for four hours.  It is overwhelming but fun.  The neighbourhood is leafy and quiet - a real departure from Old Havana.  It may cost you twenty dollars in cab fare (I rod in 2 different Almondrones with Cubans who know the area) but you will have to find a driver who knows how to get here.  It is definitely worth it.

Pabexpo