Just a girl and her camel: Marbella, Ronda and Tangiers

Marbella

Marbella

 Well mavens, I have not been as diligent lately with my travel blogging.  I could come up with some outrageous story that would seem fitting for a travel maven but the truth is that I have been spending more time traveling to the states to care for elderly parents than to exotic locales.  That said, I was still able to fit in a return trip to Havana, a few days in the Big Apple, a week in Marbella, Spain and while there, day trips to Ronda, Spain and Tangier, Morocco.

Puerto Banus

Since I have spoken at great length in the past about my love affair with Havana, I will begin with a glorious week in the southern part of Spain which is now on my favourite places list.  There are many places to stay in the area but since we were attending a wedding we were told that most of the guests were staying at the Melia Puerto Banus in Puerto Banus which is one mile from the centre of Marbella. We couldn't have chosen a better place to stay and use as our base to explore this beautiful part of the world.  This hotel faces the ocean and our room had a bird's eye view of the water.  Each day, I sat on our balcony overlooking one of the two hotel pools and the beach which stretches along the coastline.  On a clear day, one can see Gibraltar and the northern coast of Africa.

Puerto Banus is very different than Marbella.  This little town is dotted with yachts owned by Saudi princes, upscale shops and restaurants.  Restaurants and shops were a short walk from our hotel and the city core is modern and clean.  Other than Bal Harbour, Florida, I have never seen so many luxury cars in one area.  I am told that when one of the Saudi princes arrives with his entourage, the town is swarming with servants and more Louis Vuitton luggage than the local LV store has in stock.
This area has a record number of days with sunshine; yet, the peak season is in the summer when the weather is the warmest.  Unlike the Caribbean, the winter months are cool so ocean swimming may not be an option.  We visited in late May which provided perfectly nice weather and off season rates that double during the summer months.  Like most areas in southern Spain, the architecture is Moorish; white and accented with handmade tiles.  One would assume due to the upscale nature of this town that the restaurants would be expensive but not so.  I found the prices fair which may be attributed to the dire straits of the Spanish economy but I am just speculating.

boardwalk between Marbella and Puerto Banus

It is very easy to reach Marbella from Puerto Banus.  One can walk along the boardwalk (which is parallel to the beach) for an hour and a bit, rent a bike, or drive along the main road.  We mainly walked around the area  but rented a car in Malaga so we could explore other towns in the vicinity. Driving in Spain is fairly easy despite the tricky roundabouts.  One day we decided to rent bikes.  There is a local bike company which was contacted by our concierge and for a small fee, our bikes were delivered to our hotel.  This is another pleasant way to explore the area and travel along the boardwalk.

on our way to dinner in Marbella with friends

Marbella is very different than Puerto Banus.  The newer section is near the water but once one climbs one of the hilly streets, one is transported back to Medieval times and ancient Spain.  There are many historic buildings to explore and quaint little shops that are modern and varied.  The linen and cotton clothing is reasonable and tapas restaurants abound.  This is the Spain I know and love; yet, is equipped with modern conveniences.

One of the many beautiful churches in Marbella

This area is unique in another sense - its population is 80% British.  Many British expats have settled here so you will hear English spoken; however, the stores and restaurants are run by Spaniards who are thrilled when you speak Spanish to them.  Although the area is overrun with Brits, very few of the local workers speak English so I wound up being the translator for our group in restaurants and stores.  I love everything Spanish and spending the week speaking the language was such a treat.  The month prior to this trip I was in Havana so having another opportunity to speak Spanish again was a gift.

one of many shops selling flamenco inspired clothing

Although we were busy with wedding events, we were able to squeeze in a couple of day trips to Ronda and Tangier.  Ronda is between Marbella and Seville and is located in the mountains.  The drive up there was a bit frightening for me yet didn't seem to bother the local motorcyclists who navigated the  narrow, winding road at high speed.  Once we reached Ronda I was thrilled that we had decided to visit this historically important city.  The vistas are extraordinary and the town is easily explored on foot.  Many of the local stores carry flamenco attire but make sure you do your shopping before siesta time - the streets are completely deserted after 4pm.  We left during siesta but had we stayed, the hustle and bustle of the town would have returned after 6 or 7pm.  If you decide to purchase any flamenco attire, please read the labels.  Some pieces are made in Seville, Spain and some are made in China.  The better quality fabric is from Spain so feel it, read it, and ask.

The ancient city of Ronda

Ronda

After the wedding activities were completed we chose to spend a day in Africa.  It seemed so odd to say that I was going to Africa for the day but when one is in southern Spain, this is a relatively simple thing to do.  We drove to the coastal town of Tarifa where a ferry waits to take tourists to Tangier.  Here are a couple of tips:
1. when you purchase your round trip tickets, it is cheaper to take the tour package rather than just a round trip ticket.  This was a dilemma for the doctor and me because we are not fond of tours.  Tour companies always stop at souvenir shops where they most likely receive some sort of monetary compensation but it wastes time that could otherwise be used for exploring something of real interest.  Since we wanted to save money, we decided to take a chance on the package deal that included the round trip boat ride and tour but we were correct:  we were taken to places that attempted to sell us useless items.
2.  The boat ride claims to reach Tangier in a half an hour but it is closer to an hour.
3.  You will notice tourists lining up inside the boat.  Make sure you get in this line to have your passport stamped.  We did not know this and held our tour group up as we waited for the customs officer to return to the boat to stamp our passports (thank goodness we were not the only nudniks).
4.  Our tour guide was very sweet and knowledgeable.  He spoke at least 8 languages and translated information consecutively in all of the languages of the tourists in his care.
5.  The tour bus takes you to the highest point of Tangier to see the mansions occupied by the Moroccan and Saudi royalty as well as a view of the point where the Mediterranean and Atlantic Ocean meet.
6.  We did stop to buy souvenirs and I must admit that I didn't mind this because I love to bargain and wound up purchasing a beautiful caftan and set of drums for my son.  However, we spent a little too much time here that could have been spent in the market.

Moroccan souvenirs.

7.  We had lunch at a lovely restaurant and were serenaded by Berber musicians.  Some of the restaurant staff danced spontaneously to this lively music and had I not been sandwiched into my booth I too, would have swiveled my hips with delight.

just a girl and her camel

8.  Our guide took us through an indoor markets where country women dressed in colorful clothing sell spices and cheese wrapped in palm fronds.  Unfortunately, we were taken to an herbalist for an information/selling spiel which wasted a lot of time.

take me to the kasbah

9.  We were only given 20 minutes in the outdoor market which burned me.  I really wanted to spend the day in the market and Tangier is not a city you can see in one day even though most of it is easily accessible on foot.  I will gladly pay the full amount for the round-trip ticket next time and stay overnight.  This magnificent city is worth exploring and must be given one's full attention.

Each time I leave Spain, I promise myself I will return.  I love southern Spain and Marbella is a perfect place to relax and use as a springboard to exploring its Spanish and Moorish neighbors.  We have decided to return and rent a condo for a month during the off season.  I urge you to visit here and visit often.  You will not be sorry.

Winter Wonderland in Paris

Grand Palais

The doctor and I had not visited Paris in 6 years.  We missed it terribly but decided to explore other countries before returning.  Yet, we continually echoed each other's sentiments as we sighed and pondered an evening stroll through charming streets filled with cafes and beautifully appointed boutique windows.
 In October, the son called and said that he was going to Buenos Aires, Argentina for Christmas to meet his girlfriend's family.  While I normally would encourage such travel I was saddened by the thought that I would not have my son with me during the Christmas holidays for the first time since he was born.  After spending time feeling sorry for myself, the doctor mentioned that Christmas in Paris would be just the remedy for a broken heart.  While nothing could replace spending the holiday with family, I relented and agreed to spend two weeks in Paris.

le Printemps

This would be our 4th trip to the City of Lights.  We have never stayed in a Parisian hotel even though many are oozing with charm.  We love the idea of feeling part of a neighborhood and local colour so we rent apartments in  neighborhoods that appeal to us.  The last apartment was in St. Germain des Pres.  This arrondissement is gorgeous but the apartment was not.  It was clean and acceptable but definitely not attractive.  The hunt was on for something new and the doctor found a charming place in the Marais, another favorite neighborhood.  Now one can say that every neighborhood has its charm and this is true but the Marais is such a diverse and trendy area.  One can see young Orthodox Jewish boys promoting Chabad in front of a small, unmarked synagogue on Sunday, lively gay bars, young French hipsters engaging in deep conversation in local boîtes, and tourists from around the globe.  The diverse nature of this neighbourhood is very appealing to my traveler's heart and I felt very much at home in this medieval neighbourhood.
We arrived late in the day on December 23rd.  After unpacking and visiting the local Monoprix for groceries, we embarked on an evening stroll to Hotel de Ville (city hall).  This beautifully appointed building was sparkling with festive lights which added to the holiday spirit of the skaters who were enjoying the ice rink across the street.  It was such a treat to watch the Parisians skating to cheesy eighties music on this warm winter evening.
We continued our stroll to St. Germain des Pres which had a beautiful Christmas market, one of many during the Christmas holiday in Paris.  The temporary outdoor shops sell a variety of goods:  clothing, jewelry, toys, decorations, and food.  We found one vendor selling nougat.  Now when I think of nougat, I think of hard candy that borders on stale. But in the markets, this nougat is a soft, sugary delight that is highly addictive.  I ate most of it on the way home even though eating on the street in Paris is a no no unless you are eating near a booth selling take away food.

Christmas Market

Before returning to our new Parisian home, we stopped in Notre Dame and observed an evening service.  It was so beautiful and certainly put me in the Christmas spirit.

I was dreading Christmas Eve without the son and woke up feeling sad and missing family.  I chose to ignore my yearning for home and hearth and followed the doctor for a day of window shopping in the City of Lights.  Parisian department stores Gallerie Lafayette and le Printemps' windows were a Christmas delight.  Families crowded around the windows to catch a glimpse of luxury goods adorned with dancing figures and mechanical animals.  These windows brought back such fond memories of my childhood in downtown Rochester during the holidays.  The interior of Gallerie Lafayette was equally beautiful with a giant tree decorated with Swarovski crystals that reached the stained glass roof of the store.

Christmas tree in Gallerie Lafayette

After a lovely stroll along St. Martin, we met our New York friends the Zbars for dinner at a quaint little bistro called Le Mesturet.  The Zbars have been visiting Paris since their childhoods and have family in the city.  They suggested many places for us to visit that are unfamiliar to those of us who do not have the privilege of French citizenship.
Since I was still missing home and family, the doctor and I chose to end the evening with a midnight service at the 12th century cathedral near our apartment.  It was a delight to hear carols sung in French.

Christmas Day was very quiet so we decided to explore the Marais with its funky little stores and charming restaurants.  We chose a little neighborhood bistro called Camille and were not disappointed.  The food was excellent and it was a great opportunity for us to practice our French.

New Year's Eve in Paris is simply magical.  We met our friends the Zbars at the Hotel Regina where they have stayed for many years.  We shared cocktails and hors d'oeuvres in one of the beautifully decorated main rooms with the owner of the hotel.  She was a delightful woman who inherited the hotel from her father.  We walked across the bridge to the Left Bank and had dinner at Chez Domonet which was a perfect spot to celebrate the new year.  However, we decided to make our New Year's Eve toast in the Zbar's hotel suite that faced the Eiffel Tower which would be lit at midnight.  But midnight did not wait for our return to the hotel. As we walked across the bridge which spans the width of the Seine River, the Eiffel Tower sparkled like a diamond as people cheered, horns beeped, and kissing commenced.  I had forgotten about the drizzling rain as I looked around feeling the love of Paris wrapping its beautiful arms around me.

Lloyd and Margo Zbar, Doctor and me

Since it is unnecessary to describe each day of our trip, I will list the must things to do in Paris and if your are there during the Christmas holidays.  Some of these tips are from Maven Margo Zbar and her Parisian family.

Restaurants:

Marais:  make sure to try the falafel and Jewish delecacies in the Marais.  Remember, this is an Orthodox Jewish neighborhood so don't expect any of the Orthodox shops to be be open during Shabbat (Friday night until Saturday at sundown)

Le Mesturet
77 rue de Richelieu

Camille
corner of rue Elzévir and rue des Francs-Bourgeois

LeChannsonier
14 Rue Eugène Varlin

Chez Dumonet (outstanding place to spend New Year's Eve)
117, rue du Cherche-Midi

Must see:
When visiting Montmarte, walk down the hill to the non-touristy part of town.  This area is really nice and the shops and restaurants cater to a local crowd rather than the tourists who seem to favor the area on the hill.

Jewish Tour:
With so much anti-semitism in France, I was surprised to see so many synagogues in the city.  We explored the Marais and found many unmarked shuls.  One evening during Shabbat, we discovered the Great Synagogue of Paris on 44 Rue de la Victoire.  The service was ending but they still let us in so we could see how magnificient this shul is.
One must visit Belleville which is home to the Edith Piaf museum and is now inhabited by young hipsters, blue collar Parisians, Muslims, and Tunisian Jews.  There is a market which ends in the early afternoon but I will definitely return for it one day.  This market stretches along the center of the main boulevard rue Belleville and is filled with Middle Eastern delights.  On one side of the street, the shops are owned by Muslims and the other side of the street is occupied by Tunisian Jews.  One of the Tunisian cafes had live Middle Eastern music for the patrons.

Chabad boys

plaque recognizing the children
murdered at this school
by the Nazis.

One of the most important things to notice regarding Parisian Jewish history is the recognition of the Vichy involvement in the Holocaust.  This is very recent and is commemorated with signage on schools, homes and various buildings throughout Paris.
The Jewish Museum must be visited but reading the signs on schools where hundreds of Jewish children and teachers were rounded up and taken to death camps are a constant reminder of the cruelty of the Vichy government and its collaboration with the Nazis.

school where Jewish children were rounded up
and murdered by the Nazis.

Don't bother:
The consignment shops are worth a look but do not offer any bargains.  I was looking for a Chanel bag and there are many in these shops but they are not much less than a new bag.

Must do:

Purchase a Navigo subway pass.  It will save you a great deal of money and you can continue to use it any time you visit Paris.  http://parisbytrain.com/paris-train-metro-week-pass-navigo-decouverte/

Take a ride on one of the boats that tour the Seine.  During the winter months, one can remain warm inside the boat while observing this beautiful city by water.
After touring the Louvre, walk next door to the Museum of Decorative Arts.  This is often overlooked in favor of the Louvre but is equally impressive.

There are two museums that seem to be a well-kept secret of the French.  These former mansions of wealthy Parisians in the Haussman area are frequented by French citizens.  Maven Margo told us about them and they were definitely worth the visit.
Museé Jacquement-André
Museé de Nissam Camondo

Musee Jacquement-Andre

Clignancourt Marché
A visit to this market is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon.  It is huge and requires more than one visit.  However, there are no bargains here but occasionally you may find something reasonable if you look hard enough.

One of the many stores at Clignancourt Marche

There are many vintage clothing stores in Paris.  Some of the best ones are located in the Marais, Les Halles, and Clignancourt.  Many of the shops carry vintage fur coats, hats, and muffs.  I now wish that I had purchased some of the coats because they were very reasonable and in good shape.

Modus Gallery
23 Place des Vosges
This is a fabulous gallery that carries some of the best pieces by new artists.  My favorite New York artist, TMNK exhibits his work here and the prices of his work is much more than I paid for my original TMNK.  So glad to see that he is recognized and doing well.

La Métmorphose des Matériaux
48 rue Vieille du Temple
This exhibit was extraordinary and featured artists who work with metal.  If it is on again in Paris, definitely go and see it.

Bon Marché
This department store in on par with Gallerie Lafayette and Printemps but what makes it unique is the food market on the main floor.  You will find every type of gourmet food and Parisian baked goods that rival the best patisseries in Paris.  The take away meals are varied and fresh.  Don't leave without buying something.

rue Montaigne
I assumed that rue Honore was the most fashionable street in Paris with its many high-end clothing stores but I was wrong.  One evening, we stumbled upon rue Montaigne which is near the Champs Elysees.  This street is lined with designer stores and the stunning Hotel Plaza Atheneé.  It is so beautiful and worth an evening stroll.

Costes
239 rue Saint-Honoré near Place Vendrome
This is the swankiest hotel and bar in Paris.  All of the chicest people gather in this bar but the design of the hotel is out of this world.  Walk through and pretend you belong.  You won't regret it.

Christmas markets
If you are fortunate enough to be in Paris during the Christmas holidays, you will find many Christmas markets in various areas around the city.  Some of the markets are small but equally delightful.  The smaller ones are located in Montmarte, Gard du Nord and the larger ones are in St. Germain des Pres and the Champs Elysees.  The latter is huge and stretches along both sides of this street finishing at the Arch de Triumph.  There are whimsical lighting displays everywhere and the shops sell a variety of goods.  This market also has the most innovative skating rink I have ever seen.  It is a small road that leads skaters around the market through displays of mechanical animals and wintery scenes.

Christmas decorations at the market on the Champs Elysees

Versailles
We were told that Paris was busier this year than ever before.  This was obvious to us as we attempted to navigate our way through crowded streets and markets.  But the busiest place was The Palace of Versailles which is located in the city of Versailles about 40 minutes outside the city of Paris.  We had purchased advance tickets but this did not offer us any VIP status once we arrived.  The lines were long and the wait to enter the palace was two hours.  We chose to stroll the grounds instead and visit the smaller homes of Marie Antoinette,  the Petite Trianon and Grand Trianon which were extraordinary.  I was upset that we did not see the main palace but this gives me incentive to visit Paris again.

Grand Trianon

Although I was initially saddened by the absence of family during the holiday season, I was happy to spend the time in Paris.  It will always remain one of my favourite cities and its beauty never grows old and tiresome.  I look forward to visiting again and discovering more of the stunning architecture and delightful little boutiques and boîtes.

French Bulldogs are the dog of choice in Paris