Verona

Verona

Sunday, October 20, 2013

Just a girl and her camel: Marbella, Ronda and Tangiers

Marbella
Marbella
 Well mavens, I have not been as diligent lately with my travel blogging.  I could come up with some outrageous story that would seem fitting for a travel maven but the truth is that I have been spending more time traveling to the states to care for elderly parents than to exotic locales.  That said, I was still able to fit in a return trip to Havana, a few days in the Big Apple, a week in Marbella, Spain and while there, day trips to Ronda, Spain and Tangier, Morocco.

Puerto Banus
Since I have spoken at great length in the past about my love affair with Havana, I will begin with a glorious week in the southern part of Spain which is now on my favourite places list.  There are many places to stay in the area but since we were attending a wedding we were told that most of the guests were staying at the Melia Puerto Banus in Puerto Banus which is one mile from the centre of Marbella. We couldn't have chosen a better place to stay and use as our base to explore this beautiful part of the world.  This hotel faces the ocean and our room had a bird's eye view of the water.  Each day, I sat on our balcony overlooking one of the two hotel pools and the beach which stretches along the coastline.  On a clear day, one can see Gibraltar and the northern coast of Africa.


Puerto Banus is very different than Marbella.  This little town is dotted with yachts owned by Saudi princes, upscale shops and restaurants.  Restaurants and shops were a short walk from our hotel and the city core is modern and clean.  Other than Bal Harbour, Florida, I have never seen so many luxury cars in one area.  I am told that when one of the Saudi princes arrives with his entourage, the town is swarming with servants and more Louis Vuitton luggage than the local LV store has in stock.
This area has a record number of days with sunshine; yet, the peak season is in the summer when the weather is the warmest.  Unlike the Caribbean, the winter months are cool so ocean swimming may not be an option.  We visited in late May which provided perfectly nice weather and off season rates that double during the summer months.  Like most areas in southern Spain, the architecture is Moorish; white and accented with handmade tiles.  One would assume due to the upscale nature of this town that the restaurants would be expensive but not so.  I found the prices fair which may be attributed to the dire straits of the Spanish economy but I am just speculating.
boardwalk between Marbella and Puerto Banus
It is very easy to reach Marbella from Puerto Banus.  One can walk along the boardwalk (which is parallel to the beach) for an hour and a bit, rent a bike, or drive along the main road.  We mainly walked around the area  but rented a car in Malaga so we could explore other towns in the vicinity. Driving in Spain is fairly easy despite the tricky roundabouts.  One day we decided to rent bikes.  There is a local bike company which was contacted by our concierge and for a small fee, our bikes were delivered to our hotel.  This is another pleasant way to explore the area and travel along the boardwalk.
on our way to dinner in Marbella with friends
Marbella is very different than Puerto Banus.  The newer section is near the water but once one climbs one of the hilly streets, one is transported back to Medieval times and ancient Spain.  There are many historic buildings to explore and quaint little shops that are modern and varied.  The linen and cotton clothing is reasonable and tapas restaurants abound.  This is the Spain I know and love; yet, is equipped with modern conveniences.
One of the many beautiful churches in Marbella

This area is unique in another sense - its population is 80% British.  Many British expats have settled here so you will hear English spoken; however, the stores and restaurants are run by Spaniards who are thrilled when you speak Spanish to them.  Although the area is overrun with Brits, very few of the local workers speak English so I wound up being the translator for our group in restaurants and stores.  I love everything Spanish and spending the week speaking the language was such a treat.  The month prior to this trip I was in Havana so having another opportunity to speak Spanish again was a gift.
one of many shops selling flamenco inspired clothing
Although we were busy with wedding events, we were able to squeeze in a couple of day trips to Ronda and Tangier.  Ronda is between Marbella and Seville and is located in the mountains.  The drive up there was a bit frightening for me yet didn't seem to bother the local motorcyclists who navigated the  narrow, winding road at high speed.  Once we reached Ronda I was thrilled that we had decided to visit this historically important city.  The vistas are extraordinary and the town is easily explored on foot.  Many of the local stores carry flamenco attire but make sure you do your shopping before siesta time - the streets are completely deserted after 4pm.  We left during siesta but had we stayed, the hustle and bustle of the town would have returned after 6 or 7pm.  If you decide to purchase any flamenco attire, please read the labels.  Some pieces are made in Seville, Spain and some are made in China.  The better quality fabric is from Spain so feel it, read it, and ask.
The ancient city of Ronda

Ronda
















After the wedding activities were completed we chose to spend a day in Africa.  It seemed so odd to say that I was going to Africa for the day but when one is in southern Spain, this is a relatively simple thing to do.  We drove to the coastal town of Tarifa where a ferry waits to take tourists to Tangier.  Here are a couple of tips:
1. when you purchase your round trip tickets, it is cheaper to take the tour package rather than just a round trip ticket.  This was a dilemma for the doctor and me because we are not fond of tours.  Tour companies always stop at souvenir shops where they most likely receive some sort of monetary compensation but it wastes time that could otherwise be used for exploring something of real interest.  Since we wanted to save money, we decided to take a chance on the package deal that included the round trip boat ride and tour but we were correct:  we were taken to places that attempted to sell us useless items.
2.  The boat ride claims to reach Tangier in a half an hour but it is closer to an hour.
3.  You will notice tourists lining up inside the boat.  Make sure you get in this line to have your passport stamped.  We did not know this and held our tour group up as we waited for the customs officer to return to the boat to stamp our passports (thank goodness we were not the only nudniks).
4.  Our tour guide was very sweet and knowledgeable.  He spoke at least 8 languages and translated information consecutively in all of the languages of the tourists in his care.
5.  The tour bus takes you to the highest point of Tangier to see the mansions occupied by the Moroccan and Saudi royalty as well as a view of the point where the Mediterranean and Atlantic Ocean meet.
6.  We did stop to buy souvenirs and I must admit that I didn't mind this because I love to bargain and wound up purchasing a beautiful caftan and set of drums for my son.  However, we spent a little too much time here that could have been spent in the market.
Moroccan souvenirs.
7.  We had lunch at a lovely restaurant and were serenaded by Berber musicians.  Some of the restaurant staff danced spontaneously to this lively music and had I not been sandwiched into my booth I too, would have swiveled my hips with delight.
just a girl and her camel
8.  Our guide took us through an indoor markets where country women dressed in colorful clothing sell spices and cheese wrapped in palm fronds.  Unfortunately, we were taken to an herbalist for an information/selling spiel which wasted a lot of time.
take me to the kasbah
9.  We were only given 20 minutes in the outdoor market which burned me.  I really wanted to spend the day in the market and Tangier is not a city you can see in one day even though most of it is easily accessible on foot.  I will gladly pay the full amount for the round-trip ticket next time and stay overnight.  This magnificent city is worth exploring and must be given one's full attention.

Each time I leave Spain, I promise myself I will return.  I love southern Spain and Marbella is a perfect place to relax and use as a springboard to exploring its Spanish and Moorish neighbors.  We have decided to return and rent a condo for a month during the off season.  I urge you to visit here and visit often.  You will not be sorry.