Verona

Verona

Sunday, July 22, 2018

Havana: One step forward two steps backwards

My followers are now acutely aware of my love of Cuba and specially, Havana.  I have moved on from staying in hotels, to renting apartments, and now sharing an apartment with my best Cuban friend.  This apartment will be available for rent as soon as the new rental licences are issued in December 2018.  It will be listed on Airbnb and Booking.com.

Change is always the word of the day in Cuba and many folks in Havana are seeking new opportunities in a variety of new ways.  Retail sales of clothing, escooters, motorcycles, and food are providing families with the extra cash they so desperately need.  During this last trip, I could not believe how many escooters were on the road.  They are being brought in from Panama and are sold for around $1750.-$2400. CUC depending on the type of battery used.  This is a huge expense for a Cuban; however, if one is renting space in one's home, holds down a few jobs in tourism-related businesses, then this handy form of transportation is obtainable.

Another new business is the sale of clothing and household items purchased in Guyana.  Cubans can easily obtain a visa to travel to this country which offers cheap clothing, accessories, and household supplies.  Women travel in groups to Guyana (safety in numbers) and stay for a week during which many bags are filled with necessary items for family and friends as well as newly acquired customers.  I must say that Cubans are dressing really well these days due to this new influx of trendy clothing.

Tourism has always been a huge source of income for Cubans and the government.   Tours are always readily available but there is one company that stands out.  My friend Marissa owns a company called MariMundo:  marimundo.com.  The reason this company is unique is that Marissa will tailor make an itinerary that suits each tourists' needs.  Want to visit Marissa's family tobacco farm in Pinar del Rio?  How about horseback riding, ziplining, fishing, or beach time?   Would you like to ride in a vintage pink Cadillac, go clubbing at all the newest spots in Havana, eat at the best restaurants, need taxi service, a place to stay?  The list is endless and so are Marissa's contacts.
Marissa's blog will inform you about all aspects of Cuban life, what to bring for Cubans, and for all of our American friends, how to still travel freely (yes you can) to Cuba.
Follow Marissa on Instagram:  mimaincuba
You will love her and her cocker spaniel puppy.
beautiful Marissa


The music scene is always thriving in Havana.  The newest and hottest group at the moment is Cimafunk.  The band's lead singer, composer, and performer extraordinaire is Erik Alejandro Rodriguez.  He is a modern day James Brown and is by far the coolest dude in Cuba.  The band's  album, Terapia can be found on iTunes and believe me, I listen to it constantly.  I am trying to bring the band to Canada and find Canadian representation for them because they are superstars.  Let's make this happen my dear readers.


The Vedado area near the Almendares River is becoming the hottest area in Havana.  The neighbourhood is beautiful, quiet, yet full of great street life.  There are great restaurants, grocery stores, beautiful homes, as well as music venues such as FAC, Casa de la musica (on the other side of the river in Miramar), as well as small restaurants that feature local musicians.  The upscale restaurant of El Cocinero is attached to FAC (which also has a great restaurant).  If you want tasty but inexpensive Cuban food, I highly recommend Karma.  And of course, the place to mingle with the coolest people in Havana while sipping a latte is Cuba Libro.  This local hotspot is always buzzing with art exhibits, book launchings, as well as stimulating discussions with owner Conner Gorry.  The cafe also supports so many worthwhile local causes which is another reason to be a frequent customer at this sweet little corner of this hood.

This funky little neighbourhood is located between Lines and Calle 23.  It begins after Paseo and ends at the Almendares River.  Every street has something great to offer so take some time to stroll around the area and enjoy.  You won't be disappointed.

Southern Italy should be on your bucket list

Bari

I was born and raised in Rochester, New York, a hub of southern Italian and Sicilian food and customs.  For me, pizza is not pizza unless it is made in Rochester by Sicilians.  That said, the doctor and I felt another trip to Italy was necessary.  This time, we would explore the boot and all of its charms.
We began our trip in the large seaside city of Bari.  I knew nothing of Bari except that many friends' family members emigrated from there.  I was curious about this intriguing city with so many ties to Rochester that I had to see it for myself.  I was not disappointed.
Bari is a mixture of high culture and seafaring men who engage in heated card games on the street.

The fisherman can be seen at night along the beautifully lit walkway along the water's edge bringing in the catch of the day for the next day's sale.  If one is an early bird, the lively activity at the fish market is Bari at its theatrical best and the frutti di mare is still squirming, hoping to find its way back to the sea.  The most intriguing sea delight is the sea urchin or riccio di mare.  This little critter is a spiny little ball that is cracked in half and then rid of its green liquid membrane.  The orange flesh that remains is eaten raw and often on a piece of crusty Italian bread.  I assumed that this was indigenous to the Puglia area but lo and behold, I found it on our street in Palermo but still passed it up.

This delightful city is very cosmopolitan with great architecture, shops, restaurants, and bars for all ages.  There is a section near the waterfront that is a very cool pedestrian only area filled with interesting restaurants and bars that are not filled until much later at night.  This area seems to attract a younger crowd, but hey, I'm young at heart and can stay up past 11 so I was eager to try it.  Unfortunately, the doctor has a different bedtime schedule so we observed, made mental notes and called it a night.

There are a number of different neighbourhoods of equal interest in Bari.  We were fortunate enough to rent an apartment in the medieval section of the city.  The streets are a tangled web of surprises with small piazzas still occupied by the same families for generations.  Our piazza was no different.  The apartment we rented was very small but charming; however, the interesting note is that this tiny space was once home to a family of 13.  We never needed to lock our doors or close them when we were home because each occupant of this piazza looks out for one another; hence, no need for additional security measures.  I wish all cities were like Bari.

This sweet neighbourhood was home to many tiny shops selling meat, cheese, wine, and some household supplies.  Some women were drying their homemade pasta in wooden bins on the street.  Exterior home displays of the Madonna were the norm, often encased in a wooden frame with glass and adorned with flowers and candles.  One can assume that life has changed very little in this neighbourhood for hundreds of years.

has its own pottery designs that are unique to the area.  The riccio di mare is revered and is honoured with its likeness in beautiful ceramica of varying sizes and colours.  I am so glad I chose to buy one because I was unable to find any more in all of Puglia.

Cisternino and Alberobello and the beauty of the Trulli

Trulli structures have been on my bucket list for quite some time.  I follow Vogue editor, Anna Dello Russo on Instagram for two reasons:  she is outrageous and a fashion trendsetter and lives in Cisternino in a Trullo house.  Anna often features her stunning home and the town of Cisternino and I was determined to travel to this town and find Anna's home.  

Once we arrived in Cisternino, the doctor and I parked the car and looked for Anna's favourite restaurant.  We couldn't find it.  We also noticed that the countryside around this bland little town is dotted with hundreds of trulli homes.  My shoulders dropped because I knew that the doctor was not keen on driving around looking for Anna's house.  I tried whining a bit and telling him that if Anna knew I was looking for her that she might invite me in for an espresso.  Well, the whining didn't work and my Where's Waldo moment died so we decided to drive to Alberobello where the trulli are clustered together in a small town and easier to observe.  

All was not lost. The drive between Cisternino and Alberobello was worth the disappointment of not finding Anna's home (well, almost).  The countryside is filled with trulli in every shape, form, and state of decline and restoration.  They are the most beautiful structures of bleached white stucco and stone roofs.  Some of the structures are combined with modern additions that work well with these ancient abodes and each home is unique and a complement to its owner's taste and whimsy.

Once we reached Alberobello we were mesmerized by the beauty of the cluster of white stone buildings sitting on top of a hill reflecting the sky's light.  I thought I had died and gone to heaven.  Once we reached the top of the hill and began exploring the town, we were disappointed with the number of tacky souvenir shops housed in these magnificent structures.  I thought we might find some more of the beautiful ceramica we saw in Bari but no such luck.  Each street was littered with one tacky store selling cheap crap that was most likely made in China.  Two disappointments:  No Anna and no Apuglia ceramica.  Well, I did get to see the trulli and I still love them.


Hits and Misses in Sicily

We have been fortunate enough to see many cities in Sicily.  Some are better than others so I thought I would give my readers my two cents regarding what is a must and what is not.

I must mention that the doctor and I are walkers.  We can see a small city in a day and cover about 5-8 miles at a time.  When we were a bit younger, we could cover more ground but we still seem to be able to see the major sites in record time.  All of the cities mentioned below were covered by us in a day; however, if you are not a long distance walker, you may wish to spend two days discovering the charms of each city.

Hits

Taormina:  a stunning mountain top city loaded with charm, historic sites, great food and plenty of ceramica to choose from.  If you are not planning on visiting Caltigirone, then consider buying your pieces here.  The stores will ship to your home if you are unable to carry your purchases on the plane.
If you do decide to stay for a few days, spend some time below the city and enjoy the lovely beaches. The water is still warm and enjoyable in November.

Caltagirone:  This beautiful city is known for its steep stairway that is adorned with flowers in May.  We were there in March so it was not as pleasant as May but the advantage is that you can easily see the city in a day and purchase great ceramica for greatly reduced prices because it is off season.  Do not buy from shops in the main square.  Head to Via Roma where the artisans are working in their studios.  This street is lined with shops and workshops which provides great window shopping.  Do not be afraid to bargain for prices.  Warning:  this city, like many in Sicily, is very hilly.  Wear good shoes and be prepared to climb if you want to really see the city and the stunning vistas from the old part of the city.

Messina:  We had no idea that we would find Messina so enchanting - lovely buildings, green spaces, and flat enough for the novice walker.  It is an easy ferry ride from Reggio Calabria to this port city.  The evenings are filled with people of all ages strolling the main shopping streets and sipping espresso at outdoor cafes.

Siracusa and Ortigia:  Ortigia is a stunning port area that is actually an island and part of the city of Siracusa.  It has great outdoor markets, upscale dining, a Jewish quarter with a hotel that has an ancient Mikvah below the hotel.  There are many Roman and Greek ruins to explore.

San Cataldo:  I mention San Cataldo for a number of reasons.  It is a lovely city but not on the same level as Taormina or Caltagirone.  However, it is an important city because many Sicilian-Americans left here at the turn of the 20th century when the mines closed in this area.  If you were to poll Americans from the Scranton, Pennsylvania area as well as Rochester, New York and New York City, you would find that many of the present populations of these cities have ancestors for San Cataldo and its neighbouring city of Caltanissetta.   San Cataldo is home to Chiesa Madre, the mother church built in 1633.  It is a stunning cathedral and one of many important churches found in this city.  The Pasqua Settimana Santa is the most elaborate of any of the celebrations throughout Italy.  The entire population of San Cataldo is involved in one way or another and the streets become home to a passion play and processions extraordinaire for five full days.
This city also has one of the best bakeries in Sicily called Imera.  Its owner and pastry chef, Giovanni Imera is a master and one should not leave Sicily without sampling his delicious pastries.

Monreale:  If you are spending the week in Palermo, Monreale is a short drive away.  It has a great cathedral that is famous and worth the trip.  

Erice:  This is another day trip one can do from a home base in Palermo.  It is a mountain top medieval city above the city of Trapani.  Trapani is pretty but the main attraction is Erice.  Ride the funicular to the top and remember to bring a sweater or coat.  It is chilly up there.

Agrigento:  Agrigento is a must for anyone visiting Sicily.  It is an ancient Greek settlement that has been preserved beautifully.  In fact, many say that the temples in Agrigento are in better shape than those you would see in Greece.  Stroll through the remains while glancing down to the deep turquoise sea.  You will not want to miss this.  If you are using Palermo as a base, you can be in Agrigento by car in two hours.  It is an easy day trip.

Cefalu:  If you are staying in Palermo, there are many little day trips one can do by car.  Cefalu is about an hour away from Palermo and depending on what your interests are, you can see it all in one day or spend a week here enjoying the gorgeous beach, eating great food, and exploring this tourist friendly city.

San Vito di Capo: The film Mary Magdelene was recently filmed here, posing as ancient Galilee.  The beach is heavenly and one can rent any one of the charming beach homes that dot the coastline.  I would recommend the beach homes owned by Vera and Teresa Werber who also own the apartment we love in Palermo.

Misses

Catania:  The doctor and I find value in every place we visit so nothing is every a true miss.  However, if your schedule is tight and you want to see the best of Sicily, I would recommend skipping Catania.  The main square with the famous elephant sculpture is lovely and one can climb to the top of a museum for a good look at Mount Etna, but the view of the volcano can also be viewed from Taormina which is a better use of your money and time.
We did stay in a stunning apartment with frescoed ceilings but the apartment was so big that we found it very cold.  The landlord did leave space heaters for us which helped.  The other disadvantage was that the bathroom was quite far away from the bedroom which made it difficult for my elderly doctor to make his multiple nightly trips to the loo.  The location of the apartment was close to the beautiful fish market and main square which made sightseeing rather easy.  

The best route to use to explore the island

As I have already mentioned, we began our trip on the mainland of Italy.  If you would like to begin your trip in Sicily, there are many ways to do this but I think that this route might prove to be the best.
Begin your trip in Messina and work along the eastern coast and travel westward.  Once you reach Agrigento, travel inland and northeast to the towns mentioned above, finishing this part of the journey in San Cataldo.  Continue north to Palermo and remain here in our favourite apartment and use as a base to explore all of the charming cities near it.

Palermo

What else can I say but that I love Palermo.  It is a great city with beautiful parks, great food, stunning waterfront and views, cool neighbourhoods with young artists, cafes filled with university students from the nearby University of Palermo.  There are an abundance of  historically important works of architecture as well as the delightful combination of high culture mingling with fishmongers who speak a distinct dialect of Sicilian that some Sicilians claim to not understand.  Some of these ancient structures have not been repaired since World War Two.  However, they stand as reminders of the perils of war and the poverty that has plagued the island during times of hardship.  Young artists have taken ownership of these structures and decorate them with artistic renderings of youthful Sicilian ideas influenced by the various ancient cultures that have dominated the island.  If you stay in Palermo in October, all of the major buildings normally not open to the public are available for tours. You can purchase a booklet of passes or individual passes at each building. 


We were fortunate to have found the perfect apartment in Palermo.  Although the city is primarily on the water, there are few buildings that have a water view.  The doctor knows that a water view is paramount to my travel pleasure and found this apartment that had everything and more.  Our landlord Vera Werber or one of her delightful children will meet you at this spotless apartment.  This home must be at least 2000 square feet and is surrounded by French windows with wrought iron Juliet balconies that allow one to see the city from three directions.  The terrace is essentially an outdoor room where we spent most of our time, enjoying a glass of wine and watching the ferries come and go from the nearby port.  Similar to other cities in Sicily, local transportation is available, but it is a very walkable city that is safe and beautiful when lit by sunshine or dim street lamps at night.
The grocery store is a five minute walk from the apartment and restaurants are everywhere so you will never starve.  And folks, it is Sicily - all of the food is delicious, even the street food.

If I were able, I would return to Sicily every year to visit family, more towns and cities and stay in my favourite apartment in Palermo.  If you are like me and do not wish to spend your winter in Florida playing golf and bridge, then head to Sicily and be ready to fall in love over and over again.

AirBnB Apartments I recommend

Ortigia/Siracusa
https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/12000593?s=51

Messina
https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/18968966?s=51

Bari
https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/2729196?s=51
* This is apartment is in a great location and is very cute with a modern bathroom.  There is a minimal kitchen and not suitable for lengthy stays.

Caltagirone
https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/10739976?s=51
The most beautiful breakfast is made and served by the owner.

Palermo
https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/2575823?s=51
This is our favourite apartment in the world.  It is located on the top floor of a modern building with a huge terrace that overlooks the parts of the city, sea, and mountains.  This apartment has every modern convenience and is located in a perfect neighbourhood close to a large grocery store, major shopping streets, an art district, many restaurants, and the most sinful bakeries on the island.  Vera is a tremendous host and she and her sister also own two stunning rental homes on the sea in Lo Vito de Capo which is located one and one half hours north of Palermo.

Thursday, February 22, 2018

Belgium is more than beer and frites

It has been nearly a year since the doctor and I traveled to Belgium and southern France for a month. My life is just too darn busy folks, but since we are leaving for Sicily in three weeks and will have much to report, I thought I would sit at my desk this morning and give my readers an overview of the fabulous trip last year.

For those of you who follow me religiously, you are aware that we rent apartments as often as possible.  We love this type of accommodation for many reasons:  our own space with our own time constraints, to feel as one with the city and area, to save money on meals, and experience life as a local by grocery shopping, visiting the markets and local stores, attempting to speak the language,  learning to master a language by immersing oneself in the present culture, speak to and befriend locals who may become life-long friends.  Occasionally, we may stay in a hotel if we are in a city for a few days but generally, we prefer the comfort of our home away from home.

Now on to Brussels.  The doctor always chooses the best apartments that are centrally located, clean, well-appointed, and with luck, outstanding hosts who give of their time to let one know about life in the city for locals and cool things to do outside of the general tourist fare.  Out interests are history, architecture, points of interest known only to locals, and for me, off the tourist track restaurants, vintage furniture and clothing stores, and innovative new clothing designers.  Let's just say that Brussels did not disappoint.

I missed the first day because I arrived with the flu.  Thank goodness our beautiful apartment in the centre of town had two beds so I didn't share my germs with the doctor.  Although I still didn't feel well, I was not going to spend the rest of my time in this beautiful city in bed so I washed my face, pulled on my jeans and ventured out into the stunning main square in this hip and innovative city.

Our landlord informed us of the hip neighbourhoods which are loaded with the latest trend in furniture and clothing design.  Presently, the Belgians are forerunners in these fields so I was eager to see what was happening in this cutting-edge city.  Outside of the tourist area near the antique market square, the streets are teeming with vintage furniture and clothing stores.  The current trend in vintage furniture is Danish Modern (which has also found its way across the pond).  There are some extraordinary pieces which priced fairly and reasonably.

Since I am always in search of really good vintage clothing stores I found the creme de la creme of Brussels purely by accident or better yet, fate.  While riding the train back from Ghent, the doctor and I were sitting next to a couple who were speaking English.  We chatted with them and found out that the father lives in Canada and his daughter, Siobhan Davis lives in Brussels.  Siobhan is married to a man from Tangiers and they own a unique store on the peripheral of the antique market called House of Wunders which specializes in natural gemstones from Morocco.  She was so kind and invited us to visit her at her store.  On the day of the antique market in the square we visited Siobhan and she informed us of points of interest in Brussels as well as the vintage store right next to her.  She also offered her waterfront apartment in Tangier to us when we decide to return there.  Connections are everything, folks.

The vintage store which I believe is called Modes is the best vintage clothing store outside of Paris.  The store is arranged more like a high-end boutique rather than the typical jam-packed used clothing store which only look inviting to serious and patient shoppers.  The stunning boutique had top quality items at very reasonable prices.  I opted for a black Persian Lamb stole for 75 Euros but should have also nabbed a Burberry raincoat for an equally great price.  There was an entire rack of excellent quality Burberry coats and the prices were practically free.  Hindsight is 20/20 and I am still regretting my reluctance today.

There are a number of great shopping districts in Brussels.  There is the vintage district which I spoke about above, there is the affordable luxury fashion area with European chain stores, and the other high-fashion area with top Belgian designers and luxury brands housed in stores that are also works of art.  I was as mesmerized by the store designs as I was the fashion and how the two melded together to create a sense of installation art.

Language alert:  In Brussels the main language is French but the three other cities we visited:  Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges, the language of the masses is Flemish.

Transportation:  The train service in Belgium is superb.  The trains are cheap, clean, fast, and efficient. A round trip ticket is 12.00 Euros and since each of these aforementioned cities are nearby, a day visit is enough for general sightseeing.  Also, the cities are very walkable so it is easy to get around on foot.

A brief bit of information on day trips to Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges.

Ghent
This charming little city is bustling with restaurants and cafes on the waterfront.  It is clean, filled with historic buildings and sweet little stores.  It is definitely geared toward tourists so a one day stroll around this lovely city is enough to take in the sites.

Bruges
I have been wanting to visit Bruges since I saw the film, In Bruges.  The cinematography of this film was a love note to this beautiful city and once there, the city did not disappoint.  I have never seen such a pristine city.  In many cities in Europe, the buildings are covered with graffiti.  But not here.  The residents of Bruges obviously have great civic pride and insist on cleanliness and curb appeal.  Each home is an architectural gem lovingly restored to perfection.  The swans in the river add to the serene appeal of this picturesque city.  Strolling through the streets we marvelled at each and every building and were transported back in time forgetting that we were actually in the new millennium.  The windmills are a lovely added touch and I am surprised that more films are not shot here.  It is sheer perfection.

Antwerp
Diamonds and more Diamonds:  For my interests, one day is not enough in Antwerp.  Yes, it is beautiful yet much larger and is lacking the quaintness Ghent and Bruges.  But don't let that dissuade you.  This is city is a world-class city on a number of levels.  First of all, it has a large Hasidic community and is located near the diamond district.  Antwerp is a diamond destination and jewellers from around the world trade and shop here.  Unfortunately, we chose to visit on Shabbat (the Jewish sabbath) so many of the jewelry shops in the diamond district were closed.  The shops that remained open were owned by non-observant Jews.  However, if you are searching for a top quality stone at a reasonable price, this is the place to be.  I was intrigued but do not have a keen interest in gemstones so I was not compelled to beg the doctor for a huge rock.
Mussels and Frites:  Mussels and frites are plentiful in Belgium and can be found at most restaurants.  I use the word plentiful not just because they are readily available but because of the quantity served.  The doctor and I decided to have lunch at a lovely spot near the waterfront.  We decided to try the mussels and frites since we had not yet sampled this Belgian fare.  Once my dish arrived, the bowl was brimming with nearly 100 mussels.  Mind you, they were delicious and I love shellfish, but I was having trouble making a dent in it.  The doctor helped me with this tasty dish but we still had trouble finishing it.  When I informed my waiter that although it was outstanding I could not finish it without my husband's help, the waiter replied that many people order two bowls each.  And no one is fat in Belgium.  How is this possible?  This is right up there with rich sauces, cheese, and bread as a French diet staple and Parisians are thin.  I need to find out what their secret is.  Maybe they starve all week and load up during one meal.  Whatever it is, it seems to work for them.
Fashion:  This is a fashion capital.  In Brussels and Antwerp, one is introduced to many brilliant young designers who are featured in stores of award-winning design.  Unfortunately, I did not have enough time to peruse all of the stores in this district and the fashion museum was closed but one day I will return and spend the day in this neighbourhood.  My son had told me years ago that the young people in Antwerp had great style - he was right on the mark.  Every young person on the street was so hip.  I wish this style would rub off on North Americans who live in sweat clothes and bad sneakers.
Weddings:
There is nothing like a good wedding especially when it is catered by Party in a box.  Now I actually don't know the name of this Belgian service but it is brilliant nonetheless.  Let me digress.  Since we were in Antwerp on a Saturday, the downside was the closure of most of the diamond district but the plus side was the little treat known as the Belgian wedding.  Now we are all aware of the overblown North American wedding that can cost a pretty penny and the possible sale of a kidney but in Belgium they opt for the sensible route.  On Saturday afternoon, city hall is filled with couples exchanging vows in front of family and friends.  Wedding dresses are worn, there are some attendants but once the ceremony is through, the groups descend enmasse to the city square in front of city hall for an impromptu party filled with well-wishers, photographers, and yes, Party in a box.  What is this you ask?  Well, a little truck pulls into the square and parks.  The driver/bartender opens the side of his truck revealing a bar.  He climbs into the back of the truck producing tall tables covered in black tablecloths.  He serves the drinks while a waitress (who seems to magically appear) serves Hors d' oeuvres.  Voila!  An impromptu reception that is over in an hour or so and that probably cost a half a week's salary.  The couple is feted, the guests are fed, and everyone still has time to spend the afternoon in a cafe.
A very relaxed bride
Stores and shopping areas of interest in Brussels:

The best street for luxury shopping is Rue A. Dansaertstraat.

Just in Case
Rue Léon Lepardstraat 63
1000 Brussel
0032 (0) 511 50 01

Stijl
Rue A. Dansaertstraat 74
1000 Brussels
+32 (0)2 512 03 13
info@stijl.be
www.stijl.be

Note: If you are a serious fashionista, stop in Stijl and pick up a Fashion and Beauty Guide produced by Elle Belgium.  It lists every quality store in Brussels.  I wish I had a copy of this earlier in my trip. I would have ditched the doctor for a day and just perused all of the great fashion in this city.

Stores and shopping districts in Antwerp: (these stores are all in the same cool district)

Princess
"Little Princess"
Meir 51-53-55
2000 Antwerpen
www.princess.eu

Renaissance
Nationalestraat 28-32
2000 Antwerpen
renaissance-antwerp.com

Blue
Schrijnwerkersstr. 7
2000 Antwerpen

Bellarose
Lombardenvest 62
2000 Antwerpen

Drukkerijstraat 18-20
2000 Antwerp

Need some coffee and your dreads touched up?
Dreadlovers
(hair dye/stretchers/make-up/food/drinks/accessories/temporary exhibits)
Yes readers, you too can have coffee and a muffin while having your dreads rewaxed.  This is a great place in a funky little neighbourhood that clearly illustrates one sector of this diverse city.




Inching closer to a new Havana

As loyal readers of this blog, you are aware that I visit Havana two to three times a year.  The doctor and I are always traveling abroad together but Havana has become my private little world; a place that I now refer to as my second home.  I know my neighbourhood, Vedado very well, try to avoid the many new clusters of tour groups in habana vieja but will venture into tourist territory occasionally so I am well-versed in the changes occurring due to the impending arrival of millions of Americans.
This month, President Obama will visit Cuba and meet with President Castro.  The Rolling Stones will perform a few days after the president's stay.  Yes, Cuba is changing and I, along with millions of Cubans and Americans am bracing for the change.

I just returned from a two-week stay in Havana.  Unfortunately, I was ill with the "Havana winter virus" for three days.  I am told that the illness spreads across the city due to the changeable weather.  In my social circle, everyone was sick with varying degrees of intensity and symptoms.  I passed the time reading books, magazine articles and eventually trading my bed for my outdoor room - the terrance of my apartment that overlooks La Rampa (Calle 23) and the sea.  I have not been able to book a room at my regular hotel, Hotel Presidente during my last two visits due to the influx of tourists.  Instead, my friend Karen introduced me to her former landlords and friends, Aldo and Vanessa Pena who rented their newly acquired apartment located at 23 and I in Vedado.

This apartment is beautiful and centrally located.  Everything I need is a short walk away and the view is breathtaking.  I love staring at the water as well as the street activity during the day.  At night, the lights of Vedado blend into the starry sky while Habaneros and tourists fill the streets as well as the many neighbourhood restaurants.  Once again, there were more new restaurants to try in my neighbourhood and a few downtown that I was unable to try.

My new apartment
As I mentioned, my new apartment is ideally located at 23 and I.  It is three blocks from the Habana Libre Hotel, a few more blocks from Hotel National, The Capri Hotel, and the Fosca building where there are many shops including a grocery store.  There are many restaurants, bakeries, movie theatres, craft markets, and new little clothing stores all along 23 as well as a store, with a girl sitting at the street entrance on a stool selling internet cards.  Why?  Because there are internet hot spots all over the city now with one of the largest near Habana Libre hotel.

The apartment is quite large.  It has two bedrooms (both with air conditioners), two bathrooms, a large and well-equipped kitchen, a roomy living room with new furniture and a TV (which is never used by me), and the terrace which has been furnished with new furniture and gorgeous wrought iron rocking chairs.  My friends and I spend all of our time on the terrace sharing drinks, enjoying the view, and observing the changes occurring in the city.

A new air of prosperity for some Cubans is definitely present.  It is about time, but as I have often observed here in Havana, two steps forward and one step back seems to be the norm.