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Each new place I travel to holds a special place in my heart and soul that frequently calls on me to return through vivid memories. Havana, Cuba is one such place that emotes expressions of both vitality and desperation. I was torn between images of swaying palm trees and crashing waves of blue water beneath a warm, full sun and abject poverty among ruinous buildings that once held such promise and bewitching beauty. Havana is a Santerian priestess that captures one in her spell making one believe that all is well if music, magic, and warm breezes prevail. Let's just say that Cubans are poor but rich in spirit. They are kind, friendly and make the most of their lot in life. Granted, they have excellent free health care, daycare, and education but they live in buildings that look as though they have survived the Blitzkrieg. Many still live in shelters after the last hurricane; yet, no one is dirty or homeless. They are buoyed by supportive families, friends, intellectual discussions and artistic pursuits.
When I first arrived in Havana, I was struck by the poverty. I was uncomfortable knowing that I was staying in a five star hotel in Centro Habana while many Cubans live in small apartments that are shared with three generations of family members. I was accosted often by bicycle taxi drivers and locals who can spot a tourist a mile away. I have always been proud of the fact that I can blend in with the locals when I travel, but it is difficult for a white, middle-class person to blend in Cuba. The common intrusive remark by Cubans is, "Where you from?" If you respond that you are from Canada (which I did), they all seem to know someone who lives in Toronto, Montreal or Vancouver. I tried not to be rude, and politely declined their offers of assistance with a short response in Spanish. Occasionally, I was not as aggressive and succumbed to the charms of determined female docents who insisted on giving us tours of restricted areas of buildings that were worth the visit but not the hassle. Once the short tour ends, these lovely women will request "a gift". I obliged willingly because I knew how badly they needed the money.
The weather was hot and gorgeous every day. Jerry and I walked around neighborhoods with varied architecture and flavor: Centro Habana, La Habana Vieja, Miramar and Vedado. Centro Habana is home to most of the government buildings and its capitol building is modeled after the American Capitol. The largest cigar factory is also located in this neighborhood and is worth a visit. Our tour guide was candid about his feelings regarding Cuba and Castro so the tour was worthwhile on a number of levels. The grand Old Opera House is in need of repair but is still beautiful and still presents classical music concerts.
There are many gorgeous hotels that cater to tourists (Cubans can now stay in these hotels but few can afford them).
La Habana Vieja has the oldest buildings and the best restaurants and shops. The main shopping street is Obispo which is a pedestrian-only street that caters to both tourists and locals. The art studios are not open on Mondays but keep looking every day in this area and you will see different little studios open at various times on Obispo, Cuba and every side street that runs off of Obispo. Cuban art is spectacular and inexpensive. I bought some beautiful art from a young painter on Cuba and from an environmental sculptor on Obispo who just happened to have his door slightly open and waved Jerry and I in. His main pieces are made for large open spaces in galleries and green spaces but he also had small pieces and painted ceramic plaques that we purchased for a mere $5.00 each. There are a lot of paintings of cars and copies of famous Cuban paintings so before you buy anything, visit the main national art gallery in this neighborhood (Palacio de Bellas Artes) so you are aware of the extraordinary art by well-known Cuban artists and are not purchasing copies. And, this gallery is a must! You will be blown away by the talent and this building.
Also, make sure you are in Havana on a Saturday because there is a great outdoor sale of art on the Prado in Centro Habana. We purchased some additional art from the street vendors and although some were willing to bargain, I prefer to pay full price because the Cubans need the money.
Very Important: You will need to purchase export certificates in order to leave with your paintings. We had tiny paintings that fit in our suitcases but the larger paintings needed to be carried separately onto the plane. The officers at the airports will ask for an EXPORT CERTIFICATE for these paintings (they did not search our suitcases for the smaller paintings). You can purchase the certificates at the government office across from Hotel Florida in Old Havana.
Music is everywhere in Havana and a evening stroll on Obispo into La Habana Vieja is a banquet of sound. Music pours into the streets from little restaurants and bars and each musician is extremely talented and could have a professional career elsewhere in the world. We had dinner one night in a little restaurant on Obispo that had a house band called Tradicion Habanera with a flautist named Belinda Guerra who is a mere 20 years old. She is sweet, beautiful and one of the best jazz flautists I have ever heard. I hope to bring her to North America because I think she is a great talent. We were fortunate enough to see a performance by Buenavista Social Club at Cafe Taberna. These performers are elderly but boy, they can still sing and dance.
A view of the Prado (above)
A view of Havana from our hotel (below)
When I first arrived in Havana, I was struck by the poverty. I was uncomfortable knowing that I was staying in a five star hotel in Centro Habana while many Cubans live in small apartments that are shared with three generations of family members. I was accosted often by bicycle taxi drivers and locals who can spot a tourist a mile away. I have always been proud of the fact that I can blend in with the locals when I travel, but it is difficult for a white, middle-class person to blend in Cuba. The common intrusive remark by Cubans is, "Where you from?" If you respond that you are from Canada (which I did), they all seem to know someone who lives in Toronto, Montreal or Vancouver. I tried not to be rude, and politely declined their offers of assistance with a short response in Spanish. Occasionally, I was not as aggressive and succumbed to the charms of determined female docents who insisted on giving us tours of restricted areas of buildings that were worth the visit but not the hassle. Once the short tour ends, these lovely women will request "a gift". I obliged willingly because I knew how badly they needed the money.
A taxi
The weather was hot and gorgeous every day. Jerry and I walked around neighborhoods with varied architecture and flavor: Centro Habana, La Habana Vieja, Miramar and Vedado. Centro Habana is home to most of the government buildings and its capitol building is modeled after the American Capitol. The largest cigar factory is also located in this neighborhood and is worth a visit. Our tour guide was candid about his feelings regarding Cuba and Castro so the tour was worthwhile on a number of levels. The grand Old Opera House is in need of repair but is still beautiful and still presents classical music concerts.
The Capitol (above)
The interior of the opera house (below)
There are many gorgeous hotels that cater to tourists (Cubans can now stay in these hotels but few can afford them).
The pool at Parque Centro
La Habana Vieja has the oldest buildings and the best restaurants and shops. The main shopping street is Obispo which is a pedestrian-only street that caters to both tourists and locals. The art studios are not open on Mondays but keep looking every day in this area and you will see different little studios open at various times on Obispo, Cuba and every side street that runs off of Obispo. Cuban art is spectacular and inexpensive. I bought some beautiful art from a young painter on Cuba and from an environmental sculptor on Obispo who just happened to have his door slightly open and waved Jerry and I in. His main pieces are made for large open spaces in galleries and green spaces but he also had small pieces and painted ceramic plaques that we purchased for a mere $5.00 each. There are a lot of paintings of cars and copies of famous Cuban paintings so before you buy anything, visit the main national art gallery in this neighborhood (Palacio de Bellas Artes) so you are aware of the extraordinary art by well-known Cuban artists and are not purchasing copies. And, this gallery is a must! You will be blown away by the talent and this building.
Also, make sure you are in Havana on a Saturday because there is a great outdoor sale of art on the Prado in Centro Habana. We purchased some additional art from the street vendors and although some were willing to bargain, I prefer to pay full price because the Cubans need the money.
Very Important: You will need to purchase export certificates in order to leave with your paintings. We had tiny paintings that fit in our suitcases but the larger paintings needed to be carried separately onto the plane. The officers at the airports will ask for an EXPORT CERTIFICATE for these paintings (they did not search our suitcases for the smaller paintings). You can purchase the certificates at the government office across from Hotel Florida in Old Havana.
Street art on the Prado
Music is everywhere in Havana and a evening stroll on Obispo into La Habana Vieja is a banquet of sound. Music pours into the streets from little restaurants and bars and each musician is extremely talented and could have a professional career elsewhere in the world. We had dinner one night in a little restaurant on Obispo that had a house band called Tradicion Habanera with a flautist named Belinda Guerra who is a mere 20 years old. She is sweet, beautiful and one of the best jazz flautists I have ever heard. I hope to bring her to North America because I think she is a great talent. We were fortunate enough to see a performance by Buenavista Social Club at Cafe Taberna. These performers are elderly but boy, they can still sing and dance.
Our lovely Belinda
Food: Jerry and I were prepared for bad food in Cuba because there is an absence of good ingredients in this poor country. Since we stayed at the five star Parque Centro in Centro Habana, we were fortunate enough to have an excellent European breakfast each morning. The staff is very accommodating and speak a number of languages. This is a good job for educated Cubans because they can make more money in a hotel than as a doctor. We found that the restaurants in this area did not have the best food but there are charming restaurants in La Habana Vieja that serve good fare and offer a lovely presentation on each plate. You can actually find tasty food on the street from take-out vendors that do not cost more than a couple of pesos. Most places will only take CUC's but if you have pesos, you can use them at these little places. In a couple of years, I predict that Cuba will develop more sophisticated cuisine based on their traditional foods that will rival their music and art.
Food vendor
Make a point of walking along the Malecon admiring the waterfront and the lovers who gather there in the evening to the Hotel National in Vedado. The hotel is a lovely old remnant of bygone days and the lunch menu is excellent and inexpensive.
Hotel National
Once you leave the main tourist areas, you will be able to stroll through some lovely neighborhoods without being accosted. The University of Habana is a beautiful campus and the old mansions that surround it are lovely if not a bit tired looking and in need of a bit of love. We took a tour of one mansion that has been restored and is open to the public. It was once owned by a very wealthy Cuban family and hosted international parties with such guests as the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. One can see the splendor and opulence of Cuba's past. Miramar is also a must and most of the mansions are now occupied by foreign embassies. It is not uncommon to see luxury cars in this area as well as a shopping area which has high-end stores such as Chanel. I was told by our tour guide at the cigar factory that Castro lives well. Yes folks, the premise of Animal Farm is alive and well in Cuba.
I plan on returning to Cuba and visit the city of Santiago in the southern part of the island. I am not a person who cares about resorts - the cities hold more appeal for me. Cuba is a gem that begs for TLC and I am eager to see what will happen to it once Castro hands in his pail.
Favorite Restaurants in Havana:
Cafe Lamarilla
across from Parque Guayasamin
Mercaderes and Lamparilla
La Mina
Plaza de armas at Obispo
Bosque Bologna
Obispo
The food is average but the band is great and you will hear the amazing Belinda the flautist.
Art:
On Saturday before 4PM, the Prado mall is filled with fantastic art. Unfortunately, we only received a card from the gifted photographer mentioned below. You will find gifted artists here who sell their work at very reasonable prices.
Roberto Carlos Medina Alonso - photographer
Desiderio Sarmiento Amaro - sculptor
located on Obispo
Desiderio designs and makes huge pieces for galleries and outdoor spaces. We were fortunate enough to notice his studio door ajar and he invited us in. He has smaller sculptures for sale in his studio along with twelve inch cubist designs painted on ceramic plaques for a mere $5. We bought two.
Yudiel Leon - painter
Although the city of Havana is filled with great talent, we discovered this artist working in his studio on a street called Cuba (north of Plaza de la Catedral). His work is extraordinary so I bought two of his painting. Total price? $100. I cannot wait to frame them and put them in the newly designed family room/kitchen.
Special Note: Cuba is an interesting street in Habana Vieja which is charming near the old city core but very seedy at the other end. Although there is heavy police presence in Havana, I would stay away from this end of Cuba.
Bathrooms:
You can easily find bathrooms in hotels and restaurants but make sure you pack a lot of Kleenex with you. There is a scarcity of toilet paper.
Markets:
You will find wonderful markets on Obispo, in La Habana Vieja, and on La Rampa. If you love musical instruments, you will find an abundance of percussion instruments and small Cuban guitars for a mere $57.00. The price of the guitars seems to be standard and set by the government since each store had the same price.
Travel Books:
The best book for travel in Cuba is Lonely Planet. However, we found some of the important points of interest in Eyewitness: Cuba.
Mansion that is now a museum
Visiting the area on Hammel (in the western art of central Havana a few blocks south of the Malecon) that is home to Santerian culture is an extraordinary experience. On Sunday mornings, you will see this colorful area come alive with Santerian music and dance. You will also notice goats grazing in nearby yards that may be strays (like the many dogs in La Habana Vieja) or may be owned by the Santerian priests. The music and style of dance is African-based and ritualistic.
Santerian culture
I plan on returning to Cuba and visit the city of Santiago in the southern part of the island. I am not a person who cares about resorts - the cities hold more appeal for me. Cuba is a gem that begs for TLC and I am eager to see what will happen to it once Castro hands in his pail.
Favorite Restaurants in Havana:
Cafe Lamarilla
across from Parque Guayasamin
Mercaderes and Lamparilla
La Mina
Plaza de armas at Obispo
Bosque Bologna
Obispo
The food is average but the band is great and you will hear the amazing Belinda the flautist.
Art:
On Saturday before 4PM, the Prado mall is filled with fantastic art. Unfortunately, we only received a card from the gifted photographer mentioned below. You will find gifted artists here who sell their work at very reasonable prices.
Roberto Carlos Medina Alonso - photographer
Desiderio Sarmiento Amaro - sculptor
located on Obispo
Desiderio designs and makes huge pieces for galleries and outdoor spaces. We were fortunate enough to notice his studio door ajar and he invited us in. He has smaller sculptures for sale in his studio along with twelve inch cubist designs painted on ceramic plaques for a mere $5. We bought two.
Yudiel Leon - painter
Although the city of Havana is filled with great talent, we discovered this artist working in his studio on a street called Cuba (north of Plaza de la Catedral). His work is extraordinary so I bought two of his painting. Total price? $100. I cannot wait to frame them and put them in the newly designed family room/kitchen.
Special Note: Cuba is an interesting street in Habana Vieja which is charming near the old city core but very seedy at the other end. Although there is heavy police presence in Havana, I would stay away from this end of Cuba.
Bathrooms:
You can easily find bathrooms in hotels and restaurants but make sure you pack a lot of Kleenex with you. There is a scarcity of toilet paper.
Markets:
You will find wonderful markets on Obispo, in La Habana Vieja, and on La Rampa. If you love musical instruments, you will find an abundance of percussion instruments and small Cuban guitars for a mere $57.00. The price of the guitars seems to be standard and set by the government since each store had the same price.
Travel Books:
The best book for travel in Cuba is Lonely Planet. However, we found some of the important points of interest in Eyewitness: Cuba.
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