Pam and Carol's Excellent Adventure in Havana

Ramses, me, Omilay

Well comrades, this was indeed a very excellent adventure sprinkled with a real Cuban experience.  The doctor had a smooth transition into Cuba the last two times we visited but this time he chose not to go so Carol, my friend and colleague from work was my travel partner.
As one may expect, Havana is bloody hot in July.  I have a rather high tolerance for heat and extreme sweating and can still walk farther than most humans under these conditions.  But I have to say that Carol was a trooper with her very WASP skin and low tolerance for such extreme heat.  I took more cabs this time since no one but the doctor can keep up with me but since we rode in cabs designated for Cubans, it didn't cost us very much.  Now let me explain why this could have been a disaster trip but was saved by the kindness of our new Cuban friends.

Casa Particulars

Casa Particulars are homes with space for travellers and shared with Cuban owners.  One can rent an apartment, a shared space, or an entire house if one so desires.  I decided that since I have had the hotel experience in Havana, I would now try a casa.  For me, I would prefer to stay in Miramar or Vedado, but since it was Carol's first time in Cuba, I thought we should stay in the centre of town so she could see all of the UNESCO heritage sites.

I searched the net and contacted a number of companies that seemed reputable and finally settled on cuba-particular.com.  I dealt with a man by the name of Felix who arranged our stay.  The photos of the apartment looked very nice and I was assured of the following:  taxi pick-up and drop-off at the airport, English speaking hostess, a balcony with a  sea view, beverages awaiting our arrival, two full bedrooms with adjoining bathrooms, and a hairdryer so I wouldn't have to shlep mine across the ocean.

Once we were through customs in Havana, we were greeted by Aleida and Vladimir.  Vladimir was our driver and his wife Aleida chose to come along for the ride - fate was on our side.  They are the sweetest and most caring people on the planet.  Aleida spent some of her formative years in Canada and spoke English perfectly.  She works for a Canadian company in Havana and was well-versed in Canadiana.  How lucky can one Canuck be?  Once we arrived at the casa, I did not like the look of the area.  The apartment was lovely and clean but there was a problem, actually many problems - the list above was not fulfilled.  There was only one bedroom, the hostess Maria did not speak English (and my Spanish is not good enough to explain my displeasure), the drinks we ordered were given to other guests and we could not even get a glass of water, and although there was a view of the sea, there was no balcony.  I didn't even bother to ask about the hairdryer.  

I spoke with Felix and informed him of my displeasure with this whole experience and that he was not truthful with me.  He said that there would be two bedrooms in the morning and that Carol and I would have to share a room tonight.  NOT HAPPENING!  Thank goodness Aleida had left her cell phone number with me and I called her immediately and explained the situation.  I asked her to find us rooms at the Riviera Hotel since it is clean and inexpensive.  Once she had secured lodging for us, she and Vladimir picked us up and took us to the Riviera.  She escorted us in and spoke with the desk clerk who assured us that we could check again in the morning for available rooms.  Well, we were able to stay at the Riviera all week and loved it.  Bottom line:  DO NOT USE THIS CASA SITE. 

Riviera Hotel

I love this hotel.  Sure the rugs are worn but the rooms are clean and have an outstanding view of the sea.  The hotel has not changed at all since gangster Meyer Lansky had it built in 1956.  The colourful Orb which is visible outside was once the casino.  I assume there is still an entrance into this but I didn't ask.  Our cost was 44.00 CUC a night and the rooms were clean with marble bathrooms.  Don't expect much from the free breakfast in the morning.  There is a lot of food but most of it is not very good.  The ready-to-order omelettes are good and the hotcakes are edible.  Occasionally the bread is fresh and the fruit is firm but it's free and it's Cuba so don't sweat the small stuff.  The staff is very friendly and accommodating and the hotel is so funky that I can overlook last week's black beans for breakfast.

There is a large salt water pool and guests can invite friends to join them at the pool for  the day for a mere 15.00 CUC.  This includes lunch.  You will have to supply your room towels for your guests but this was a great way to treat our Cuban friends who also need an escape from the heat.

Ramses and Omilay at the Riviera Hotel pool.

The location of this hotel is perfect.  One can walk along the Malecon and find jazz clubs next door,  outdoor restaurants or outstanding restaurants about 20 minutes away (by foot).   The cab ride downtown is only 5.00 CUC or a fraction of that if you are fortunate enough to ride with Cuban friends in the fifties vintage cars.

If you are not a person who invites multiculturalism, this hotel is not for you.  You will be the only Yumas in the hotel.  All of the guests are from Mexico and South America which also means you will be the only woman at the pool in a one-piece suit who actually takes off her jewelry and swims lengths instead of making out with a boyfriend.  If I weren't menopausal, I may have been in danger of pregnancy from all of the activity going on under the water.

Bed Art

You cannot simply apply to be a maid in Cuba.  Oh, no!  I didn't realize this until Humberto informed me that one cannot just be a maid in Cuba.  One must attend maid training at Hotel Sevilla in La Habana Centrale.  There, one will train in all aspects of maidery (I just made that up) including bed art.  Yes folks, the Cubans are the most creative people on the planet and this extends to bed art.  What is bed art, you ask?  Well, your towels, bedding, room accoutrements, even your clothing can and will be used in bed art.  This is designed to wow you and increase the tips.  I mean, come on, how can you not leave at least one CUC when your bed has been turned into a masterpiece?  Here is an example of outstanding bed art:

bed art with my fedora

The only problem with bed art is that one must remake their bed every night because the bedding has been used to create Señor and Señora swans. I must say though, the photo above captures the most outstanding bed art I have encountered in Cuba thus far.  She wins maid of the year!

Banks and Cadecas

Another part of the Cuban experience is dealing with the constant change in rules and regulations that seem to happen on a whim.  Since I was just in Cuba in March, I didn't think that changing money would be a problem.  In the past, we simply went to the cadeca in the hotel lobby and changed our money.  End!  No, no, no folks - this is Cuba and as my friend Humberto says, "it's crazy".  Well, changing money and getting money off of my credit card was an all-day fiasco that ate into a planned outing with Humberto, his wife Yanaisa, and daughter Jennifer.  Many of the cadecas in the hotels are now closed or will only exchange funds for guests of that particular hotel.  Some of the banks would not comply if you did not have a visa even though Canada does not issue visas.  Some bank machines would not take any of our cards.  Needless to say, I was near tears and was ruining an otherwise lovely day with friends.  Finally, I found a bank on Obispo that would exchange Canadian money AND take money from my Mastercard (the reason I list the type of card is that this card is NOT the credit card of choice in Cuban banks).  I took out more than I needed so I wouldn't have to deal with this again.  

Thanks Fidel and Raul - another bonehead move.  This really encourages tourist dollars that help to rebuild this poor country (insert sarcasm here).

Here is the location of the bank that you must use:

257 Calle Obispo

The many uses for bananas and coconuts

Is there anything the Cubans cannot do?  When one is deprived of worldly goods, creativity kicks in and delightful creations emerge (bed art?).  It is an understatement to say that I love bananas and coconuts and to find various ways to prepare them is manna from heaven for this maven.  I had coconut ice cream served in a coconut shell, I drank coconut milk out of a coconut shell that had been opened with a machete.

Opening coconut with machete.

I even had home made pina coladas made by Omilay at a dinner in her boyfriend Ramses' apartment. Yum and double Yum.

This same ingenuity extends to bananas.  What I didn't realize is that there are different varieties of bananas and coconuts and each is used for a wide array of delicacies.  Omilay fried soft bananas and hard bananas for chips.  Each was delicious.  Here are Omilay and Ramses with the delicious Cuban feast.

Omilay told me how to make Pina Coladas from scratch and I will attempt it next week.  Of course, my tasteless Canadian ingredients will not have the flavour or punch of real Cuban fruit and sugar but such is life.  Here is Omilay's recipe for the main ingredients of the Pina Colada base:

Fresh coconut

One cup of sugar

vanilla

water (not much)

Cook over the stove until the mixture thickens.  Add more water if it is too thick.  Once it is fully cooked, remove from the stove and let cool.  Place a bit of this mixture into a blender with fresh coconut milk, pineapple juice, and rum.  (She may have used ice since it was cold).  Pour into individual glasses and sprinkle fresh cinnamon on top.  

We had Pina Coladas on the terrace of the Hotel National one day and not only were they expensive but didn't compare with Omilay's homemade concoctions.  I have never tasted anything so delicious other than her meal which included flan for dessert.  This meal was so extraordinary that I told her she should open her own restaurant.  Brava my little dragonfly!  BTW:  I will never complain about the size of my kitchen ever again after witnessing how Omilay can create such a lovely meal in a kitchen the size of a closet.  What a girl!

Conner Gorry is a bloody genius and her app is a must!

I discovered Conner by accident.  I was attempting to learn more about Cuba and stumbled across a great online magazine called, Cuba Absolutely.  While reading this mag, I saw an advertisement in the sidebar for Conner's blog: http://hereishavana.wordpress.com.  Conner is a New Yorker who married a Cuban and chooses to live in Havana.  She is a travel writer and writes for Lonely Planet as well as other travel books.  Not only are her insights interesting and informative, she has developed an app for Havana called Havana Good Time that quickly became my best friend while visiting last week.  This app lists restaurants, casa particulars (wish I had this app before I booked my ill-fated casa), museums, bars, music, and the list goes on and on.  All of her recommendations are spot on and the best part?  It works without internet AND each recommendation has photos and an interactive map with a GPS blue bouncing ball that led us to all of our destinations.  I LOVE CONNER GORRY and you will too if you have this app.

Restaurants recommended by Conner that are amazing.

Since we were now staying in Vedado, we needed restaurants that were close by and in walking distance.  With our handy-dandy app, we discovered a number of good places to eat that were within our budget.

La Fuente
Calle 13 between Calles F & G
This little outdoor boîte is cosy and an easy walk from the Riviera.  The food is great, portions large and service is friendly and quick.  We ate here twice, once with Ramses and Omilay.  Omilay loves the food here and her criteria is not only based on taste - the large portions fill a tiny girl who most likely eats once a day.  We took our Cuban kids to another fav of mine downtown but since I don't gauge my star recommendations on quantity, Omilay did not like this place due to the smallish portions.  I can certainly understand why Cubans would have a different Zagat rating than North Americans who don't eat at McDonald's.
Le Chansonnier
Calle J #257 between Linea and 15
Where do I begin touting the overall excellence of this restaurant?  For those who still believe you cannot get a good meal in Cuba, think again.  This restaurant could compete with any high end establishment in any major city.  Let me begin with the decor.
Once you approach this beautiful old home, you assume by the tired exterior that it will not be anything special inside but get ready to be fooled.  Owners Hector and Carlos and partner Laura (an interior designer) have created a breathtaking space within the bones of a stunning beaux arts home.  This home belongs to Hector's family and he chose to open a paladar on the ground floor of it.  The high ceilings, marble columns, stunning chandeliers and gorgeous windows set the stage for great art and furniture by Cuban artists.  All of the furniture has been made by a local artisan and the paintings have been carefully selected by top Cuban artists to enhance the overall experience before one even tastes the heavenly food. The  piece de resistance is the back wall that houses the washrooms (which are more modern than 5 star Hotel Parque Centrale).  A local metal sculptor, assisted by Carlos created a environmental piece on the back wall using scrap metal.  The colours, textures, and placement of each piece was meticulously selected by the artist.  The final result which took a month to create is the perfect complement to this extraordinary space.
Now the food:  Once one has absorbed the beauty of this space, the next phase begins with the exciting menu that is fusion French/Cuban.  The owners also have another restaurant in Paris of the same name (10th arrondissement); hence, the combination of ingredients and flavours.  I am aware that it is very difficult to obtain fresh ingredients in Cuba so I have no idea how they find such beautiful, fresh food, but who cares?  Every dish is a work of art from execution to final mouthful.  Rachel Ray would definitely rate this restaurant a triple Yum.
We visited this restaurant twice and took our other Cuban friends, Humberto, Yanaisa, and 13 year old Jennifer (the best behaved child on the planet) here on our last night.  I reserved the private dining room for us and my darling friends were treated like royalty by the waiter and Hector.  Humberto and his family do not normally eat in places such as this and I was delighted to have the opportunity to treat them to something so perfectly wonderful in their own city.  Here are a couple of dark photos of the back wall metal installation and the main dining room.  My photos do not do justice to this beautiful
space.

Main dining room

Spicy duck

Final parting words

Well, all good things must come to an end and Carol and I had to say Adios to Havana.  We summed up our few misfortunes by saying, "it's all part of the Cuban experience" followed by a Cristal on the breezy patio of our hotel while gazing out at the sea.  I look forward to my next Havana adventure and visiting with my friends.

Ramses, Carol, Omilay

I was fortunate enough to see how Cubans live by visiting both Ramses in his apartment and Omilay's family in their lovely home which is surrounded by guava trees.  The Cubans do struggle but are so accustomed to this way of life that it is just a normal part of each day in Cuba.
Ramses used to live with his grandmother in a lovely neighbourhood in Vedado.  Since his parents, (like many Cuban families), live in other countries, he resided with his grandmother in her large home which also served as a casa particular.  Once she died and he could not afford the license to run the casa particular, the government took his home and left him homeless.  He has forged a good life for himself in his tiny but sweet little apartment in La Habana Vieja but how does one reconcile their misfortune when their government takes rather than provides?  Tourist dollars are flooding the country and this money is renovating many dilapidated buildings but most homes are still very unsafe.  This year alone, there have been 45 deaths in Havana due to unsafe housing conditions.
If each Canadian supported one Cuban or Cuban family by paying a cell phone bill or setting up a bank account and sending money, or helping to network for employment, more Cubans could live a decent life.  However, the downside of this is there are some Cubans who are supported by relatives overseas and choose not to work.
My friends Humberto and Yanaisa are outstanding parents.  Can you imagine how much it hurts them to see Jennifer leave for school without breakfast?  Most evenings, the only meal Yanaisa can make for her family consists of rice and beans and when the beans run out, rice is the only option.
When I see the faces of this beautiful, hardworking family, I wish there was more I could do for them.  One can only hope that the future for Cubans will be good and Jennifer will have all of the options available to Canadians girls her age.  I wish prosperity and long life to my beloved Cubans.

Humberto, Jennifer, Yanaisa