Winter Wonderland in Paris

Grand Palais

The doctor and I had not visited Paris in 6 years.  We missed it terribly but decided to explore other countries before returning.  Yet, we continually echoed each other's sentiments as we sighed and pondered an evening stroll through charming streets filled with cafes and beautifully appointed boutique windows.
 In October, the son called and said that he was going to Buenos Aires, Argentina for Christmas to meet his girlfriend's family.  While I normally would encourage such travel I was saddened by the thought that I would not have my son with me during the Christmas holidays for the first time since he was born.  After spending time feeling sorry for myself, the doctor mentioned that Christmas in Paris would be just the remedy for a broken heart.  While nothing could replace spending the holiday with family, I relented and agreed to spend two weeks in Paris.

le Printemps

This would be our 4th trip to the City of Lights.  We have never stayed in a Parisian hotel even though many are oozing with charm.  We love the idea of feeling part of a neighborhood and local colour so we rent apartments in  neighborhoods that appeal to us.  The last apartment was in St. Germain des Pres.  This arrondissement is gorgeous but the apartment was not.  It was clean and acceptable but definitely not attractive.  The hunt was on for something new and the doctor found a charming place in the Marais, another favorite neighborhood.  Now one can say that every neighborhood has its charm and this is true but the Marais is such a diverse and trendy area.  One can see young Orthodox Jewish boys promoting Chabad in front of a small, unmarked synagogue on Sunday, lively gay bars, young French hipsters engaging in deep conversation in local boîtes, and tourists from around the globe.  The diverse nature of this neighbourhood is very appealing to my traveler's heart and I felt very much at home in this medieval neighbourhood.
We arrived late in the day on December 23rd.  After unpacking and visiting the local Monoprix for groceries, we embarked on an evening stroll to Hotel de Ville (city hall).  This beautifully appointed building was sparkling with festive lights which added to the holiday spirit of the skaters who were enjoying the ice rink across the street.  It was such a treat to watch the Parisians skating to cheesy eighties music on this warm winter evening.
We continued our stroll to St. Germain des Pres which had a beautiful Christmas market, one of many during the Christmas holiday in Paris.  The temporary outdoor shops sell a variety of goods:  clothing, jewelry, toys, decorations, and food.  We found one vendor selling nougat.  Now when I think of nougat, I think of hard candy that borders on stale. But in the markets, this nougat is a soft, sugary delight that is highly addictive.  I ate most of it on the way home even though eating on the street in Paris is a no no unless you are eating near a booth selling take away food.

Christmas Market

Before returning to our new Parisian home, we stopped in Notre Dame and observed an evening service.  It was so beautiful and certainly put me in the Christmas spirit.

I was dreading Christmas Eve without the son and woke up feeling sad and missing family.  I chose to ignore my yearning for home and hearth and followed the doctor for a day of window shopping in the City of Lights.  Parisian department stores Gallerie Lafayette and le Printemps' windows were a Christmas delight.  Families crowded around the windows to catch a glimpse of luxury goods adorned with dancing figures and mechanical animals.  These windows brought back such fond memories of my childhood in downtown Rochester during the holidays.  The interior of Gallerie Lafayette was equally beautiful with a giant tree decorated with Swarovski crystals that reached the stained glass roof of the store.

Christmas tree in Gallerie Lafayette

After a lovely stroll along St. Martin, we met our New York friends the Zbars for dinner at a quaint little bistro called Le Mesturet.  The Zbars have been visiting Paris since their childhoods and have family in the city.  They suggested many places for us to visit that are unfamiliar to those of us who do not have the privilege of French citizenship.
Since I was still missing home and family, the doctor and I chose to end the evening with a midnight service at the 12th century cathedral near our apartment.  It was a delight to hear carols sung in French.

Christmas Day was very quiet so we decided to explore the Marais with its funky little stores and charming restaurants.  We chose a little neighborhood bistro called Camille and were not disappointed.  The food was excellent and it was a great opportunity for us to practice our French.

New Year's Eve in Paris is simply magical.  We met our friends the Zbars at the Hotel Regina where they have stayed for many years.  We shared cocktails and hors d'oeuvres in one of the beautifully decorated main rooms with the owner of the hotel.  She was a delightful woman who inherited the hotel from her father.  We walked across the bridge to the Left Bank and had dinner at Chez Domonet which was a perfect spot to celebrate the new year.  However, we decided to make our New Year's Eve toast in the Zbar's hotel suite that faced the Eiffel Tower which would be lit at midnight.  But midnight did not wait for our return to the hotel. As we walked across the bridge which spans the width of the Seine River, the Eiffel Tower sparkled like a diamond as people cheered, horns beeped, and kissing commenced.  I had forgotten about the drizzling rain as I looked around feeling the love of Paris wrapping its beautiful arms around me.

Lloyd and Margo Zbar, Doctor and me

Since it is unnecessary to describe each day of our trip, I will list the must things to do in Paris and if your are there during the Christmas holidays.  Some of these tips are from Maven Margo Zbar and her Parisian family.

Restaurants:

Marais:  make sure to try the falafel and Jewish delecacies in the Marais.  Remember, this is an Orthodox Jewish neighborhood so don't expect any of the Orthodox shops to be be open during Shabbat (Friday night until Saturday at sundown)

Le Mesturet
77 rue de Richelieu

Camille
corner of rue Elzévir and rue des Francs-Bourgeois

LeChannsonier
14 Rue Eugène Varlin

Chez Dumonet (outstanding place to spend New Year's Eve)
117, rue du Cherche-Midi

Must see:
When visiting Montmarte, walk down the hill to the non-touristy part of town.  This area is really nice and the shops and restaurants cater to a local crowd rather than the tourists who seem to favor the area on the hill.

Jewish Tour:
With so much anti-semitism in France, I was surprised to see so many synagogues in the city.  We explored the Marais and found many unmarked shuls.  One evening during Shabbat, we discovered the Great Synagogue of Paris on 44 Rue de la Victoire.  The service was ending but they still let us in so we could see how magnificient this shul is.
One must visit Belleville which is home to the Edith Piaf museum and is now inhabited by young hipsters, blue collar Parisians, Muslims, and Tunisian Jews.  There is a market which ends in the early afternoon but I will definitely return for it one day.  This market stretches along the center of the main boulevard rue Belleville and is filled with Middle Eastern delights.  On one side of the street, the shops are owned by Muslims and the other side of the street is occupied by Tunisian Jews.  One of the Tunisian cafes had live Middle Eastern music for the patrons.

Chabad boys

plaque recognizing the children
murdered at this school
by the Nazis.

One of the most important things to notice regarding Parisian Jewish history is the recognition of the Vichy involvement in the Holocaust.  This is very recent and is commemorated with signage on schools, homes and various buildings throughout Paris.
The Jewish Museum must be visited but reading the signs on schools where hundreds of Jewish children and teachers were rounded up and taken to death camps are a constant reminder of the cruelty of the Vichy government and its collaboration with the Nazis.

school where Jewish children were rounded up
and murdered by the Nazis.

Don't bother:
The consignment shops are worth a look but do not offer any bargains.  I was looking for a Chanel bag and there are many in these shops but they are not much less than a new bag.

Must do:

Purchase a Navigo subway pass.  It will save you a great deal of money and you can continue to use it any time you visit Paris.  http://parisbytrain.com/paris-train-metro-week-pass-navigo-decouverte/

Take a ride on one of the boats that tour the Seine.  During the winter months, one can remain warm inside the boat while observing this beautiful city by water.
After touring the Louvre, walk next door to the Museum of Decorative Arts.  This is often overlooked in favor of the Louvre but is equally impressive.

There are two museums that seem to be a well-kept secret of the French.  These former mansions of wealthy Parisians in the Haussman area are frequented by French citizens.  Maven Margo told us about them and they were definitely worth the visit.
Museé Jacquement-André
Museé de Nissam Camondo

Musee Jacquement-Andre

Clignancourt Marché
A visit to this market is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon.  It is huge and requires more than one visit.  However, there are no bargains here but occasionally you may find something reasonable if you look hard enough.

One of the many stores at Clignancourt Marche

There are many vintage clothing stores in Paris.  Some of the best ones are located in the Marais, Les Halles, and Clignancourt.  Many of the shops carry vintage fur coats, hats, and muffs.  I now wish that I had purchased some of the coats because they were very reasonable and in good shape.

Modus Gallery
23 Place des Vosges
This is a fabulous gallery that carries some of the best pieces by new artists.  My favorite New York artist, TMNK exhibits his work here and the prices of his work is much more than I paid for my original TMNK.  So glad to see that he is recognized and doing well.

La Métmorphose des Matériaux
48 rue Vieille du Temple
This exhibit was extraordinary and featured artists who work with metal.  If it is on again in Paris, definitely go and see it.

Bon Marché
This department store in on par with Gallerie Lafayette and Printemps but what makes it unique is the food market on the main floor.  You will find every type of gourmet food and Parisian baked goods that rival the best patisseries in Paris.  The take away meals are varied and fresh.  Don't leave without buying something.

rue Montaigne
I assumed that rue Honore was the most fashionable street in Paris with its many high-end clothing stores but I was wrong.  One evening, we stumbled upon rue Montaigne which is near the Champs Elysees.  This street is lined with designer stores and the stunning Hotel Plaza Atheneé.  It is so beautiful and worth an evening stroll.

Costes
239 rue Saint-Honoré near Place Vendrome
This is the swankiest hotel and bar in Paris.  All of the chicest people gather in this bar but the design of the hotel is out of this world.  Walk through and pretend you belong.  You won't regret it.

Christmas markets
If you are fortunate enough to be in Paris during the Christmas holidays, you will find many Christmas markets in various areas around the city.  Some of the markets are small but equally delightful.  The smaller ones are located in Montmarte, Gard du Nord and the larger ones are in St. Germain des Pres and the Champs Elysees.  The latter is huge and stretches along both sides of this street finishing at the Arch de Triumph.  There are whimsical lighting displays everywhere and the shops sell a variety of goods.  This market also has the most innovative skating rink I have ever seen.  It is a small road that leads skaters around the market through displays of mechanical animals and wintery scenes.

Christmas decorations at the market on the Champs Elysees

Versailles
We were told that Paris was busier this year than ever before.  This was obvious to us as we attempted to navigate our way through crowded streets and markets.  But the busiest place was The Palace of Versailles which is located in the city of Versailles about 40 minutes outside the city of Paris.  We had purchased advance tickets but this did not offer us any VIP status once we arrived.  The lines were long and the wait to enter the palace was two hours.  We chose to stroll the grounds instead and visit the smaller homes of Marie Antoinette,  the Petite Trianon and Grand Trianon which were extraordinary.  I was upset that we did not see the main palace but this gives me incentive to visit Paris again.

Grand Trianon

Although I was initially saddened by the absence of family during the holiday season, I was happy to spend the time in Paris.  It will always remain one of my favourite cities and its beauty never grows old and tiresome.  I look forward to visiting again and discovering more of the stunning architecture and delightful little boutiques and boîtes.

French Bulldogs are the dog of choice in Paris